Sharin' with Barefoot & Fatty Knees

A most kissable nose

Deltaville, on the Hard: 22 October 2010

Well, the Motleys are in the Deltaville Boat Yard.  Windjammer is all hauled out and propped up near some big, sheltering pine trees.  Our Cap'n is busy winterising and GS is cleaning & oiling timber - none of it fun!  We are scheduled to fly out in a few days, so this is most definitely the last post of the season.

A real windjammer on (a grey day) Chesapeake

We'll add some photos to the posts when we get home and have a chance to play with this new blog site.  Our tracking site however is still operating here so you can see how many pins we've put into America's East Coast and zoom up close into our anchorages - or perhaps even wave to us in the boat yard. 

Deltaville Boatyard.  WJ3 & our flash bikes

Fair winds & following seas

Patuxent River Piranha

Solomons Maritme Museum Lighthouse

What did we do in the Solomons? Sheltered from the storm, froze to death, cooked baked dinners so the oven would heat the cabin at night, found a supermarket so we wouldn’t starve and finally visited their very interesting maritime museum. Now every town on the Chesapeake has a maritime history and most sport a museum, but this one is exceptional.

We strolled through local maritime and area history; many of the exhibits have been donated by local watermen and their families. The exhibition hall has a huge variety of displays including very old outboard engines, models of character craft that plied the waterways, such as a 250 seat theatre, and today’s feature exhibit, a tank of live rays and skates. Docents, all volunteers, knew their stuff and actually made it interesting. They also get to supervise a discovery room where children can hoist sails in a skiff, climb a lighthouse model (& turn the lamp on) or explore a touchtank full of squishy fishies. We looked for crabs in the marsh, watched two fat & happy otters perform like spoilt kids, and gazed at estuariums full of local marine life. We climbed the Drum Point Lighthouse (1883) to the lantern room and were surprised at how much “living” space the lighthouse had. (GS took measurements for a Dangar prototype.) Most fascinating were the (20 million year old) fossils taken from nearby Calvert Cliffs. Coming eye to mouth with 37½ feet of megalodon, a shark ancestor & one of only two in the world, made our white pointers look somewhat docile.

37 feet of teeth

The fun was nearly over - time to make our way to Jackson Creek and WJ3’s winter home. We set sail early leaving with a crowd of migrating locals. Like their namesakes (snow geese) they honked and fussed all day; the VHF rarely silent. All the way back down the Bay Cap’n & GS wished they could remember the words to that truckin’ song “Mercy sakes alive, looks like we got us a connnn vvvvoy…”. (Apologies to CW Mcall) 

Unbelievable but true for an early start! It’s still quite dark at 7am. (No wonder we’ve been sleeping so late!)

From: Solomons Island, MD Lat/Long: 38 19N 76 27W  Date/Time: 19/10/10: 0715

To: Deltaville, VA  Lat/Long: 37 32N  76 19W  Date/Time: 19/10/10: 1605
Time Taken: 60nm (9.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1736nm (303hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 5376nm (1002hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7.6kts
Weather: Winds E starting 25kts down to 3kts; Seas 1-2ft;

In case you missed the above figures, we’ve done an astonishing 1736nm (303 hrs) again this year!

Not so Chirpy on the Choptank

After living the fantasy at Annapolis, it was time to move on.  The Eastern Shore (its warm & very shallow waters) and St Michaels beckoned for a more laid back experience.  Don’t believe it.  First we nearly went aground looking for an anchorage, the weather changed to “solid” rain and to our amazement, a mini-cruise ship berthed in town.  Our anchoring efforts were watched closely by a neighbouring yottie, who immediately moved, not once but twice.  Finally, he took a marina slip.  All the while shouting at his wife - he must be worth a mint is all I can say…

Jolly cold on the trip back

Rather than sit like glum bunnies, we moved on in the rain to Oxford.  Just in time of course for screeching 25kt North Westerlies to set in.  They found us hidden up in Town Creek too!  Needless to say, we dragged on the anchor*, across the channel, into 6 feet of water….at 5.30 in the morning.  “Lets get going”, shouted a stern Cap’n.  It was still blowing a gale, and it was DARK.  Let’s just say that this part of the voyage ended off the mouth of Tred Avon River in gusting 30kt winds, 3-6 foot seas and NO working motor.  Did I mention it was dark?  Cap’n Calamity set the sails (real quick) and took us back up the Tred Avon way from that nasty white spider lurking on a shoal nearby.  Back in a relative calm, we dropped anchor (Under sail – aren’t we getting good at this?) and waited for daylight and a fuel dock to open.

Fresh fuel seemed to settle nasty bits of sediment that keep blocking WJ3’s fuel supply.  That fixed, we had another go.  After a few hours of windward bashing out the Choptank, all sails were hoisted and off we went like a rocket, south to the Solomons, now a busy refuge for snow geese (Canadians) sheltering from the weather too but definitely on the move for some Bahamian warmth.  Time for us to have a few days off as well!

Back down Chesapeake Bay - seems like home!

*We later found out that the Oxford Creek bed is covered in layers of old oyster shells and holding is notoriously poor - otherwise known as a "shell back"!  Also Tred Avon is a corruption of Thread Haven. In 1683, supplies of rope, hemp and cordage were produced here to meet seafaring needs.

From: Weems Creek Lat/Long: 38:59.9710N  76:30.1740W  Date/Time: 13/10/10: 1000
To: Solomons Island  Lat/Long: 38:19.9160N  76:27.5520W   Date/Time: 15/10/10: 1620
Time Taken: 27.6nm (6 hrs) St Michaels; 31.3nm (6hrs) Oxford; 30nm (6hrs) Solomons Island 

Distance (this year): 1675.9nm (293.5hrs) Distance Total (since 2008): 5313.5 (992.5hrs) 

Weather: NW; 15-20kts G30; 3' seas; this continued for days......    Fastest Speed: 7.6kts

Honk if you're Happy

We arrived back at Great Kills in time to re-provision (in still more rain) and fuss over Windjammer having ignored her for so long.  Our Cap’n Trusty managed to work the tides just right and we had a great overnight ride, flying down the coast to Cape May, sucked up into Delaware Bay, funnelled into the C&D Canal and finally deposited into Chesapeake Bay.  We anchored up Sassafras River next to a huge flotilla of noisy honking Canadian geese briefing each other on the evening’s flight path.

Oh Good! Channel Markers Again!

What a dream run we’d had!  We did make some sacrifices of course.  The Cap’n kept himself busy practising his waving technique.  Few waved back.  And whilst GS didn’t have to swear and curse at little blood sucking black flies or engines that didn’t work, the weather was noticeably cooler.   So, we did the whole "rugged up kit and caboodle" again, this time without the down sleeping bag knee rugs .  The Motleys also donated yet another expensive lure to various creatures of the deep.  We can only imagine that they were whoppers….  The first lure was lost at sea somewhere over the Delaware Bay shoals and the second at sundowners (guaranteed an inconvenient time) on the Atlantic corridor.

Wall to Wall Boats

Looking at our watches, we realised we could make the last day of the Annapolis Sail Boat Show.  Baltimore or Annapolis?  Annapolis or Baltimore?  The Show was great and despite giving it our very best, we probably only covered about 1/3 -1/2.  It’s big….  Our bags were full of goodies, our feet sore from walking over any number of contenders for WJ4, and our jaws tired from yakking to experts.  We even found Clive from BVI Yacht Sales to report our various adventures since buying WJ3.  At show’s end, the fun is to buy a pint or a painkiller (Caribbean rum cocktail) and when the gun is fired, watch docks being dismantled and an expensive flotilla sail off into the sunset.  Beneteau have our award for best showing off.  Those new 50 foot designs could spin on a dime – and they did, much to the crowd’s admiration.  I'm guessing a few more would have been sold after that little display!

Historical Annapolis

Annapolis is actually quite an historical town.  The next day, Cap’n and crew took a trolley tour from the Visitors Centre then the usual, separate ways.  Guess who went to see the Naval Academy with its 180 ships models and 4500 midshipmen?  Not GS!  She headed for downtown Main Street to look at works by local craftspeople then on to see two historic houses – the Hammond-Harwood House, a colourful Georgian classic and the William Pacca House, home to a signee of the Declaration of Independence.  The latter has a picturesque pleasure garden which has recently found light of day after years of being covered by bitumen (a car park).  We biked back home in the dark to WJ3, happily floating on Weems Creek.  In our absence, “Monday Morning” had taken a USN mooring nearby.  She’s a timber classic and home to Boston Tom, whom we met during our stay at Deltaville.

A bustling Weems Creek at Boat Show Time

From: Great Kills, NY  Lat/Long: 40 32N  74 08W  Date/Time: 8/10/10: 1100

To: Weems Creek, MD  Lat/Long: 38 59N  76 30W  Date/Time: 10/10/10: 1540
Time Taken: 257nm (36hrs)  Distance (this year): 1587nm (275.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 5227nm (974.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 9.2kts**
Weather: Winds W- NW 10-15kts G20kts; Seas 2-3ft; a bumpy Atlantic ride
(**7.8kts out NY Harbor, slowing to 5.4 (against current) at Ocean City then 9.2 up Delaware Bay & 8.6 through C&D Canal. A skittish WJ3 thinks she’s young again…)

One Spy Kit to Go

The weather forecast promised a few more days of non-sailing weather, so rather than attempt a trip bashing into high seas off the Atlantic coast, we opted for a faster, dryer mode of transport – the train - and roared off down to Washington DC.   Washington is on the Potomac River, a goodly way upstream and we would need time (a week) to get WJ3 up there.  So, two returns on Amtrak, thanks.  No luggage for Red Caps (porters) either.  (This train system puts ours to shame, thanks for asking!).  We stayed centrally (easy walking) at the Crown Plaza and had a few days to do the sights & sites!

Aussie mates, Warren & Dominique took us on a drive out to historical Bull Run.  Virginia is just steeped in history and the effort made to conserve it, both by government & local interest groups is noteworthy.  We took a guided tour around a battlefield smaller than most farms before sneaking past W&D’s house (not to disturb their dogs guarding his Corvette), then headed off to Oldtown for a few quiet ales in a character Irish pub.

Over the next few days, Cap’n & crew managed to sit together on an informative trolley tour of town, then head their separate ways.  Cap’n Bond went straight for the Spy Museum, ended up at the Smithsonian Portrait Gallery, then went all military again; over to Arlington Cemetery, Lincoln Memorial and the Vietnam Memorial.  The First Mate made a b-line for the Textile Museum and had a sneak peek at an upcoming ikat exhibition; from there to another boutique museum, Women in Arts, then over to the Renwick Gallery and finally a stroll around The White House perimeter.  Cap’n & GS met each day to exchange noteworthy frippery over a few ales at the Capital City Brewing Company, one of few “shopfronts” in a city seemingly of government offices and museums.  The Prez couldn’t make it to drinks; he had a bit of a bash going on at ‘ome…

We caught the subway over to the Pentagon and, through a barrage of security warnings and great lists of don’ts, visited the 9/11 Memorial.  We had come to pay our respects to friend Yvonne Kennedy, who was on the aircraft that crashed into the Pentagon in 2000.  This memorial is a fitting and subtle homage to those who died.  It is hard to believe ten years have since passed.

All that Glitters IS New York

Having tucked WJ3 safely on her RCYC mooring, the Motleys held an “open boat”, welcoming many including Max, who had been following us down the coast from Maine in his truck & caravan (trailer in local lingo).  Alan brought an entourage as well; we impressed them with the RCYC launch service out to the mooring and GS piped ‘em aboard with a piercing whistle.

Even the Swan Family popped by at Great Kills

The promised bad weather set in the next day – the day we were travelling by bus to Manhattan.  We arrived wet and smelly on Al’s doorstep, not before having been sussed out twice by strategically placed doormen.  Security’s big in New York….(see something, say something).

Wet weather continued yet we persisted with our social program of visiting friends and museums.  The Cap’n continued with his nautical themed tours to South Street Seaport (not a patch on Mystic), strutted the decks of aircraft carrier Intrepid and explored close quarters of a nearby submarine.  As we now have our own “fleet” of 6, perhaps he really is due for promotion to Admiral?  Briefly tiring of nauticalities, he went in search of something more nauti – yes, the Se(x) Museum really exists and afterwards to an exhibit of body bits, some cut into dainty, thin slices.

Fabulous Folk Art Museum

GS had loftier, more arty things in mind, so headed off to the Folk Art Museum with a little detour via Macy’s, a walk past 5^th Ave designer shops and lots of coffee/cake in nice little bookstores.  Having a whole day in the Met again, she still did not cover more than a third – the Japanese section even has its own reading room and library for goodness sake!!  Annette, a friend from Delhi daze, led us on a merry chase to look at bead shops full of tempting sparklers.  As if our Jain Jeweller in Old Delhi had not sold us enough goodies!  Not to be outdone, GS produced a list of NYC quilting supply shops (including City Quilter & Purl Soho) which managed to keep us dry & out of the rain.  We lunched in Sullivan Street and had time to explore a little of Chinatown & Little Italy precincts on our way back to the bus.  Later over a delicious home-cooked dinner (yes, it can happen in NY), George told us the best places to buy hiking boots and fountain pens.  WJ3’s lockers are just bursting with goodies…..

Sotherby’s is just around the corner from Al’s.  We decided to buy some wine (anniversary champagne) and went upstairs to view auction items.  WOW and I say again, wow!  Sale items varied from Custer’s Colours (flag) from the famous Last Stand battle, a floor of Modernist & Impressionist paintings (Arp, Picasso, Dufy), a few Henry Moore Sculptures and even some folk art being sold off by Museums to fund more lucrative exhibit purchases.  There were two floors of estate furniture, including a silver swing (from some exotic Sultan’s palace no doubt) and several life size Moorish figures perfect for holding ferns in your conservatory or an afternoon cuppa & cucumber sangers.  Another floor held some fabulous photos by masters of the art - Ansel  Adams. Man Ray, Edward Weston, Robert Maplethorpe, Edward S Curtis.  Curtis did those stunning portraits of American Indians.  There were also several iconic NYC steel worker pieces and a striking coloured portrait of Frieda Kallo.  All these wonderful things to buy!  The Cap’n hid our cheque book, cut up the credit card and put title deeds for Penawar & WJ3 into a locked safe.  Gackkkkkkk!

Skanky Tourists

Just too exciting

Long Island Sound is a sailor’s dream - lots of enclosed water, not too far from land, marinas on every corner (mooring fields if you’re really feeling rugged & outdoorsy) and very little commercial traffic.  There are lots of very expensive, very large sailboats to ogle too.  Hylas, Oyster, Morris from Maine and Swan to mention a few.  That means it’s as busy as, especially when you nose your way closer to Throgs Neck Bridge, the gateway to our favourite water shute, East River.

Motleys spent the night off Plum Point in Manhasset Bay next to a wedding cake on water (Some hot water boat owners just don’t know when to stop do they?)  Here we spent the night worrying over tide & slack water timings.  Our Cap’n Tidy cleaned and primped WJ3 for her “showing” even doing the brass – we had pre-warned friends of our sail down Manhattan.  He wanted the photos to look good.

Of course they did.  But our friends the coasties neglected to mention, until we were almost on East River, that it was off limits again.  So we begged and pleaded and then had to be “escorted” past the UN building by a USCG rib nattily decorated with a 50 cal machine gun.  (Wayne’s sheep dogs don’t work as hard!)  Its crew were decked out in basic black accented by bullet-proof vests and can’t-see-me sunnies.  Wanting to stand out in a crowd, our Cap’n dressed in his best green & gold aussie boardies, then leapt about waving with enthusiasm to our high-rise friends.  Wouldn’t you agree this was a perfect moment for holiday snaps?

The views from WJ3 are always exceptional

After shooting the East River rapids, we took the scenic route close to Lady Liberty then turned dodging monster container ships, hard-working tugs and fearless Staten Island Ferries in NY’s vast harbor.  We were heading back to Great Kills, a haven from traffic and approaching nasty weather.  Also home to two very cranky, white (overfed) swans - GS kept her distance.  Having witnessed her baby brother being attacked by such fearsome creatures many years ago, all available stale bread was made ready.

Over on the docks, a quieter, black swan languished.  Its owner, our launch captain, did not hail from down under.  In old sea lore, he told us, a black swan was a mythical creature and symbolised the unknown or infinity.  That was until some killjoy sailed up  Swan River over in the West.

East River (right of map)
How close were we??

From: Rowayton, CT  Lat/Long: 41 03N  73 26W  Date/Time: 24/9/10: 1050
To: Great Kills, NY  Lat/Long: 40 32N  74 08W  Date/Time: 25/9/10: 1540
Time Taken: 57nm (8hrs)  Distance (this year): 1330nm (239.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4970nm (938.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 9.8kts**
Weather: Winds SW 5-15kts; Seas 1-3ft; then W turning NE 10-15kts; Seas 2-3ft; evening rain
(**Motoring through Hell Gate & East River dodging (armed) USCG ribs…)