Showing posts with label Trinidad 2008. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trinidad 2008. Show all posts

Monday, 20 October 2008

Plans, Schedules & History Lessons

Mappin’ it down: 1 Oct 08

This is for our friends and family who have been curious about where we were sailing. Aside from half a world away from home, the Caribbean is a totally different cultural experience.

Christopher Columbus
Columbus named the Caribbean, The Indies, during his voyages in 1492. He believed he had landed in India. The whole area is called the Antilles (apparently after mythical islands at the end of the earth) with the northern islands being the Greater Antilles and the southern islands the Lesser Antilles. Overall The West Indies is a collection of 27 territories and some 7000 islands spread neatly across the equator connecting the US to the South American coastline. Making for a great warm climate sailing adventure!

We’ve been sailing the Lesser Antilles; essentially made up of the Virgin Islands, the Leeward Islands and the Windward Islands down to Trinidad. Our cruise did not include the USVI, due largely to their visa requirements and our schedule, given we had set sail too close for comfort in the hurricane season window. Sitting in Bequia and Grenada watching hurricanes lashing coastal US and the northern Caribbean gave us some sense of relief in that we had made the right decision to move with haste down to the relative safety of 12 degrees. We were happier still to arrive in Trinidad....
General location of the Caribbean
(with an easy to read map thanks to World Atlas)

Salt Whistle Bay
To put things in perspective, it’s time for a short history lesson! Evidence of first settlers in the islands goes back some 5000 years. Later on, Arawaks, a group of peaceful Amerindians, some from the Orinoco River Delta (South America) area, gradually settled on the islands. In the 12th century, the more war-like Caribs followed. We have these folk to thank for tobacco, the hammock, hearty bbqs and cannibalism; the latter two said to be largely the plight of the Arawaks at the hand of the Caribs. 
Old Warehouses, Grenada
Columbus, in his search for the East Indies in 1492, set the pace for eager Conquistadores greedy for gold and other riches to be had in Central and South America. It didn’t take long before others, in national or self-interest (pirates), set sail for the Spanish Main in search of booty. Maritime dominance was critical and many islands were settled with military establishments to protect these interests. Piracy, legal or otherwise, lasted for several hundred years; well in the 1700’s.

As the turbulent buccaneer era waned, English, French, Dutch and Danish settlers began colonising. From the 1620’s, and over the next 200 years, the islands were frequently fought over and changed hands many times. Pressures varied, including the American Revolution to the Napoleonic Wars. All to the detriment of any surviving Caribs, who just didn’t stand a chance!
Fort George 1705
Although the Spanish had made use of slave labour years before, it wasn’t until the 1780’s when slavery became big business. Following improved law enforcement, casual farming was replaced by organised plantations and the need for cheap labour. The islands produced sugar cane, indigo, pineapples, spices and rum and the Trade Winds were conducive to international business dealings. 

Despite the abolition of slavery by the British in 1834, a profit driven Plantocracy continued their exploitation. Much later, after numerous slave rebellions, a much less profitable system of indentured workers became common. Many of these workers came from places like India and China. However, their life wasn’t much better than that of slaves. By the mid 1800’s, the boom was over; beet had replaced cane sugar, slaves had their freedom and white populations had deserted many of the islands. 

Spiriting off - grocery shopping Caribbean style
Faltering economies and natural disasters eventually forced the islands out of a peaceful slumber and as late as the 1980’s, the rise in tourism became seen as an opportunity for a sustainable life. So here it is today, a popular road, well travelled.
Tourism Caribbean Style

Sunday, 19 October 2008

Michael row the boat ashore, NOW!

Wont Seasnin’ wit Dat?: 30 Sep 08 
Sunset over Venezuela - that's South America, folks!
Well, we’ve not got long to go now so it’s time to be a bit reflective about our trip so far. What’s been most important to us? Weather; security; and good ol’ communication!

Hurricanes. Need I say more? Our whole itinerary was planned around the consequences of the weather, in particular hurricanes. If we could get internet connection by hanging upside down over hot coals, our first search was always for weather; hurricane reports as well as local weather. We had a few favourite sites such as Jeff Masters, NHAA and CaribWX; with a little American weatherdotcom smooze thrown in for good measure. The Cap’n perused our cruising guides (all 5 of them) to ascertain the best hurricane safe harbours. We talked to “old hands” and read books on hurricane survival strategies. Thankfully, our only experience was to have those regular trade winds knocked over by north passing “significant features” and so see way too much wind action from the SE.
Montserrat
As if wind watching wasn’t enough, we had to keep a weather eye out for volcanic activity & earthquakes. Lessons from the past, including recent activity on Montserrat prevented us visiting some areas. In Montserrat you need special permission to land because at least half the island is an exclusion zone. (There was an eruption on 28 Jul 08. Luckily we were in St Martins!) The obvious lava flow near St Pierre (Martinique, 1902) was a reminder of the devastation an eruption can bring – not to mention tsunami and other troublesome worries for nautical types. We prepared…it was like being in Nepal all over again!
Saba Rock Resort
Of course, and it seems strange to mention it because after all that’s why we’re here, but we did have to keep an eye out for coral reefs. Beautiful yet treacherous; too many have unwittingly succumbed. In Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, they call one reef “bare boater’s alley”. Despite the wonders of modern navigational aids, “eyeball” navigation in good light was considered the best means for avoiding a good grinding or at worst a sinking! 
Taking Security Seriously
A newspaper published monthly, the Caribbean Compass, gave us an eye on the cruising community; hot topics, news and views. It made for good reading although we were concerned about news of killings and robbings, especially in Venezuela and even St Vincent. Security is a huge issue, and unlike some gun-totin’ Yankees we met, we chose to just be cautious, lock up and ask locals questions. We left our dingy strapped firmly to WJ3 & out the water in Dominica. 
Boat Watch
In St Martin and St Lucia we waited to launch until confirming with marina staff that dingy theft was not an issue. BW decorated our outboard with paint and removed evidence of its horsepower. We also invested in chain & locks. Security net is also a helpful compilation of reported crime, which makes for interesting reading & useful advice. Lastly, we have finally come upon the Cruisers Net on VHF Channel 68. This is daily weather, security, information and social updates for cruisers. SSB radio seems to be somewhat “old hat” given new generation internet availability, so we found it difficult to tune in.
Researchin' Trini style
With the proliferation of internet access, many cafes and marinas are turning to wifi. That doesn’t mean those little radio waves are always buzzin’…. Interference comes in many forms – most usually in the shape of superyachts and hot water boats with big antenna & lots of electronics. Otherwise, our anchorage was out of line-of-sight; just too far out; swinging the wrong way or a multitude other such technical mysteries that my little computer could not cope with! Enough to drive you to drink! Mmmm, now that’s a good idea!