Florida Finale

St Augustine to Jacksonville: 9 Aug 09

Up River to Jacksonville

Having made the deep waters of St Johns River (m 740), the Motleys heaved a sigh of relief.  The tricky thing however was to navigate our way up-steam on a free newspaper chart and advice from Skipper Bob!  We finally did arrive at Jacksonville Landing, a free dock right in the heart of the city.  It is here we provided something of a light relief for the local citizenry, if not improving their knowledge of geography. 

The river water has been a dark chocolate brown so far giving both WJ3 and Bruce a bit of a brown moustache.  After clear Caribbean waters, this muddy broth looks bad but seems to team with life, especially crabs, mullet and clams –a particular local favourite.  

Docked at Jacksonville Landing

Despite being downtown, it’s all very quiet.  We did however manage to find some groceries (a corner store) and finally wifi at a bookstore café amid a vast collection of restaurants and food courts that sell huge portions of fried (and only fried, ma’am) food.  We still haven’t quite yet managed to understand the disparity between all those good fresh foods available in supermarkets to the hash that is served up – mostly fried!  Maybe we eat too cheap!!

Dodging Freighters down river

The Cap’n had someone out to check WJ3’s electronics – not looking too good I’m afraid.  But we decided not to wait around for an in-store assessment.  That could lead to waiting for parts and Jacksonville is not our end (or desired) destination.  Of course, the generator decided to leak, so we’re seeing to that too!  Our trusty Cap’n did say that cruising was a matter of sailing between ports for repairs.  GS did not laugh….

Jacksonville is to be our last port of call in Florida.  From here we are braving the Gulf Stream, cheating a little on our mile count and heading for Charleston in South Carolina.  "Ah say, has enywaan seen ma Scarlett?"

From: St Augustine, FL  Lat/Long: 29 53N  81 18W  Date/Time: 9/8/09: 0745

To: Jacksonville, FL  Lat/Long: 30 19N  81 39W Date/Time: 9/8/09: 1630

Time Taken: 57nm (9.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 2066nm (408hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2915nm  (586hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**

Weather: kts;  Seas ft;  Swell; no evening thunderstorms but insufferably hot & sticky

(** Motor sailing; 6 bridges; 2 overhead power lines on ICW; 4 bridges & 1 power line up river )

Flagler's Legacy

St Augustine was quite interesting and we certainly covered some miles.  As a result, we knew you'd be keen to see a few extra photos....

Flagler College

Flagler College, once the grand Ponce de Leon Hotel, was a luxury resort built for the wealthy and famous by Henry Flagler in 1887.  Its artwork, architecture and Tiffany windows are a sight to behold.   We marveled at the decorative detail both inside and out, extravagant fountains and plush furnishings.  Gold leaf was used with wild abandon and frescoes cover ceilings and walls.  Fabulous oil paintings, clocks, sculptures and candelabras hang everywhere.  Wood is highly carved and polished within an inch of its life.  Oh, to be rich!

Stunning Bronze in Lightner Museum

The Lightner Museum, formerly the Alcazar Hotel, was also built by Flagler in 1888. His signature style, a sort of wild Spanish version of Rococo, was clearly evident in this casino come pool/spa resort, a welcome diversion for his wealthy guests.  The Museum contains an interesting collection of Victorian period memorabilia and items that were in everyday use by guests at the Hotel in its heyday.  Collections of vases, glassware, cutlery and crockery used in the hotel were displayed along with other items used or collected by wealthy owners  over what is now known as the Guilded Age.  We walked through its grand ballroom that once overlooked a huge indoor swimming pool (now sadly concreted over), and were amazed by complicated plumbing in the bath and steam rooms.  No luxuries were spared.

Dinner Guest at Ripleys...everything has a story attached!

Ripley's (of Believe it or not! fame) Mansion dates from 1887 and is now converted into a museum of oddities - such as the moose, once frozen in that very window.  I think he's well and truly stuffed now!  I'm not sure that he sings though, Paula....

We crossed 2 bridges, clutching handrails to keep from falling - only to discover it was a trick that confused our brains (and that's not too hard, really!).  The Cap'n was so miffed, he tried it a second time only to discover that he couldn't get 2 steps onto the bridge before going weak at the knees.

Oldest School House

There was quite a collection of oriental bits and pieces and although it seemed "usual" to us (living in the Asia Pacific region), the life and times of the far Orient must have been, and probably still is, quite a mystery to many.   Other oddities around town included the oldest school house in US.  (That's not the world's oldest pupil beside it however!).  As you can see, we had lots of fun exploring St Augustine - it's highly recommended for a visit.   

Other ways to see the ICW, me hearties!

Faulty Towers

The Real Fountain of Youth....sure!

Ridin' that Train round town

St Augustine (mile 778) proved to be just what the doctor ordered in terms of distraction from our woes.  Although touristy, it was well planned with quite a bit to see and do.  We rode round town in the geeky but fun, red train to get an overview of offerings and then over to a Starbucks (coffee & cake at last!) where we planned our day.  The Cap’n headed off for the Sailor’s Exchange (not a tourist destination) so the GS headed for the Dow Historic Houses and museum. 

This one's gotta work...

There are several layers of history to St Augustine which make it especially interesting.  Ponce de Leon landed here and claimed Florida for Spain in 1513, ignoring of course, the local Timucuan Indian population.  Ponce de Leon was also famous for his quest to find the fountain of youth.  He believed that he had discovered it in a nearby sulphur spring.  In 1565, the Spanish established St Augustine as an outpost to protect their loaded treasure fleets sailing home on the strength of the Gulf Stream current.  By 1695, Castillo de San Marcos stood as a threat to enemies both from sea and land.  It is constructed of coquina (or shell limestone) blocks, which proved impervious to cannon fire!  Many of the earlier homes in St Augustine are also constructed of coquina.

Castillo de San Marcos

Florida was transferred to English control in 1763 and remained loyal to the crown even during the American Revolution.  However, in 1783, it was again returned to Spain until the Americans gained control in 1821.  In the aftermath of the Seminole Wars and later Civil War, St Augustine became a winter retreat for northerners.  Henry Flagler, a self-made millionaire, saw tourist potential in the small town and he set out to build resorts for wealthy patrons.  In particular, he capitalised on St Augustine’s Spanish heritage and developed a unique Spanish Renaissance Revival architectural style. 

Spanish Mortar

In 1888, the Ponce de Leon Hotel opened its doors for 450 guests.  It now hosts rather more college students as the Flagler College and only a little less luxuriously.  In that same year, he also had the Hotel Alcazar built as a casino, ballroom and pool/spar resort to entertain his guests.  The luxurious pool is now filled in but the ballroom has been restored to reflect the elegant splendour of America’s Gilded Age.  As the Lightner Museum, it allows public access to this grand building and its collection of rare and expensive items.  These include many Tiffany stained glass works, large, stuffed animals and rare art works; all of which were used to make the wealthy feel at home, away from home!

At home along the ICW

Aside from these delights, we also visited (& tasted) the San Sebastian Winery, which uses vines/styles dating back to Spanish times.  We goofed off at the Ripley’s (Believe it or Not) Museum, then were entertained local style at the drinkin’ (& pickup) bar, Trade Winds.  We also sat in a nearby park for an evening of free Country & Western.  All good tonic for weary, overwrought sailors.

Touchin' dat Mud

Daytona to St Augustine: 4 Aug 09

Fort Matanzas

We had been doing soooooo well!  We had been soooooo careful to stay within the lines!  Smack! Bang!  Damn - we hit mud at a shoal between badly placed green markers (G81B) to red at Matanzas Inlet.  It was so bad we managed to connect at least 4 times before carefully feeling our way into deeper water.  By deeper, I mean at least 5-6 feet to get across the bar. I tell you, we said some nasty things about channel markers and their keepers that day!   

WJ3 and her motley crew were not happy campers!  Life had become depressingly focused on damages and repairs since entering the ICW.  We thought this was the “safe” route to travel north.  Don’t believe ‘em! 

We later learned that Matanzas is Spanish, meaning "massacre"...oh, fruit!!! 

  

 

From: Daytona, FL  Lat/Long: 29 11N  81 00W  Date/Time: 4/8/09: 0650

To: St Augustine, FL  Lat/Long: 29 53N  81 18W Date/Time: 4/8/09: 1530

Time Taken: 54nm (8.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 2909nm (398.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2858nm  (576.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**

Weather: kts;  Seas ft;  Swell; Evening thunderstorms continue except for last 2 nights

(** Motor sailing; 12 fixed bridges; 1 overhead power lines; hit ground (about 4 times at Matanzas Inlet, Mile 794).  Danger, Will Robinson!

Pedal Power in Daytona

Titusville to Daytona: 25-27 Jul 09

Florida Reflections

Our voyage north took us to New Smyrna Beach where we sat for a couple of nights watching more dolphins, manatees and storms building on the horizon.  Manatees are seal-like, only bigger, with a face only their mothers could love!  It is nice to see so much wildlife and boat-life co-habiting relatively well.  I’m not sure that it’s a case of fast boats respecting no-speeding/or no-wake signs; it’s just that this huge river system and many wildlife reserves offers these animals lots of safe-havens.

Old & New in Daytona

WJ3 limped into Daytona (mile 830), nursing many an electrical problem.  It was time to see to her repairs.  The Cap’n duly signed us into downtown Halifax Harbour Marina for a week.  Great!  Daytona is home to speed car racing and custom-build motorbikes.  And last week they had a tornado!  Better strap WJ3 into her berth!  It’s only 6 more degrees north and we’re outa this nasty hurricane box.  Sigh!!

Yes, cars on beaches...

We enjoyed our stay in air-conditioned comfort at the dock, took long bike rides around town to find groceries and spent a lot of time in the local library using their internet service while Mike managed to sort out our electrical problems.  We took a ride to the world famous beach to see where they once raced cars; ate at Bubba Gump’s (remember Forest Gump?); got lost in downtown crackville and fortunately was saved by the Halifax Yacht Club Dockmaster; and finally, shopped for fresh goodies including “shrimp” at the Saturday Farmers Market.  Yes folks, all in the Florida summer heat!  We managed to replenish fluids and fun at the nearby dockside Aquarium Bar most evenings!  Quinn and Andy introduced us to American bar chat – it was just like being in an episode from the 80’s TV show, “Cheers”!!

Bikers on the Broadwalk in Deytona

 

From: Titusville, FL  Lat/Long: 28 37N  80 48W Date/Time: 25/7/09: 1115

To: Daytona, FL  Lat/Long: 29 11  81 00W Date/Time: 27/7/09: 1300

Time Taken: 46nm (10.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1955nm (390hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2804nm  (568hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**

Weather: kts;  Seas ft;  Swell; Evening thunderstorms

(** Motor sailing; 1 canal; 5 fixed bridges; 2 overhead power lines!)

Hot Diggity Dog

Spaced Out in Titusville

Strange things float in the ICW in the early morning...

Titusville deserves a special mention.  Not only because it’s the gateway to Kennedy Space Centre & Cape Canaveral complex but because it hosts the most amazing thunderstorms.  We’d set anchor out from the Municipal Marina and had dinner watching an amassing cloud bank, even taking pictures of huge lightning spears piercing nearby country-side.  Then suddenly it turned.  We watched from the cockpit in horror as it came quickly toward us.  The Cap’n stowed some electrical gear in the microwave (No, it wasn’t on!) for protection, turned everything off and disconnected anything electrical.  Cap’n Vigilant then stood in the cockpit (not holding anything metal) in the pouring rain, as if Zeus, warding off a lightning strike.

That means BIG trouble - Florida Hazard #2

Suddenly, bang, fizzle!  Sparks flew, GS screamed and the Cap’n swore.  We’d been hit!  For a few seconds, our fishing rods and horse-shoe life buoy appeared unseasonably decorated by Christmas sparklers.  Sadly, all that remained of our masthead VHF antenna and wind instruments lay charred in the cockpit; the stainless steel antenna bracket blackened and peeled like barbequed onion. With no time to waste, our Cap’n Resilient started an ever-growing (shopping) list of items to be replaced, including a VHF radio. Always the optimist!

Space Glove

Now, you can’t miss the giant Vehicular Assembly Building sitting proudly above a vast expanse of Merritt Island Wildlife Refuge.  After our “supernatural” experience, we decided to give science a go!  We hired a car – there are no scheduled buses.  Titusville doesn’t have a single community bus!  Nobody walks.  They all drive.  Nothing is convenient to anything else!  It’s truly amazing how shop owners make a living.  

Anyway, back to the KSC.  We had an interesting day poking old rocket bits, watching new parts being assembled and learning from IMAX 3D movies.  We toured the grounds (yes, even NASA has buses!), touched a piece of the moon and sat through a staged launch countdown.  It was interesting to hear how close the moon landing was to being aborted (20 Jul 69).  We ate lunch under Saturn V (the largest rocket ever made) and avoided kiddies on the newest “ride” – a vertical launch experience at 17500mph?!!  (Mmmm, actually that’s not such a bad idea!  Pay to have your kids propelled into outer space!  Now, where do I sign them up?)

We returned from KSC just in time for our evening’s entertainment – another growing thunderstorm.  The lightning just missed us this time, but gale force winds did not!  We could only hold on and hope that Bertha (a big 72lb Rocna) and lots of heavy chain would hold. 

“If we survive this,” said a decisive GS, “we are leaving Titusville tomorrow, very early.”  And so we did…

Where the Porpoise & Manatee Play

Cocoa to Titusville: 22-23 Jul 09

Hazards of Florida #1 (The gators, not me, silly!)

Just in case you thought we’d gotten away from it all, Rob & Lauren aboard “Arita”, motored in to pick up an mooring at Vero Beach.  Of course, Rob’s an aussie too!  We recognised it immediately by his loud cooee ringing around the cove!  Arita had been struck by lightning and was in need of repair to most of her electrical equipment.  We left them to it; wondering how many more aussies there were to meet!  Not that many more, surely! 

Our next port of call was Cocoa. Himself went ashore for a hardware store and found one; quite historic (operating since 1885) and well cared for.  The owner and his assortment of tools (also historic and well cared for) looked as if they were sets from a 50’s movie about dem ol’ days in Florida.  There was even a paddle steamer down on the river, another reminder of how life had once been. 

That's really a gator, folks!

We were on a section of the ICW called Indian River, which at times is as broad as a lake and others, crowded with small mangrove islands.  Fortunately the ICW markers are frequent and clear because the water outside the channel can vary to only a foot deep.  The Motley’s had subscribed to tow boat insurance at Vero Beach – an essential given one of nature’s better jokes (called shoaling) that seems to move indiscriminately across the channels at any whim.

Gator Bait?

Despite the river’s ups and downs, we saw plenty of dolphins and had our first manatee sightings.  A little further north of Titusville, as we crossed over the Haulover Canal into Mosquito Lagoon, we saw our first gator!  Not a little fellow either.  Amazingly, people were fishing nearby (waist deep in waders), skiing and otherwise having a great day by the river.  As you do in alligator infested waters!

From: Vero Beach, FL  Lat/Long: 27 39N  80 22W Date/Time: 22/7/09: 0745

To: Titusville, FL  Lat/Long: 28 37  80 48W Date/Time: 23/7/09: 1400

Time Taken: 74nm (11hrs)  Distance (this year): 1909nm (379.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2758nm  (557.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**

Weather: kts;  Seas ft;  Swell; Evening thunderstorms

(** Motor sailing; 5 opening & 9 fixed bridges; 9 overhead power lines!)

Jus Enuff

Vero Beach: 17-21 Jul 09

Moorings at Vero Beach

Motleys had decided to follow advice in “Passages South”. “Wait for weather, start early, get in early and hit all the stops on the way!”  That way of course, we made sure never to miss a leisurely sundowner!  On our first day, we had time for an ocean swim and a quick margarita (a classic Florida cocktail) with our new neighbours on their lovely cat (a manta 42).  We slept soundly to hit the ICW again, but early!  As the sun rose, off we steamed for Vero Beach!

Anchoring is not allowed in Vero Beach, so on “Searcher’s” advice, we took a mooring at a pretty little marina just off the Indian River.  The Vero Beach Municipal Marina (mile 952) has definite advantages - laundry, wifi, free bus to shopping centre, lively Riverside Café just under the bridge, dinghy dock and lush green gardens.  It’s all so normal.  Can we stay here?  Our hearty Caribbean “good morning” on the bus fell on deaf ears.  Welcome to the land of the impolite but free… but yes, we did stay. 

Trying to be helpful

We stayed to visit a super-large West Marine (a Bunnings-sized boat bits shop!); buy ourselves a couple of little red folding bikes; be amazed at real food (& lots of it) in Publix, a large supermarket; and dine out at the Driftwood Inn for dinner on the Atlantic ocean with Jim and Tammy.  Originally built in 1957 by Waldo Sexton for his family’s summer home, Driftwood is a rambling timber structure decorated at random with a ramshackle collection of Waldo's beach finds and depression-era auction purchases.  A perfect beach shack and more inspiration for Penawar renovations!  Now the Inn is converted into expensive timeshare apartments, although the place still oozes retro charm.

 A storm brewing over Vero Beach Marina 

We also stayed to celebrate himself’s significant birthday, although this time it was an in-house affair with a bottle of Aussie champers.  Celebration proper could wait for the arrival of Boy Wonder, who was to join us in a few weeks (perhaps).  Life can be really tough for these people who have a work schedule!!

From: Peck Lake, FL Lat/Long: 27 07N  80 08W Date/Time: 17/7/09: 0640

To: Vero Beach, FL   Lat/Long: 27 39N  80 22W Date/Time: 17/7/09: 1330
Time Taken: 40nm (7hrs)  Distance (this year): 1835nm (368.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 2684nm  (546.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**
Weather: Our first experience of "interesting" storm activity along the ICW
(** Motor sailing; 1 opening & 5 fixed bridges; 4 overhead power lines!)

Fearsome Creatures

Peck Lake: 16 Jul 09

Our first "On Demand" Bridge

The Motleys travelled only 27nm on our first day along the ICW.  Could we walk faster?  Quite easily!  Our Cap’n nervously negotiated and just scraped through the Blue Heron, then we went on to wait and circle fretfully at a following 7 opening bridges – some on a schedule (not ours, unfortunately) and others on demand.  We skirted shoals and followed waterway markers, which doubled as roosts for fearless pelicans and cormorants, busily fishing rivers and canals.  We avoided roaring hot water boats, kids galore on jet skis and fishermen with lines cast out in our narrow deep water stretch.  Size didn’t count for anything, so our skipper put out our sails.  Now they all had to give way to us….. (Insert evil laugh here!!)

Swimming in the Gulf Stream at Peck Lake
trying to avoid dive bombing pelicans

At Jupiter Inlet, we came across a Vero Beach based trawler, “Searcher”.  A bit of local knowledge we hoped, so into his wake we stepped.  What a great idea to stay in the deepest part of the channel!  This channel called the ICW is wide enough for two boats to pass comfortably (in most places) although depths can regularly vary between 7 to 12 feet.  Towboat US patrols up and down its length, hungrily waiting for losers who come to a muddy grounding in the very often deceptively shoal waters.

Beach near Peck Lake

The Intracoastal Waterway is a huge connecting system of canals, lakes and locks that can take you from Mexico, around Florida and on to & through Chesapeake Bay.  Many boaters, including Canadians travel south along the section we were on, the Atlantic ICW, to get to and from Bahamas jump-off points or simply to spend a few months “wintering” in balmy Florida Keys waters.  Others, called Loopers, use the ICW in their circumnavigation of the Eastern US, and then move on through other canal systems into the Great Lakes and Mississippi River.  All of course, without needing to negotiate deep, open ocean waters with those nasty wavy things. 

Whatever do these clouds mean?

The ICW is a clearly marked narrow channel that threads its way along closely to coastal waters, past expensive homes on water-front canals, through many wild mangroves swamps and even into the heart of large cities.  It does need constant dredging to keep it open however.  This never-ending project is given over to the US Corps of Engineers who have been occupied with it ever since the 1930’s. 

Angry Osprey gives us a telling off!

We ended our first day at Peck Lake (mile 992) with relief; set a date with “Searcher's” Jim and Tammy to meet again in Vero Beach and promptly anchored.  “Yoo-hoo!” called our neighbours on Anything Goes.  “Is that Sydney, Australia?  We’re Peter and Julie from Brisbane!”  Columbus couldn’t have done better!!

From: Lake Worth  FL Lat/Long: 26 45N  80 03W Date/Time: 16/7/09: 0710

To: Peck Lake, FL Lat/Long: 27 07N  80 08W Date/Time: 16/7/09: 1430

Time Taken: 27nm (7.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1795nm (361.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2644nm  (539.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5-7kts**

Weather: Florida sunshine

(** Motoring; 1 opening & 5 fixed bridges; 4 overhead power lines. All without mishap!)

Slidin' Up the ICW

Wagons Ho!

West End Bahamas to USA, West Palm Beach: 14 Jul 09

Everything's big in America including the cocktails

Given the number of large boats, both power and cruise-ship varieties, travelling over the Gulf Stream, the Motleys planned a daytime crossing.  “All the better for Mr Coast Guard to see you!”  Again, despite many fears expressed by others, the Gulf Stream for us was another lengthy motor across a glassy surface.  Even our wake stretched out far behind us to the horizon….

We did happen upon the Coast Guard….  After answering 10/10 correctly, our Cap’n breathed a sigh of relief when “no boarding necessary” was determined.  We were later buzzed by a low flying aircraft; then a dark grey rib gave us the once-around!  Perhaps border patrol is taken more seriously here and not just aired weekly on television as a comedy show.  Oh, it’s drama…really?

Palm Beach Mansions

Yes, we have to confess we were happy to see tower blocks, traffic and busy narrow waterways again.  Sad really!  Cap’n negotiated our way along our first mile of the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) to our anchorage (mile 1019) in Lake Worth.  We admired the very grand houses of Palm Beach on one side and very grand marinas on the other.  In our later search for Customs and groceries we were shooed away from on very grand marina – “security reasons, sir” (yep, sure!).  Riviera Marina was more for the likes of us; they even had a dingy dock, a sure-sign welcome mat!  They also had a nearby restaurant, so for the first time in 5 weeks (& 3 days), we ate out!  Not that GS was counting!  Our stock of tinned provisions and clean clothes was rapidly diminishing!

Scraping under the Blue Heron

During our dinghy meanderings, the Cap’n sized up our next challenge – a fixed bridge, the Blue Heron.  Standing at 65ft above high water, we hoped that WJ3’s mast (63ft with wind instruments & antennas sitting proudly above that!) would really make it under.  A couple of yachts with broken masts sat sadly at anchor nearby; grim reminders of those who didn’t.  What had we done????

From: West End, Bahamas   Lat/Long: 26 42N  78 59W Date/Time: 14/7/09: 0515

To: West Palm Beach, USA  Lat/Long: 26 45N  80 03W Date/Time: 14/7/09: 1340

Time Taken: 55nm (8.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1768nm (354hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 2617nm  (532hrs)   Fastest Speed: 9.5kts**

Weather: Winds ESE  8-12kts;  Seas 2-3ft;  Swell generally E

(Gulf Stream adds 2.5kts to our speed!  Sure is some river of water!)