Stumpy Pungo

Beaufort to Coinjock: 24-27 Aug 09

Passing a large "tow"

We had read about boater lethargy; not wanting to leave port once safely at anchor or not wanting to stop once back on the road (or ditch actually)!  Not far from Beaufort lay the 200 mile marker (to the end of the ICW) and beyond 35N.  Again, we were keen to make up miles. 

Fishing Fleet

Typically, WJ3’s engines got a good workout before we stopped to spend an evening looking out over Goose Creek hiding from mozzies, and feeling quite safe until a Coast Guard Alert came over the VHF.  Thunderstorms and high winds, including a water spout, off the Pamlico River.  Oh no! That’s where we are!  (Actually there was quite a bit of swearing too – and it wasn’t the Coasties!)  We waited as dark clouds approached and then thankfully passed us by.  We did not see (and didn’t want to see) that water spout, even at a distance.

Sunset over Little Aligator Creek

The waterways opened up considerably after Goose Creek - Neuse River, Pamlico River then Pamlico Sound.  We steered by compass, lines of crab pots and the odd lonely ICW marker.  We even put up a sail and tried to remember how to use it; fair sailing until we reached sleepy Belhaven on the Pungo River.  The wifi café was closed (surprise! surprise!) but we managed to check our email at the local library.  Kindly, they let us stay for the afternoon, typing away in air-conditioned bliss.  Locals were exceptionally friendly, even offering rides and every assistance.

Crabs a go-go in Belhaven

Further up river, lay the Alligator-Pungo canal, 23 miles of stump jumpin’ and snag swervin’.  We had hardly passed any traffic at all in these waters and waved at them like sailors possessed if we did.  At the head of the Alligator River where it meets Albemarle Sound, and even more exposed waters, we nervously anchored off Little Alligator River amongst dozens of crab pots and duck blinds.  (The Motleys have set a world record for duck blind jokes, so don’t even ask!  It’s amazing what lack of TV can do for you!)  Although very shallow at 7-9ft, the sound can open up to 18ft!!  Wow! 

Stumpy Pungo

Strong winds cause steep, short waves making this area a wee bit of a mariner’s nightmare in bad weather.  Luckily, the weather held and we made a safe passage over to North River and North Carolina Cut. 

Early Morning calm at Coinjock Marina

Mid-way along this cut is Coinjock, nothing more than a couple of marina docks lining a canal.  Anchorages had been fairly sparse and any available were festooned with crab pots, so we tied up at Coinjock Marina.  It was a welcome change and offered protection if Tropical Storm Danny did decide to hit the coast with some lousy weather.  Tucked up in our air-conditioned beds in calm canal waters, we watched late night “tows” go by and allowed our feast of prime rib (half a cow per plate) to settle slowly.  More importantly, Coinjock lies at mile 50….  Only 50nm to go to Norfolk!  How exciting is that?

Crabbing at Belhaven

From: Beaufort, NC Lat/Long: 34 42N 75 39W  Date/Time: 24/8/09: 0930

To: Coinjock, NC  Lat/Long: 36 21N  75 57W Date/Time: 27/8/09: 1400

Time Taken: 154nm (24hrs)  Distance (this year): 2645nm (496hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 3494nm  (674hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**

Weather: Slight winds, calm seas; a few clouds about and a little rain to cool us down

(** motor/sail with all 3 sails out at one stage)