At Long Long Last

Looking Pretty Dockside in Gibraltar 2012

At long last, "Windjammer: Previous Passages" has settled into Blogger as its new home.  This blog chronicles our sailing trip through the Caribbean to East Coast USA via the Bahamas from 2008 to 2010. 

Nearly all transfer chores have been done and the Typepad account no longer exists.  Sadly any comments left on either Vox or Typepad have long since disappeared so we  were unable to have them transfered too.  If you can remember what messages you left, please resend them.  Although we can't always reply, we do look forward to various pithy comments sent to cheer us on our way!

Cap'n & Crew, Antigua  2008

We've also added a Ready Reference to direct you to posts that cover our various destinations.  We've updated all photos, added a few extras, including some maps to make it a bit more interesting.

Windjammer's adventures continue (in the Med!!!) on our current blog.  Link on the right as always.  So too is our Map & Tracker, an ingenious "where's windjammer now" which allows you a birds eye view of all our stops along the way.  (As long as I've got the chart readings right that is!).  Our photo albums live on WJ3's newer blog too, so if it's photo overload you're seeking on a dull TV day, then this is just the ticket. 

GS.  Always feeding somebody.  Bahamas 2009

We continue to be inspired by people we meet along the way and it always surprises us to see so many Aussies; some doing very game and adventurous things, others like us just enjoying the day cruise with a few overnight hops here & there! 

Finally, thank you all for your encouraging comments. We hope you will continue to join us on the high (and low) seas as we potter about in a boat.  There's still a few more years (sailing seasons) left in us yet and who knows where we will be by then. 

Maine 2010

So enjoy reminiscing with us

Gibraltar 2012

Patuxent River Piranha

Solomons Maritme Museum Lighthouse

What did we do in the Solomons? Sheltered from the storm, froze to death, cooked baked dinners so the oven would heat the cabin at night, found a supermarket so we wouldn’t starve and finally visited their very interesting maritime museum. Now every town on the Chesapeake has a maritime history and most sport a museum, but this one is exceptional.

We strolled through local maritime and area history; many of the exhibits have been donated by local watermen and their families. The exhibition hall has a huge variety of displays including very old outboard engines, models of character craft that plied the waterways, such as a 250 seat theatre, and today’s feature exhibit, a tank of live rays and skates. Docents, all volunteers, knew their stuff and actually made it interesting. They also get to supervise a discovery room where children can hoist sails in a skiff, climb a lighthouse model (& turn the lamp on) or explore a touchtank full of squishy fishies. We looked for crabs in the marsh, watched two fat & happy otters perform like spoilt kids, and gazed at estuariums full of local marine life. We climbed the Drum Point Lighthouse (1883) to the lantern room and were surprised at how much “living” space the lighthouse had. (GS took measurements for a Dangar prototype.) Most fascinating were the (20 million year old) fossils taken from nearby Calvert Cliffs. Coming eye to mouth with 37½ feet of megalodon, a shark ancestor & one of only two in the world, made our white pointers look somewhat docile.

37 feet of teeth

The fun was nearly over - time to make our way to Jackson Creek and WJ3’s winter home. We set sail early leaving with a crowd of migrating locals. Like their namesakes (snow geese) they honked and fussed all day; the VHF rarely silent. All the way back down the Bay Cap’n & GS wished they could remember the words to that truckin’ song “Mercy sakes alive, looks like we got us a connnn vvvvoy…”. (Apologies to CW Mcall) 

Unbelievable but true for an early start! It’s still quite dark at 7am. (No wonder we’ve been sleeping so late!)

From: Solomons Island, MD Lat/Long: 38 19N 76 27W  Date/Time: 19/10/10: 0715

To: Deltaville, VA  Lat/Long: 37 32N  76 19W  Date/Time: 19/10/10: 1605
Time Taken: 60nm (9.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1736nm (303hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 5376nm (1002hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7.6kts
Weather: Winds E starting 25kts down to 3kts; Seas 1-2ft;

In case you missed the above figures, we’ve done an astonishing 1736nm (303 hrs) again this year!

One Spy Kit to Go

The weather forecast promised a few more days of non-sailing weather, so rather than attempt a trip bashing into high seas off the Atlantic coast, we opted for a faster, dryer mode of transport – the train - and roared off down to Washington DC.   Washington is on the Potomac River, a goodly way upstream and we would need time (a week) to get WJ3 up there.  So, two returns on Amtrak, thanks.  No luggage for Red Caps (porters) either.  (This train system puts ours to shame, thanks for asking!).  We stayed centrally (easy walking) at the Crown Plaza and had a few days to do the sights & sites!

Aussie mates, Warren & Dominique took us on a drive out to historical Bull Run.  Virginia is just steeped in history and the effort made to conserve it, both by government & local interest groups is noteworthy.  We took a guided tour around a battlefield smaller than most farms before sneaking past W&D’s house (not to disturb their dogs guarding his Corvette), then headed off to Oldtown for a few quiet ales in a character Irish pub.

Over the next few days, Cap’n & crew managed to sit together on an informative trolley tour of town, then head their separate ways.  Cap’n Bond went straight for the Spy Museum, ended up at the Smithsonian Portrait Gallery, then went all military again; over to Arlington Cemetery, Lincoln Memorial and the Vietnam Memorial.  The First Mate made a b-line for the Textile Museum and had a sneak peek at an upcoming ikat exhibition; from there to another boutique museum, Women in Arts, then over to the Renwick Gallery and finally a stroll around The White House perimeter.  Cap’n & GS met each day to exchange noteworthy frippery over a few ales at the Capital City Brewing Company, one of few “shopfronts” in a city seemingly of government offices and museums.  The Prez couldn’t make it to drinks; he had a bit of a bash going on at ‘ome…

We caught the subway over to the Pentagon and, through a barrage of security warnings and great lists of don’ts, visited the 9/11 Memorial.  We had come to pay our respects to friend Yvonne Kennedy, who was on the aircraft that crashed into the Pentagon in 2000.  This memorial is a fitting and subtle homage to those who died.  It is hard to believe ten years have since passed.

All that Glitters IS New York

Having tucked WJ3 safely on her RCYC mooring, the Motleys held an “open boat”, welcoming many including Max, who had been following us down the coast from Maine in his truck & caravan (trailer in local lingo).  Alan brought an entourage as well; we impressed them with the RCYC launch service out to the mooring and GS piped ‘em aboard with a piercing whistle.

Even the Swan Family popped by at Great Kills

The promised bad weather set in the next day – the day we were travelling by bus to Manhattan.  We arrived wet and smelly on Al’s doorstep, not before having been sussed out twice by strategically placed doormen.  Security’s big in New York….(see something, say something).

Wet weather continued yet we persisted with our social program of visiting friends and museums.  The Cap’n continued with his nautical themed tours to South Street Seaport (not a patch on Mystic), strutted the decks of aircraft carrier Intrepid and explored close quarters of a nearby submarine.  As we now have our own “fleet” of 6, perhaps he really is due for promotion to Admiral?  Briefly tiring of nauticalities, he went in search of something more nauti – yes, the Se(x) Museum really exists and afterwards to an exhibit of body bits, some cut into dainty, thin slices.

Fabulous Folk Art Museum

GS had loftier, more arty things in mind, so headed off to the Folk Art Museum with a little detour via Macy’s, a walk past 5^th Ave designer shops and lots of coffee/cake in nice little bookstores.  Having a whole day in the Met again, she still did not cover more than a third – the Japanese section even has its own reading room and library for goodness sake!!  Annette, a friend from Delhi daze, led us on a merry chase to look at bead shops full of tempting sparklers.  As if our Jain Jeweller in Old Delhi had not sold us enough goodies!  Not to be outdone, GS produced a list of NYC quilting supply shops (including City Quilter & Purl Soho) which managed to keep us dry & out of the rain.  We lunched in Sullivan Street and had time to explore a little of Chinatown & Little Italy precincts on our way back to the bus.  Later over a delicious home-cooked dinner (yes, it can happen in NY), George told us the best places to buy hiking boots and fountain pens.  WJ3’s lockers are just bursting with goodies…..

Sotherby’s is just around the corner from Al’s.  We decided to buy some wine (anniversary champagne) and went upstairs to view auction items.  WOW and I say again, wow!  Sale items varied from Custer’s Colours (flag) from the famous Last Stand battle, a floor of Modernist & Impressionist paintings (Arp, Picasso, Dufy), a few Henry Moore Sculptures and even some folk art being sold off by Museums to fund more lucrative exhibit purchases.  There were two floors of estate furniture, including a silver swing (from some exotic Sultan’s palace no doubt) and several life size Moorish figures perfect for holding ferns in your conservatory or an afternoon cuppa & cucumber sangers.  Another floor held some fabulous photos by masters of the art - Ansel  Adams. Man Ray, Edward Weston, Robert Maplethorpe, Edward S Curtis.  Curtis did those stunning portraits of American Indians.  There were also several iconic NYC steel worker pieces and a striking coloured portrait of Frieda Kallo.  All these wonderful things to buy!  The Cap’n hid our cheque book, cut up the credit card and put title deeds for Penawar & WJ3 into a locked safe.  Gackkkkkkk!

Even More Wooden Boats

Charles W Morgan 1841

The star attraction of Mystic is without doubt, Mystic Seaport.  This museum encompasses 19 acres of shipbuilding history, much of it in situ back in the 1800’s.  Two shipbuilding yards operated on this site; one as early as 1837 and the other 1851.  Mystic Seaport has been set up to preserve, collect and exhibit everything nautical that represented a way of life in a small 19^th century coastal community.

We started with the lumber yard and sawmill (it’s a family thing) where great chunks of live oak and other timbers are cut and shaped into (big) timber boat skeletons.  This area is known as the preservation shipyard and currently, Charles W Morgan (1841), the only surviving whaling ship of its kind, is being restored - to the tune of some $5 million and much patient hand scraping by a couple of young shipwrights.  (GS promised never to complain about antifouling again!)

Further on, a small cove was lined with visiting historic schooners, some privately owned and open for inspection.  Squeezed in between was Sabino, a vintage steamboat taking visitors on jaunty cruises along Mystic River, just as it would have done in 1908.  A graceful oyster boat was docked ready for work at the oyster shack.  Oystering is slightly different here in that sea beds are collected by tonging or dredging, whereas we grow ‘em on trays (with a slice of lemon). (sorry!)

The 19^th century seafaring village is well stocked with artefacts and, short of lots of sailors, noise and not-so-exciting smells, you can picture how life must have been.  Sail lofts, salmon shacks, rope walks, coopers, ships (black) smith and the inevitable tavern are all authentic buildings.  We heard music and songs of the sea and shore wafting over the village green, then moved on to hear tales of heroic lighthouse keepers given in a replica lighthouse’s small auditorium – 12 people, standing room only!  We boarded tall ship, Joseph Conrad (1882) – now a youth training ship, and admired another, L A Dutton, then rounded off the day with stories of seafaring lives (past & present) and came face-to-face with mysterious figureheads, billetheads and catheads (not actually cats you understand).

We did not however, rush to attend a “Lobstering out of Noank” activity at the lobster shack…. we'd had and seen enough of lobster pots for a while!

Relax Lah!

You know the drill – up early and motor endless hours in either no wind or wind on the nose watching for lobster pots….  Two exciting things did happen.  First (we think) we saw a sun fish; one of those huge floating flat disks that often cause keels or masts to fall off on Sydney to Hobart’s.  It was nosing about, munching on jellies no doubt, when we came close by.  It wasn’t fussed and kept on about its business, huge dorsal fin bobbing about in our wake long after we had left.  The next exciting thing was doing 9.8kts through the Cape Cod Canal.  Talk about a roller coaster ride – we had, at fastest & with a strong current, been doing 6.6kts along the coast!  Wahooeeeee!

Zipping along Cape Cod Canal

All this speed meant we reached Woods Hole in time to hear the Coast Guard announce a small boat alert and more storms.  Great!  We managed to secure a spot deeper into Hadleys than last time, much to the annoyance of a big blue power boat who came in on our tail.  Despite those warnings, we woke in the early morning to a mill pond, the other occupants of which did not appreciate our early (Saturday) morning engine noise and clanking 100 feet of rusty chain.  GS didn’t have to shout rude remarks to a deaf Cap’n as she hauled up the anchor, so at least they were spared that.

Passing Traffic on the Cape Cod Canal

We noticed that the sea water was changing back to a nice tobacco brown shade, the sun was warming and we were back to t-shirts & shorts.  A nice big swell was rolling in courtesy of Hurricane Igor, busy pummelling Bermuda, as we crossed sacred waters (America’s Cup battleground) out of Newport, Rhode Island and said a few quiet Hail Mary’s.  Perhaps one day the competition would come back to planet earth and sailing; money, ego and power, wouldn’t be the important things at stake.

River-side viewing from our cafe on Mystic River

The Motleys set their sights on Mystic Seaport and I think it might be safe to say that we actually did some sailing.  We surfed past Watch Hill into Fishers Island Sound along with a catamaran named “Breaking Wind” imagining their VHF radio conversations with officialdom.  This kept us amused for a good couple of hours until we pulled into Noank Village Boatyard, up a lazy Mystic River.  The Boatyard has the best hot showers!  Let me tell you, there is something special about free-flowing hot water in a generously sized cubicle that is reviving.  That and a nice cold beer set us up.  Just what the doctor ordered!

From: Scituate, MA  Lat/Long: 42 12N  70 43W  Date/Time: 18/9/10: 0620

To: Mystic, CT  Lat/Long: 41 19N  71 58W  Date/Time: 19/9/10: 1635
Time Taken: 113nm (17.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1191nm (216.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4831nm (915.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 9.8kts**
Weather: Winds turning SW 10-15kts; Seas 3-5ft; Rhode Island Sound seas 4 -7ft
(**Cape Cod Canal of course!; then back to 6.6kts)

Lobster Central

Portland is Maine’s largest city and located in Casco Bay, another island, rock ledge, lighthouse and lobster pot filled waterway.  Curiously, one nasty ledge was called Junk of Pork; we’d like to know what that was all about!  As we rounded the marks into Peakes Island, a little out of Portland’s busy harbour, we were greeted by a curious little harbor seal.  We never did see any seal colonies but oh well, you just can’t have it all….

This is why we liked Maine

Portland is a very busy harbour, being the only ice-free (brrrrrrr!!) one in the Bay.  (Did we happen to mention that we were wearing our fleecies, thick sailing jackets, gloves and beanies now?  GS was in her thermals too!  We wanted cold – we got it!)  Still, that didn’t stop us from exploring Portland; on land it was a little warmer.  Bruce took us safely over to DiMillos where we could leave him for $10 a day – cheap babysitting really!  From there we explored the cobbled streets of the old port and took a trolley tour to learn about the city’s heritage, drive passed the home of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and visit a working historically listed lighthouse.  Although lobster could be had from the fish markets for $6 a pound (uncooked), we decided over a few brews at Gritty’s (yet another Irish pub) that we would try a curry.  Yes – it was worth it and the naan was melt-in-your-mouth.

We didn’t get to the Museum of Art but, in some ways, it came to us.  Portland supports a thriving College of Art.  We saw more tattoos and piercings per female and more skin heads than you would have expected – that’s art!  Street and shop signage was amazing and sculptures graced every available vacant space.  Portland was trendy, vibrant and compact.  We loved it!  But it was time to hit the road.

Art on the Sidewalk
(and it really is a piece of Berlin's famous Wall) 

From: Portland, ME  Lat/Long: 43 39N  70 12W  Date/Time: 15/9/10: 0830

To: Isle of Shoals, NH  Lat/Long: 42 58N  70 36W  Date/Time: 15/9/10: 1645
Time Taken: 47nm (8.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1029nm (191hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4669nm (890hrs)   Fastest Speed: See Note**
Weather: Winds NW 10-15kts G20kts; Seas 3-5ft; overcast; bumpy into the night
(** Did our usual 5-6kts; did a little sailing today too; cutter rig works well)

Maine Event

We had chosen Mt Desert to leap into our Maine cruising schedule.  The area is considered “quintessential” Maine.  Acadia National Park covers much of the island and elsewhere, stately homes owned by the likes of Martha Stewart, sit in stands of pines along rocky granite bays - inspiration to wordsmiths, artists and even left-brainers.

Acadia National Park, Mt Desert Island

Mt Desert’s wild beauty has always attracted the wealthy; the Astors, Fords, Carnegies, Rockefellers and Vanderbilts were among those who retreated to their summer “cottages” to partake of Maine’s cool air, pristine hiking trails and chilly waters.  Mt Desert’s first recorded sighting by Europeans was as early as 1524 and Samuel de Champlain formally named the island in 1604; it was part of “New France”.  The island’s interests were then held by the French for many years until after the Revolutionary War.  Preservation came much later but under the leadership of George B Dorr who, inspired by Mt Desert’s rugged beauty, encouraged land and financial donations to preserve it.  In 1916, 6000 acres became a designated national park.  Artists, naturalists, campers and rusticators (summer people) made the island a fashionable retreat until a devastating fire in 1947 consumed many homes and much of the woodlands.  The park, long since recovered, has some 35,000 acres to explore, including smaller islands off the coast.  Cars can traverse some of the roads and byways, but it’s much better to take a horse & carriage or ride the LL Bean eco-buses (gas powered).

Bar Harbor

The Motleys had already covered one of Mt Desert’s famed harbours, Southwest, and now sailed Somes Sound in search of shelter.  After Earl’s terrible tantrum, we spent a few pleasant days – true gunkholing – watching bald eagles fly, kayakers paddle about nooks & crannies, gorgeous sunsets and people swim (including our Cap’n but he is a Victorian) in the oh, so clean waters.  Then it was on to Northeast Harbor to pick up a mooring ball.  This harbour too was pretty; we were tempted to stay a few days.  The village and its conveniences were only a step away, including a fabulous library (with free wifi & a fireplace) and an island explorer bus stop.

We stepped aboard to take the scenic loop road – 27 miles past Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan & Bubble Ponds and Cadillac Mountain.  We didn’t hike on account of GS’s still recovering ankle but the drive was nice.  Bar Harbor retains its quaint village atmosphere despite the influx of tourists (millions), including glamorous passenger ships nearly every other day in season.  You could tell the difference between cruisers and cruisers.  We had that windswept, clothes more than 3 days old, unshaved look…  GS poked around in touristy shops and even found a quilt shop to buy a few Maine themed prints – moose, bears, eagles, pinecones etc.  There’s a zoo close by with the real thing (moose, bears etc) in Trenton across from Mt Desert, but we had come to our “turnaround” time.

Northeast Harbor

One of the joys of sailing is catching up, often unexpectedly, with friends you meet along the way.  “Cricket” (home to Pam, Ben & lovely Lila) had also spent some time in Deltaville Boatyard.  They set sail a little earlier in the season, so it was fun to catch up and compare ports of call and sights seen.  They were on their way to Rockport to have some electrical work done before heading back down to the Chesapeake – maybe.  See you on the water!

From: Somes Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 21N  68 19W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1130
To: Northeast Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 17N  68 16W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1330
Time Taken: 7nm (2hrs)  Distance (this year): 825nm (157.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4465nm (856.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: See Note**
Weather: Winds SW 10-15kts G20kts; Seas 1-3ft; a bit of a slop on the Sound
(** Motored back down Somes Sound (into the sun) dodging lobster pots!)

Cape Cod Legs

Actually Cape Cod is shaped a bit like a body-builder’s muscled-up arm.  But more on that later…

Block Island - the place to be seen

First stop after launching ourselves out of Greenport’s secure Stirling Harbor, was Block Island, a gateway if you will to the world famous Narragansett Bay.  Yes, that’s Newport, Rhode Island, folks…home to America’s Cup.  And yes, we probably have lost interest since those heady days in 1984 when we actually won it.  You wouldn’t recognise those “yachts” now, they look sculptural and sleek – perfectly at home on the lawn of some museum of contemporary art.  Or in Melbourne, on that nice new freeway to outatown.

Newport is a bit like Pitt Street on a bad day, so we hooked into Block Island – a cosy weekend retreat for Rhode Island locals (remember those Store Beach weekends).  We didn’t stay to explore the Island but did enjoy the evening’s VHF16 comedy with the rest of the anchorage.  Seems a light plane was buzzing boaters and people on the beach.  Reports were filtering into the Coasties of this dangerous behaviour.  Some local hoon was adding his own anonymous (perhaps serious) contribution to the mix of hysterics and hysteria… "load dat gun and shoot deh mother#$%&*$”.  I thought we’d left the red-necks behind in down home Virginnie.

Woods Hole Museum

Next stop was home to marine science geeks, Woods Hole.  The current that runs here has to be seen to be believed; so too are the speedy ferries.  We anchored well out of the action, but given a wind change, we moved deeper into Hadley Harbor and calmer waters.  Wise move.  Our bumpy dinghy ride into Woods Hole was like a jet boat “jumpabout” ride.  Still, we liked Woods Hole and explored its free aquarium, its university-style buildings, laboratories and grounds and met some wonderful folks who were justifiably proud of their museum.  They told us that Hyannis nearby was the first holiday home of the Kennedy clan.  Cape Cod, with surrounding islands, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, had been (and continues to be) destination central for the seriously wealthy.

Whoosh Trolley

We jumped aboard the local whoosh trolley for a quick ride into Falmouth to restock our larder.  GS has seen an antiques market on the way in but decided not to stop.  Of course on the way out, she spied a stall of antique quilts and blocks.  STOP the bus….stop. the ….  too late!!  Oh Nooooooooooo!!   Never mind, a few beers watching the sun go down and listening to a band (free) strum, crooning tunes for university intellectuals…”she ‘ad skin like spinach an’ greens an’ her kiss like ham an’ beans” took her mind off it anyway.

Pie in the Sky (but not our local at Cowan)

From: Greenport, LI  Lat/Long: 40 57N  73 05W  Date/Time: 26/8/10: 0900
To: Woods Hole, MA   Lat/Long: 41 30N  70 42W  Date/Time: 27/8/10: 1350
Time Taken: 81nm (16.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 598nm (117.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4238nm  (816.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 6kts**
Weather: Winds W-NW 5-15kts G 20kts; Seas 2-4ft; clear
(** Sailing – doing 6kts; a good few days sailing; some motoring)

A Royal Invitation

 Governor's Palace - A Guided Tour: 19 July 10

By now you are probably fed up with our historical posts, but we’ll finish on a high with the Governor’s Palace (and a few bits of Colonial Williamsburg fabric too).  We had walked to the Palace via the old plantation to be on the first tour of the day.  We were lucky to be let in, so the parlour maid told us, as everyone was busy preparing for a ball that evening.  But as we were special guests, she would show us around so that we would know what to do when arriving for the ball later that evening. 

Fancy Ballroom with very vivid Carpet

First however, lessons in a proper curtsey – just in case his Lordship happened upon us while we were in the house.  Apparently the house had been recently renovated by the new curator for Colonial Williamsburg.  He had asked that the Palace be more in keeping with the era.  Some approved, others did not!  Either way, it was absolutely stunning and the ballroom most impressive.

Her Ladyship's Bed Chamber

And Stately Grounds

The grounds were equally as inspiring.  We missed getting back to the kitchen where cooks were busy preparing for the evening’s feast or perhaps seeing musicians rehearsing for dancing.  We had to tear ourselves away, wishing just one or two hours more, to return our hire car on time and get back to the daily grind.  Just enough time to dash off and buy a few more fat 1/4’s. 

His Lordship's Collection

Meanwhile back at the Yard, the Opti kids had not destroyed too much of the marina and opti-mism was (up more or less) as was the temperature & humidity – still high 90’s to low 100’s.  Somehow we couldn’t even get up the enthusiasm to go to the Maritime Museum’s monthly music fest – Jumbo Lump Daddy and the Backfin Boys (I kid you not) were the feature act. Damn, now how lazy is that!   

Folk & Decorative Art

Colonial Williamsburg: 18 July 10

Oh yes, that is my town carriage

America is famous for its decorative and folk arts.  It is interesting to realise that years of isolation (more or less) from European influences led them to creative and local problem solving.  In a maritime sense, rather like the specialist log boats built for Chesapeake Bay fishing (see Deltaville Maritime Museum).

Basket Makers 

After our historical baptism, we took in more mundane domestic activities stopping at the Carpenter’s workshop (took me a while to get Cap’n Cabinetmaker outa there) and a brick factory sidestepping an invitation to work clay with our feet.  That’s where I lost him!  He went on to visit a gunsmith & foundry and then to the blacksmith whilst I took in the weavers and milliners.

This handsome chap also plays records

We did take an afternoon tour (yes, both of us – GS insisted) of The DeWitt Wallace Museum’s decorative highlights – this tour focusing on furnishings and clocks, then following that to see whimsical pieces in the adjoining Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum.  It is always more interesting when you know that something special about each piece.  The entrance to these collections is via the old hospital, one of the first for the mentally ill.  Sure glad we have different medical practices these days!

A rather nice teapot

While the Cap’n went elsewhere to play, GS wandered through collections of business signs and windvanes, admired a glittering carousel and found at last a small room of quilts.  Not all was lost however as a special exhibit of quilted clothing (mostly wholecloth petticoats) tempted serious quilters.  This time I had to get out my glasses to see those tiny stitches…oh, my!

Kings Arms - a dining experience

Our evening meal at the Kings Arms Tavern of game pie and Mrs Voles house chicken was complemented with a special selection of colonial “sides” like pickled corn, salt-cured ham, watermelon rind pickle and creamed spinach.  Musicians entertained us on elaborate spanish guitars and unusual mandolins (flat bottomed for easy transport). But, NO time for dessert, we had a TV in our room (after 2½ months, yahooie!) - Inspector Poirot was on.  The Captain was especially critical.

Rockfish back to Lafayette

Shenandoah Valley to Colonial Williamsburg: 17 July 10

Historic Landscape at Colonial Williamsburg

After spitting out of Rockfish Gap, we followed Karen’s advice (our GPS) and took the I64 back to Colonial Williamsburg to find a room for a night or two.  Woodlands Hotel was perfect – close to the Visitors Centre, had a regular free bus service to the Historic Downtown and was easily accessible to all Virginia’s Historic Triangle attractions.  Not that we needed more things to do!  Even a full day did not give us time to see all of Colonial Williamsburg’s attractions; but we did our best!

On Guard

Just to be clear, all the workers at these historic sites are period re-enactors.  That means their role is not to simply walk about in historical costume looking charming.  They are meant to engage with visitors and take them back to life in 18^th century Virginia when Williamsburg was Virginia’s capital and site of important events before and during the war of independence.  We were in taken back to 1776 - 1781 and became active Citizens at War.  Even our evening meal was no exception.  We dined at Chownings Tavern and were entertained by musicians playing a violin, a fife and a hurdy-gurdy.  Another encouraged gambols, a popular pastime of the day. Others told us gossip about the goings on at the Capitol and the rising burden of British taxes.

Citizens at War

We helped chart the Bill of Rights in the Capitol’s Burgess’s Meeting Room, gossiped politics over coffee in Charlton’s Coffeehouse all before gathering at the Capitol with other citizenry to hear the Declaration of Independence being read (26 July 1776).  Soldiers marched, bands played and we moved in closer to hear American turncoat General Benedict Arnold (20 April 1781) deliver a speech after the English seized Williamsburg.  The crowd booed and hissed, discontent was very apparent; soldiers tried to keep the crowd calm.  We were rather glad we didn’t have our Aussie flag T-shirts on with its apparent British connections!! (Our prepared storyline, if needed, was that Australia hadn’t been discovered yet – and anyway, we were only convicts!)

Prayin' for your Soul behind Charltons

Down behind Charlton’s Coffeehouse, we met for some preachin’ (well - it was a Sunday) and a little more discussion on matters of separation of church and state.  A young soldier expressed his hopes & fears about going to war.  He led us on to meet General George Washington (28 September 1781) who was keen for victory at Yorktown.  He rallied troops and citizens alike to support his efforts in front of the Raleigh Tavern. 

By george, It's George. Washington.

Later that evening, the Cap’n went to a public audience with Marquis De Lafayette to answer questions of the day.  Had we not had a dinner engagement at The Kings Arms Tavern later that evening, our Cap’n may just have enlisted WJ3 in support of the French Fleet.

Taking a Tour

Harrisonburg VA  16 July 10

Wall to wall Optis

The Cap’n downed tools and declared a rest day was due.  It had nothing to do with week-long Opti Nationals hosted by our Marina. (Translated that reads 300 kids and their tiny, snub-nose dinghy’s around the Marina and out in the Bay.  They launched just near C dock too.)  Hmmm?

We, like many of our transient comrades, hired a car and went away….far away!  After our previous driving adventures we couldn’t make it without a little road guidance.  So, first stop was Wal Mart (fortunately close-by) to buy a Garmin GPS.  Trust me; you also need a GPS in Wal Mart, and the similarly sized Home Depot next door.  Otherwise, days of your lives would just disappear in these cavernous shops.   

Joshua Wilton House

Harrisonburg, about 3.5 hours away, was our first port of call.  Harrisonburg is located in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley.  The area is famous for its Civil War landmarks, a lush Skyline Drive (Shenandoah National Park), its large Mennonite settlements (famous quilters) and most importantly, the Virginia Quilt Museum.  Aha!  So that’s it, eh?  You’ve noticed my cunning plan…

We stayed in the attractive Mauve Room

We stayed overnight in an historic B&B, the Joshua Wilton Inn (just across the road from the VQM).  A restored 1888 Victorian home, it looked a perfect setting for one of Alfred Hitchcock’s movies.  We had the Mauve Room, a lush four-poster and feather bed and many antiques that wouldn’t quite fit in my suitcase. 

We ate downtown but not before sampling Cally’s “flakes” of home-brew and nearly buying a “growler” (a 6 pack sized glass jug with ceramic stopper).  We dined at nearby Clementine’s; himself going all southern and having catfish, chilli black beans and grits.  The First Mate went all global and had linguini and shrimp, followed by a very tasty little crème brulee with fresh raspberries.  We finished in time to see the last half of a monthly, open air free concert, Jazz on Court Square. 

Jazz in the Park

Joshua Wilton served us up a splendid gourmet breakfast before GS raced off so as not to miss the 10am VQM opening.  This museum was indeed a feast for the eyes.  Their current exhibition included many of their older collection quilts, a room of antique sewing machines and quilts with Civil War significance, all nicely displayed with costumes and other period memorabilia.  No photos were allowed due to the age and condition of the textiles but I was able to purchase a lovely book as a memento.  Let me tell you, most quilter’s hand stitching was just so incredibly tiny.  (More on the VQM at textile tourist.)

Shenandoah Valley

After GS surfaced (some 2 hours later), our trusty Cap’n had done the town so we met for iced tea (vurrie suuurthern, sweeetie) in the Harrisonburg Information Centre located in the historic Hardesty-Higgins house.  Well, isn’t tea just the in-thing these days?  Just can’t make a good cuppa Queensland style though!

Rain squall at Elkton

We timed our departure well with a local rain squall and thunderstorm but found it cleared as we drove up past Elkton (the site of General Stonewall Jackson’s 1862 Headquarters) towards Swift Run Gap (2365’) and on to Skyline Drive.  The views over farmland are pretty, the tree-lined road would be even nicer in Autumn and the deer and the antelope play…  We stopped briefly at Loft Mountain and caught Ranger Bob’s talk about the local black bears - the closest we got to one was Ranger Bob’s ol’ bar-skeen.  We did find large flocks of Harley enthusiasts more of a worry than bears however.

Still, it was a nice day for a drive.