Maine Event

We had chosen Mt Desert to leap into our Maine cruising schedule.  The area is considered “quintessential” Maine.  Acadia National Park covers much of the island and elsewhere, stately homes owned by the likes of Martha Stewart, sit in stands of pines along rocky granite bays - inspiration to wordsmiths, artists and even left-brainers.

Acadia National Park, Mt Desert Island

Mt Desert’s wild beauty has always attracted the wealthy; the Astors, Fords, Carnegies, Rockefellers and Vanderbilts were among those who retreated to their summer “cottages” to partake of Maine’s cool air, pristine hiking trails and chilly waters.  Mt Desert’s first recorded sighting by Europeans was as early as 1524 and Samuel de Champlain formally named the island in 1604; it was part of “New France”.  The island’s interests were then held by the French for many years until after the Revolutionary War.  Preservation came much later but under the leadership of George B Dorr who, inspired by Mt Desert’s rugged beauty, encouraged land and financial donations to preserve it.  In 1916, 6000 acres became a designated national park.  Artists, naturalists, campers and rusticators (summer people) made the island a fashionable retreat until a devastating fire in 1947 consumed many homes and much of the woodlands.  The park, long since recovered, has some 35,000 acres to explore, including smaller islands off the coast.  Cars can traverse some of the roads and byways, but it’s much better to take a horse & carriage or ride the LL Bean eco-buses (gas powered).

Bar Harbor

The Motleys had already covered one of Mt Desert’s famed harbours, Southwest, and now sailed Somes Sound in search of shelter.  After Earl’s terrible tantrum, we spent a few pleasant days – true gunkholing – watching bald eagles fly, kayakers paddle about nooks & crannies, gorgeous sunsets and people swim (including our Cap’n but he is a Victorian) in the oh, so clean waters.  Then it was on to Northeast Harbor to pick up a mooring ball.  This harbour too was pretty; we were tempted to stay a few days.  The village and its conveniences were only a step away, including a fabulous library (with free wifi & a fireplace) and an island explorer bus stop.

We stepped aboard to take the scenic loop road – 27 miles past Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan & Bubble Ponds and Cadillac Mountain.  We didn’t hike on account of GS’s still recovering ankle but the drive was nice.  Bar Harbor retains its quaint village atmosphere despite the influx of tourists (millions), including glamorous passenger ships nearly every other day in season.  You could tell the difference between cruisers and cruisers.  We had that windswept, clothes more than 3 days old, unshaved look…  GS poked around in touristy shops and even found a quilt shop to buy a few Maine themed prints – moose, bears, eagles, pinecones etc.  There’s a zoo close by with the real thing (moose, bears etc) in Trenton across from Mt Desert, but we had come to our “turnaround” time.

Northeast Harbor

One of the joys of sailing is catching up, often unexpectedly, with friends you meet along the way.  “Cricket” (home to Pam, Ben & lovely Lila) had also spent some time in Deltaville Boatyard.  They set sail a little earlier in the season, so it was fun to catch up and compare ports of call and sights seen.  They were on their way to Rockport to have some electrical work done before heading back down to the Chesapeake – maybe.  See you on the water!

From: Somes Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 21N  68 19W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1130
To: Northeast Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 17N  68 16W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1330
Time Taken: 7nm (2hrs)  Distance (this year): 825nm (157.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4465nm (856.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: See Note**
Weather: Winds SW 10-15kts G20kts; Seas 1-3ft; a bit of a slop on the Sound
(** Motored back down Somes Sound (into the sun) dodging lobster pots!)

Hope Floats

26th June 2010

Watermelon Summer

Hope Floats……. And so does WJ3!  Ya’all be pleased ta know that WJ3 has splashed.  She is now in a pen at Deltaville Marina for a month.  Yesssireee bob, we’ve moved a grand total of 400 metres – most of it by travel lift.

Well, I know you’re curious.  Remember the planned 2 week "working on the boat and it will all be done before madam arrives” thing?  Well it all fell in a heap beginning with the 2 weeks home alone and continues still, even after 6 weeks of working on the hard in Virginia’s impossible summer heat.  We’re now enjoying daily heatwave conditions varying between 99 to 100F’s mixed up with the odd 104F (40C) days for good measure.  Did I mention the humidity?

Hey!  That's my spot!

Work and modifications continued in sauna conditions up in the yard until “we” made a decision that life would be a wee bit better afloat.  You know – mod cons like refrigeration, aircon (so we can sleep at night), a bath house and even a swimming pool a mere 10 steps away.  Sign me up!  The Cap’n continues with his to-do list and has added a few unplanned extras like solar panels in prep for the big crossing next year.  Why not, indeed?  Things are cheaper, easier to access and we have professionals close at hand if it all turns to you-know-what.  The First Mate continues to direct traffic from either the pool or the air conditioned sailor’s lounge. As you would expect!

Prime Position at Deltaville Marina

We are now into week 2 of our 4 week stay at the marina and WJ3‘s engine is in bits – a major service is underway and the cheque book is in need of a little defibrillation!  Our float plan is also in need of a facelift as summer (in the north) is fading quickly.  Watch this space – we may get as far as Reedville this year!  (Reedville is on the other side of the Rappahannock River – about 30nm or an afternoon’s sail away). 

Yes, it's not a blue moon

It’s just that Windjammer seems to really like it here.   And she wants to stay…

Fallin' for Chesapeake

Norfolk to Yorktown: 9 Sep 09 

On Guard Duty at the Fort

This cold snap continued; 1st September marks the start of Fall (Autumn) so perhaps it’s really here to stay.  Nice not to be sweating day and night for a change…

Cottage Garden in the Fort, Yorktown

The weather cleared (a very little) so Cap’n Restless declares his intent to move on.  Rugged up in wet weather gear and jumpers, the Motleys made for Chesapeake Bay; dodging war ships, aircraft carriers, tug boats and tows down to the mouth of the Elizabeth River.  Looking back, even from more than a couple of miles out, you could not mistake the outline of those huge navy ships. 

Out on the Bay, our ride was really bumpy, the wind right on our nose (as always) and the waters very shallow.  We decided to stick to the main shipping channels for at least 20 - 40 feet of water, making our trip a lot longer but less testing…  Yorktown, up the York River, was our intended destination as we had a few days to kill before our scheduled arrival in Deltaville.  We arrived late at Yorktown Landing, picked up a nearby mooring and sat out a night of increasing slop. “What do you think of this mooring?” asked a cheery Cap’n the next morning.  “%#@&” replied GS.  “Should we stay at the Landing or go over to the Sarah Creek marina?” he asked.   “&%#@*, marina NOW”, said GS, popping another seasick pill.  And so it was, we pulled into the York River Yacht Haven, pier 4, bay 10.  Bliss; not so much as a ripple on the water – and it had a swimming pool!

Susan Constant at Dock' Yorktown

WJ3 at Dock, Sarah Creek

The weather continued to clear and warm up (just) so we took a free bus along a very scenic Colonial Parkway over to Jamestown Settlement, a little less than an hour away.  The Settlement is an historic park, not far from the site of the first English landing in 1607 on the James River. Aside from the usual museum, films and exhibits, staff dress in period costume typical of Colonial America and demonstrate how life would have been for those first 104 settlers.  We boarded replicas of colonial ships, marched through an early fort and watched soldiers fire muskets and cannons. Later, we chatted to friendly Indians in the Powhatan village about the not-so friendly things they did with sharpened oyster shells. 

Firing at Yorktown

The next day we had sun….  So we loaded our bikes up into the marina car and explored nearby Yorktown.  First stop was the Victory Centre, a similar set-up to Jamestown Settlement, where costumed guides walked us through life in a Continental Army encampment and a 1780’s farm.  Fires smoked, food was cooking and chickens roamed free.  Children are particularly encouraged with plenty of hands-on activities, although picking the apples was not one of them! 

Continental Army Camp

Saturday’s market down at Riverwalk Landing tempted us, so off we biked for a stroll around town.  We had coffee, tasted offerings at the market, looked at paintings and photographs for sale and visited most of the shops housed in cute period cottages.  GS also met an Airedale – a slim Coco lookalike - out for a stroll with her dad.  After the markets, we had a little time left so biked over to the Yorktown Battlefield, the site of the final major battle of the American Revolution in 1781.  Here, the British surrendered to American and French forces under the command of George Washington. This preserved site is quite large and visitors can drive (or bike if you’re game) between easily discernible battle lines. 

Two days was not enough of course, but the Motleys did their historical best…

From: Norfolk, VA  Lat/Long: 36 51N  76 18W  Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1030

To: Yorktown, VA  Lat/Long: 37 14N  76 30W Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1730
Time Taken: 60nm (7hrs)  Distance (this year): 2753nm (514hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 3604nm  (693hrs)   Fastest Speed: 4-5kts**
Weather: Some cloudiness & rain although clearing; strong NE on Chesapeake Bay motoring against tide and wind slowed us down
(** Mostly motoring with a little sail at times)

Stumpy Pungo

Beaufort to Coinjock: 24-27 Aug 09

Passing a large "tow"

We had read about boater lethargy; not wanting to leave port once safely at anchor or not wanting to stop once back on the road (or ditch actually)!  Not far from Beaufort lay the 200 mile marker (to the end of the ICW) and beyond 35N.  Again, we were keen to make up miles. 

Fishing Fleet

Typically, WJ3’s engines got a good workout before we stopped to spend an evening looking out over Goose Creek hiding from mozzies, and feeling quite safe until a Coast Guard Alert came over the VHF.  Thunderstorms and high winds, including a water spout, off the Pamlico River.  Oh no! That’s where we are!  (Actually there was quite a bit of swearing too – and it wasn’t the Coasties!)  We waited as dark clouds approached and then thankfully passed us by.  We did not see (and didn’t want to see) that water spout, even at a distance.

Sunset over Little Aligator Creek

The waterways opened up considerably after Goose Creek - Neuse River, Pamlico River then Pamlico Sound.  We steered by compass, lines of crab pots and the odd lonely ICW marker.  We even put up a sail and tried to remember how to use it; fair sailing until we reached sleepy Belhaven on the Pungo River.  The wifi café was closed (surprise! surprise!) but we managed to check our email at the local library.  Kindly, they let us stay for the afternoon, typing away in air-conditioned bliss.  Locals were exceptionally friendly, even offering rides and every assistance.

Crabs a go-go in Belhaven

Further up river, lay the Alligator-Pungo canal, 23 miles of stump jumpin’ and snag swervin’.  We had hardly passed any traffic at all in these waters and waved at them like sailors possessed if we did.  At the head of the Alligator River where it meets Albemarle Sound, and even more exposed waters, we nervously anchored off Little Alligator River amongst dozens of crab pots and duck blinds.  (The Motleys have set a world record for duck blind jokes, so don’t even ask!  It’s amazing what lack of TV can do for you!)  Although very shallow at 7-9ft, the sound can open up to 18ft!!  Wow! 

Stumpy Pungo

Strong winds cause steep, short waves making this area a wee bit of a mariner’s nightmare in bad weather.  Luckily, the weather held and we made a safe passage over to North River and North Carolina Cut. 

Early Morning calm at Coinjock Marina

Mid-way along this cut is Coinjock, nothing more than a couple of marina docks lining a canal.  Anchorages had been fairly sparse and any available were festooned with crab pots, so we tied up at Coinjock Marina.  It was a welcome change and offered protection if Tropical Storm Danny did decide to hit the coast with some lousy weather.  Tucked up in our air-conditioned beds in calm canal waters, we watched late night “tows” go by and allowed our feast of prime rib (half a cow per plate) to settle slowly.  More importantly, Coinjock lies at mile 50….  Only 50nm to go to Norfolk!  How exciting is that?

Crabbing at Belhaven

From: Beaufort, NC Lat/Long: 34 42N 75 39W  Date/Time: 24/8/09: 0930

To: Coinjock, NC  Lat/Long: 36 21N  75 57W Date/Time: 27/8/09: 1400

Time Taken: 154nm (24hrs)  Distance (this year): 2645nm (496hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 3494nm  (674hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**

Weather: Slight winds, calm seas; a few clouds about and a little rain to cool us down

(** motor/sail with all 3 sails out at one stage)

Two Friendly Potcakers

Stage 3 Turks & Caicos – Sapodilla Bay to South Side Marina: 21 Jun 09

Whilst trying to find somewhere to check in, our trusty Cap’n found a small marina in Cooper Jack Bight where we could refuel, re-water and do our washing.  There was a large IGA nearby to take care of reprovisioning, Customs came to us and a Dive shop worked out of the marina.  And they had 24/7 internet!  SOLD!  We’ll have 3 nights please.

Park your boat here Mister...

It was time to treat ourselves after our 5 day slog.  The South Side Marina is cruiser-friendly, even if their channel was somewhat hair-raising.  Five feet noted Cap’n Chaos on the way in.  Little did he know that our depth sounder would register 4.7’ on the way out!!!  We have a draft of 5.5’.  Technically, we needed roller skates fitted to our keel to make it into our berth….

Lunch with Bob

Our host Bob had a Sunday lunch date arranged at the Bay Bistro Restaurant and we were invited.  The open air restaurant overlooked the famed Grace Bay Beach - miles and miles of silky, white sand and endless turquoise.  We looked out for Jojo, the resident protected dolphin, but as it was Sunday, he must have been in Church.  We did meet Fred however, who runs a horse-riding business further down the beach.  He had spent his morning giving his lovely charges a teeth cleaning session.  You learn all sorts of things when you travel.

A "Get out of My Hair Day" at last!

Cap’n booked himself a dive trip.  Incredibly, the Banks average about 12’ of the clearest turquoise waters over a platform of coral reefs and islands.  On the edge, they instantly drop into the deepest of trenches.  Diving these areas is called “diving the wall”.  Himself had a day of two wall dives out from West Caicos, which he enjoyed immensely, seeing a huge leopard ray, which had a little school of remoras swimming with it.  He also saw the only crayfish in the Caribbean Sea!  Yes, it is out of season – but it seems they’ve all gone somewhere on holidays too!  The crays, tuna, mahi mahi and bonito, in fact any edible fish, have all left the building – we’ve not seen any at all!

 GS had a peaceful day working madly on catching up with internet chores.  Isn’t skype a wonderful thing?  Best of all, she got to meet Effie and Gemma, two potcakers who had taken up residence at the marina and now almost owned it!  

Potcake is the name given to a stray or homeless dog/animal on the islands.  Gemma was missing her owner, the marina manager who was away on holidays, so she set about making herself very comfortable for the night on board WJ3, all meals included!  Who could blame her?  We lit our barbecue and shared (with Gemma who insisted!) the best, freshest food we’d had since leaving home.  Then tucked her into bed, as you would too!

From: Sapodilla Bay, TCI Lat/Long:21 44N 72 17W Date/Time: 21/6/09: 0730

To: South Side Marina, TCI Lat/Long:21 45N 72 13W Date/Time:21/6/09: 0830

Time Taken: 4nm (1hrs) Distance(this year): 1042nm (239.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1991nm (407.5hrs) Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds SW 10-15kts; Seas 2-4ft; SW swell

(**Good shelter from SW in the marina – normally the “quiet”side; milky green water due to ongoing resort & marina dredging nearby)

And Peter's Point Was?

My diary reads, “Winds ENE (on the nose again!), small swell (no bucket necessary), able to get money (finally) and food (pizza!!!)". Clearly our previous anchorage had been a traumatic experience…..

Sunset over Pointe-à-Pitré

Pointe-a-Pitre is not necessarily on any cruiser’s list of idyllic locations. It’s a downtown dockyard for commercial shipping, inter-island ferries and large cruising liners. On the edge of town is a huge 1000 berth marina and it’s quite full, both locally owned and charter yachts. Charter companies here seem to offer mostly monohulls (or as the French say bateau monocoque) rather than catamarans - this doesn’t mean that there isn’t a sizeable fleet of them. We glide through many, many docks on Bruce looking at a distinctly French fleet of Jeanneau, Maramoo, Beneteau and an assortment of expensive aluminium hulled yachts. The Cap’n pointed out a couple of large, white Swans…..and yes, I was looking for birds! Well, the French are very stylish and I wouldn’t be at all surprised if they didn’t have a few swans to add to the marina’s aquatic ambience!

Dockyard Graffiti

Our mooring is within metres of a red shipping channel marker, so if this post seems somewhat disjointed it’s because I pop up on deck whenever I hear the chug of an engine to see what is going on. Lots of medium sized container ships – no doubt full of French goodies; ferries full of people travelling between islands (our Cap’n did wonder why we needed a boat!) and smaller local barges transporting cargo of cows, tractors, cars and containers; fascinating. if not a bit swelly at times! Never-the-less we’ve been busy cleaning up WJ3 both inside and out, so she is looking and smelling sweet again.

The Missing Link

If you think that Pointe-a-Pitre sounds Dutch, that’s because it was named after a merchant who settled in Guadeloupe in 1654. Peter was a Dutch Jew who had been exiled from Brazil (he must have been quite a character?). He started a fish market beside the harbour, known as Peter’s Point.  This useful harbour was further developed during British occupation (1759-63) into a major trading port for English and North American markets. It is now very definitely French and Guadeloupe’s largest city and busiest port.

Our arrival here was timely. At last! A relieved Cap’n clutched his self-steering rudder. We could assemble and commission “Bert” for our next crossing. Meanwhile alarmingly, the generator chose to blow out fuses (and not charge WJ3’s batteries), so we had three long days without refrigeration. Easy enough to cope with food-wise; left-over’s were consigned over the side as fish food. But NO COLD BEER!!! A mutiny was only narrowly averted……

 

From: Bourge des Saintes Lat/Long: 15 52N  61 35W Date/Time: 16/8/08: 1130

To:  Pointe-a-Pitre  Lat/Long: 16 14N  61 32W  Date/Time: 16/8/08: 1730
Time Taken: 24nm (6hrs) Distance (this year): 397nm (87hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 397nm  (87hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.5kt **
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds SW 12-15kts; 2-4ft swell; 0.5kt W current
(Slow going; engine assisted to achieve a sober 5-5.5kts)