Moving to the Start Line....

Jackson Creek 30 July 10 (noon)

Puppy Love (Rosie)

Not wishing to overstay in Deltaville (11 weeks now was it??) we packed and positioned ourselves on “the start line”.  Decorated with new solar panels, a newly serviced engine and various other absolutely necessary commodities, WJ3 dropped anchor and some very, very rusty chain in muddy Jackson Creek. 

On anchor at last!

After some social days starting with dinner on board with Greg & Bev, who also have a Hunter 460 & are Aussies too, we were kindly invited to neighbour’s cocktails by Bill and Mary in their Jackson Creek boathouse.  The GS was kindly invited to the Sting Ray Quilters monthly meeting.  The odd bit of prep work was worked in around our social mores and then finally we set about throwing away our dock lines.  Only WJ3 caught us napping and threw a solenoid spanner in the works.  The solenoid belonged to the gas bottle and that meant, horror of all horrors, NO COFFEE….

A Working Deadrise

So we delayed for yet another day.  Meanwhile Hurricane Colin was threatening and predicted to head our way.  Life is never simple. 

(Editorial note:  We are sitting in Starbucks, Staten Island (yes - so close to NYC!) and it's the only internet we've had in a little while.  So you are getting posts now with photos to follow later when we have the luxury of wifi on an anchorage somewhere - anywhere!  Meanwhile I feel like I'm on the set of a Woody Allen movie.)

A Royal Invitation

 Governor's Palace - A Guided Tour: 19 July 10

By now you are probably fed up with our historical posts, but we’ll finish on a high with the Governor’s Palace (and a few bits of Colonial Williamsburg fabric too).  We had walked to the Palace via the old plantation to be on the first tour of the day.  We were lucky to be let in, so the parlour maid told us, as everyone was busy preparing for a ball that evening.  But as we were special guests, she would show us around so that we would know what to do when arriving for the ball later that evening. 

Fancy Ballroom with very vivid Carpet

First however, lessons in a proper curtsey – just in case his Lordship happened upon us while we were in the house.  Apparently the house had been recently renovated by the new curator for Colonial Williamsburg.  He had asked that the Palace be more in keeping with the era.  Some approved, others did not!  Either way, it was absolutely stunning and the ballroom most impressive.

Her Ladyship's Bed Chamber

And Stately Grounds

The grounds were equally as inspiring.  We missed getting back to the kitchen where cooks were busy preparing for the evening’s feast or perhaps seeing musicians rehearsing for dancing.  We had to tear ourselves away, wishing just one or two hours more, to return our hire car on time and get back to the daily grind.  Just enough time to dash off and buy a few more fat 1/4’s. 

His Lordship's Collection

Meanwhile back at the Yard, the Opti kids had not destroyed too much of the marina and opti-mism was (up more or less) as was the temperature & humidity – still high 90’s to low 100’s.  Somehow we couldn’t even get up the enthusiasm to go to the Maritime Museum’s monthly music fest – Jumbo Lump Daddy and the Backfin Boys (I kid you not) were the feature act. Damn, now how lazy is that!   

Folk & Decorative Art

Colonial Williamsburg: 18 July 10

Oh yes, that is my town carriage

America is famous for its decorative and folk arts.  It is interesting to realise that years of isolation (more or less) from European influences led them to creative and local problem solving.  In a maritime sense, rather like the specialist log boats built for Chesapeake Bay fishing (see Deltaville Maritime Museum).

Basket Makers 

After our historical baptism, we took in more mundane domestic activities stopping at the Carpenter’s workshop (took me a while to get Cap’n Cabinetmaker outa there) and a brick factory sidestepping an invitation to work clay with our feet.  That’s where I lost him!  He went on to visit a gunsmith & foundry and then to the blacksmith whilst I took in the weavers and milliners.

This handsome chap also plays records

We did take an afternoon tour (yes, both of us – GS insisted) of The DeWitt Wallace Museum’s decorative highlights – this tour focusing on furnishings and clocks, then following that to see whimsical pieces in the adjoining Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum.  It is always more interesting when you know that something special about each piece.  The entrance to these collections is via the old hospital, one of the first for the mentally ill.  Sure glad we have different medical practices these days!

A rather nice teapot

While the Cap’n went elsewhere to play, GS wandered through collections of business signs and windvanes, admired a glittering carousel and found at last a small room of quilts.  Not all was lost however as a special exhibit of quilted clothing (mostly wholecloth petticoats) tempted serious quilters.  This time I had to get out my glasses to see those tiny stitches…oh, my!

Kings Arms - a dining experience

Our evening meal at the Kings Arms Tavern of game pie and Mrs Voles house chicken was complemented with a special selection of colonial “sides” like pickled corn, salt-cured ham, watermelon rind pickle and creamed spinach.  Musicians entertained us on elaborate spanish guitars and unusual mandolins (flat bottomed for easy transport). But, NO time for dessert, we had a TV in our room (after 2½ months, yahooie!) - Inspector Poirot was on.  The Captain was especially critical.

Rockfish back to Lafayette

Shenandoah Valley to Colonial Williamsburg: 17 July 10

Historic Landscape at Colonial Williamsburg

After spitting out of Rockfish Gap, we followed Karen’s advice (our GPS) and took the I64 back to Colonial Williamsburg to find a room for a night or two.  Woodlands Hotel was perfect – close to the Visitors Centre, had a regular free bus service to the Historic Downtown and was easily accessible to all Virginia’s Historic Triangle attractions.  Not that we needed more things to do!  Even a full day did not give us time to see all of Colonial Williamsburg’s attractions; but we did our best!

On Guard

Just to be clear, all the workers at these historic sites are period re-enactors.  That means their role is not to simply walk about in historical costume looking charming.  They are meant to engage with visitors and take them back to life in 18^th century Virginia when Williamsburg was Virginia’s capital and site of important events before and during the war of independence.  We were in taken back to 1776 - 1781 and became active Citizens at War.  Even our evening meal was no exception.  We dined at Chownings Tavern and were entertained by musicians playing a violin, a fife and a hurdy-gurdy.  Another encouraged gambols, a popular pastime of the day. Others told us gossip about the goings on at the Capitol and the rising burden of British taxes.

Citizens at War

We helped chart the Bill of Rights in the Capitol’s Burgess’s Meeting Room, gossiped politics over coffee in Charlton’s Coffeehouse all before gathering at the Capitol with other citizenry to hear the Declaration of Independence being read (26 July 1776).  Soldiers marched, bands played and we moved in closer to hear American turncoat General Benedict Arnold (20 April 1781) deliver a speech after the English seized Williamsburg.  The crowd booed and hissed, discontent was very apparent; soldiers tried to keep the crowd calm.  We were rather glad we didn’t have our Aussie flag T-shirts on with its apparent British connections!! (Our prepared storyline, if needed, was that Australia hadn’t been discovered yet – and anyway, we were only convicts!)

Prayin' for your Soul behind Charltons

Down behind Charlton’s Coffeehouse, we met for some preachin’ (well - it was a Sunday) and a little more discussion on matters of separation of church and state.  A young soldier expressed his hopes & fears about going to war.  He led us on to meet General George Washington (28 September 1781) who was keen for victory at Yorktown.  He rallied troops and citizens alike to support his efforts in front of the Raleigh Tavern. 

By george, It's George. Washington.

Later that evening, the Cap’n went to a public audience with Marquis De Lafayette to answer questions of the day.  Had we not had a dinner engagement at The Kings Arms Tavern later that evening, our Cap’n may just have enlisted WJ3 in support of the French Fleet.

Taking a Tour

Harrisonburg VA  16 July 10

Wall to wall Optis

The Cap’n downed tools and declared a rest day was due.  It had nothing to do with week-long Opti Nationals hosted by our Marina. (Translated that reads 300 kids and their tiny, snub-nose dinghy’s around the Marina and out in the Bay.  They launched just near C dock too.)  Hmmm?

We, like many of our transient comrades, hired a car and went away….far away!  After our previous driving adventures we couldn’t make it without a little road guidance.  So, first stop was Wal Mart (fortunately close-by) to buy a Garmin GPS.  Trust me; you also need a GPS in Wal Mart, and the similarly sized Home Depot next door.  Otherwise, days of your lives would just disappear in these cavernous shops.   

Joshua Wilton House

Harrisonburg, about 3.5 hours away, was our first port of call.  Harrisonburg is located in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley.  The area is famous for its Civil War landmarks, a lush Skyline Drive (Shenandoah National Park), its large Mennonite settlements (famous quilters) and most importantly, the Virginia Quilt Museum.  Aha!  So that’s it, eh?  You’ve noticed my cunning plan…

We stayed in the attractive Mauve Room

We stayed overnight in an historic B&B, the Joshua Wilton Inn (just across the road from the VQM).  A restored 1888 Victorian home, it looked a perfect setting for one of Alfred Hitchcock’s movies.  We had the Mauve Room, a lush four-poster and feather bed and many antiques that wouldn’t quite fit in my suitcase. 

We ate downtown but not before sampling Cally’s “flakes” of home-brew and nearly buying a “growler” (a 6 pack sized glass jug with ceramic stopper).  We dined at nearby Clementine’s; himself going all southern and having catfish, chilli black beans and grits.  The First Mate went all global and had linguini and shrimp, followed by a very tasty little crème brulee with fresh raspberries.  We finished in time to see the last half of a monthly, open air free concert, Jazz on Court Square. 

Jazz in the Park

Joshua Wilton served us up a splendid gourmet breakfast before GS raced off so as not to miss the 10am VQM opening.  This museum was indeed a feast for the eyes.  Their current exhibition included many of their older collection quilts, a room of antique sewing machines and quilts with Civil War significance, all nicely displayed with costumes and other period memorabilia.  No photos were allowed due to the age and condition of the textiles but I was able to purchase a lovely book as a memento.  Let me tell you, most quilter’s hand stitching was just so incredibly tiny.  (More on the VQM at textile tourist.)

Shenandoah Valley

After GS surfaced (some 2 hours later), our trusty Cap’n had done the town so we met for iced tea (vurrie suuurthern, sweeetie) in the Harrisonburg Information Centre located in the historic Hardesty-Higgins house.  Well, isn’t tea just the in-thing these days?  Just can’t make a good cuppa Queensland style though!

Rain squall at Elkton

We timed our departure well with a local rain squall and thunderstorm but found it cleared as we drove up past Elkton (the site of General Stonewall Jackson’s 1862 Headquarters) towards Swift Run Gap (2365’) and on to Skyline Drive.  The views over farmland are pretty, the tree-lined road would be even nicer in Autumn and the deer and the antelope play…  We stopped briefly at Loft Mountain and caught Ranger Bob’s talk about the local black bears - the closest we got to one was Ranger Bob’s ol’ bar-skeen.  We did find large flocks of Harley enthusiasts more of a worry than bears however.

Still, it was a nice day for a drive.

End of the Trail

Yorktown to Deltaville: 13 Sep 09

The Motleys celebrated their last night in YRYH marina’s Crab Deck with friends Tim, Sherrie, Timothy and Sarah.  Chesapeake is famous for its crabs and we were not disappointed. After a casual & late Sunday start, WJ3’s engine was warmed up and off we went - the long and circuitous route to Deltaville (remember those shallow patches and ships channels?).

YRYH Marina up Sarah Creek

The weather was somewhat kinder; sails were set and we had lots of company.  Yes folks, people sail in this neck of the woods.  There’s the usual gin palaces though, for getting from one marina & restaurant to another in a hurry, but it was good to see so much sail & keel action happening.  The Chesapeake is quite wide at this point.  You can’t see one side from the other and certainly couldn’t get too close to land anyway - one of the disadvantages of shallow water cruising.  We knew however, from our Yorktown wanderings, that Virginia is very pretty.  Deltaville did not disappoint us.  A nice quiet little anchorage up a scenic creek overlooking a marina and WJ3’s new home. 

First Sighting of  Deltaville Marina

WJ3 has to be “winterized”, prepared for her cool climate boatyard, so we are now busy taking down sails, cleaning and changing oils etc – the not-so-fun stuff.  I’m sure the Cap’n will soon start his own boats & bobs blitherings (on our Hunter460 link) for all you people interested in the more technical aspects of boating….  Come on…there’s got to be at least one of you?

Wolf Trap

From this point on, Motleys are spending a week cleaning up and then setting off for New York – sure hope our friend there likes to see lots & lots of photos…..  Anyway, this will be our last post of the season, until we get home at least.  The Motleys gratefully thank all family & friends who have endured all our posts (& many photos) and have not been too upset when we haven’t sent timely replies to your emails.  Ah, the relentless quest for wifi…   It has been fun to have you along for the ride, so as to speak!  We’ve finally decided to come back next May to cruise further north, perhaps up as far Canada to do a little bear & moose trackin’.  While we’re so close, then why ever not?  Perhaps give us time for a few more chin ups in preparation for that Atlantic crossing the year after…

From: Yorktown, VA  Lat/Long: 37 14N  76 30W  Date/Time: 13/9/09: 1300

To: Deltaville, VA  Lat/Long: 37 32N  76 19W Date/Time: 13/9/09: 1845
Time Taken: 36nm (6hrs)  Distance (this year): 2791nm (521hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 3640nm  (699hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**
Weather: Winds NE 5-10kts; Seas 1-2ft; an assisting incoming tide
(** Mostly motoring with a little sail at times; avg 5-6kts)

Fallin' for Chesapeake

Norfolk to Yorktown: 9 Sep 09 

On Guard Duty at the Fort

This cold snap continued; 1st September marks the start of Fall (Autumn) so perhaps it’s really here to stay.  Nice not to be sweating day and night for a change…

Cottage Garden in the Fort, Yorktown

The weather cleared (a very little) so Cap’n Restless declares his intent to move on.  Rugged up in wet weather gear and jumpers, the Motleys made for Chesapeake Bay; dodging war ships, aircraft carriers, tug boats and tows down to the mouth of the Elizabeth River.  Looking back, even from more than a couple of miles out, you could not mistake the outline of those huge navy ships. 

Out on the Bay, our ride was really bumpy, the wind right on our nose (as always) and the waters very shallow.  We decided to stick to the main shipping channels for at least 20 - 40 feet of water, making our trip a lot longer but less testing…  Yorktown, up the York River, was our intended destination as we had a few days to kill before our scheduled arrival in Deltaville.  We arrived late at Yorktown Landing, picked up a nearby mooring and sat out a night of increasing slop. “What do you think of this mooring?” asked a cheery Cap’n the next morning.  “%#@&” replied GS.  “Should we stay at the Landing or go over to the Sarah Creek marina?” he asked.   “&%#@*, marina NOW”, said GS, popping another seasick pill.  And so it was, we pulled into the York River Yacht Haven, pier 4, bay 10.  Bliss; not so much as a ripple on the water – and it had a swimming pool!

Susan Constant at Dock' Yorktown

WJ3 at Dock, Sarah Creek

The weather continued to clear and warm up (just) so we took a free bus along a very scenic Colonial Parkway over to Jamestown Settlement, a little less than an hour away.  The Settlement is an historic park, not far from the site of the first English landing in 1607 on the James River. Aside from the usual museum, films and exhibits, staff dress in period costume typical of Colonial America and demonstrate how life would have been for those first 104 settlers.  We boarded replicas of colonial ships, marched through an early fort and watched soldiers fire muskets and cannons. Later, we chatted to friendly Indians in the Powhatan village about the not-so friendly things they did with sharpened oyster shells. 

Firing at Yorktown

The next day we had sun….  So we loaded our bikes up into the marina car and explored nearby Yorktown.  First stop was the Victory Centre, a similar set-up to Jamestown Settlement, where costumed guides walked us through life in a Continental Army encampment and a 1780’s farm.  Fires smoked, food was cooking and chickens roamed free.  Children are particularly encouraged with plenty of hands-on activities, although picking the apples was not one of them! 

Continental Army Camp

Saturday’s market down at Riverwalk Landing tempted us, so off we biked for a stroll around town.  We had coffee, tasted offerings at the market, looked at paintings and photographs for sale and visited most of the shops housed in cute period cottages.  GS also met an Airedale – a slim Coco lookalike - out for a stroll with her dad.  After the markets, we had a little time left so biked over to the Yorktown Battlefield, the site of the final major battle of the American Revolution in 1781.  Here, the British surrendered to American and French forces under the command of George Washington. This preserved site is quite large and visitors can drive (or bike if you’re game) between easily discernible battle lines. 

Two days was not enough of course, but the Motleys did their historical best…

From: Norfolk, VA  Lat/Long: 36 51N  76 18W  Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1030

To: Yorktown, VA  Lat/Long: 37 14N  76 30W Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1730
Time Taken: 60nm (7hrs)  Distance (this year): 2753nm (514hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 3604nm  (693hrs)   Fastest Speed: 4-5kts**
Weather: Some cloudiness & rain although clearing; strong NE on Chesapeake Bay motoring against tide and wind slowed us down
(** Mostly motoring with a little sail at times)

Cabin Fever

We saw tugs a plenty

It’s been raining solid for two days now. Bruce looks more like a kiddie’s inflatable wading pool.  Everything is grey and cold – a new sensation we’re not entirely prepared for.  The Miserable Motleys also still have the flu. 

Making new friends

We stayed on in Portsmouth after BW’s departure, with some expectation for the Labor Day weekend, and especially the Rendezvous, Mile Marker Zero festivities, where we understood hundreds of boats came in to celebrate.  Well, not this year.  It was, as the Cap’n said, an under-extravaganza.  So too was the Weekend Sidewalk Sale.  So here we sit, couped up with runny noses, pathetically coughing and sneezing!

We just wanted to share that with you - just in case you thought that life on board was always a bed of roses!!

Nautical Norfolk

Don't look now but it's heading straight for us...

At Norfolk, we threw out the hook and waited.  Waited for the weather to clear, waited for BW to catch his flight home, waited to get over BW’s flu legacy and waited for something entertaining…anything at all really. 

Portsmouth dates back to 1716 and has a more olde worlde feel than Norfolk, reminiscent of its English heritage.  The huge port complex now seems at odds with the charming old district and it’s hard to image that these great grey beasts and others have grown from an industry started by Portsmouth shipbuilders. 

USS Wisconsin

Norfolk and its sister city Portsmouth, offer Naval enthusiasts lots to do.  The Cap’n threw himself to the task, doing tours, taking rides and viewing museums, ports and battleships.  When done with the Navy, he turned to the Army and spent a day with General MacArthur.  Not with him as such, although he is buried on the site.  GS & BW skipped all that for the Mall and a movie, then found a bookshop with an inbuilt Starbucks…   

Oh look, the tide's come in

This is how we passed our days.  Sightseeing a little, shopping a little and trying to find a decent coffee or restaurant.  Finally found one in Portsmouth, Lobscouser.  Also found a supermarket for essentials close to the dingy wharf. Just as well, our bodies were starting to protest the appalling menus on offer (pulled pork is just hideous!).  Most weekends there was something going on in Town Park or The Landings; bands playing and people milling.  Of course, if all else failed we could get internet at Hooters.  Don’t ask!  GS declared Hooters a blonde joke in the making. 

Chrysler Museum of Art

GS, in a moment of triumph even managed to get the Cap’n to the Chrysler Museum of Art.  The Chrysler is renown for its superb collection of glass, including a huge Tiffany collection. You could not help but be fascinated by it. 

Fascinating History Lessons

They also had some really interesting if not macabre, pre-Columbian pieces, particularly pottery that had GS quite enthused.  Perhaps, just a little kiln on WJ3 wouldn’t hurt?  We could tie it on a raft behind Bruce.  Quite an odd little procession & not suitably nautical, me thinks.  Anyway, Cap’n Crafty declared himself full bottle on art galleries and except perhaps for the Louvre, he had seen enuff…for a lifetime!  Back to Hooters then….

Statistics, damn statistics & even more lies....

We began by heading up Island

Just for interest, we’ve calculated a few of our “so far” 09 miles:

Caribbean: Trinidad to Culebra, Spanish Virgins – 638nm (130hrs)

Bahamas: Culebra to West End – 1075nm (215.5hrs)

Gulf Stream Crossing: West End to West Palm Beach - 55nm (8.5 hrs)

Atlantic ICW: West Palm Beach to Norfolk - 927nm (153hrs)

Chesapeake Bay: Norfolk to Deltaville - 96nm (14hrs)

Grand Total this year 09:   2791nm – that’s some sailin’, folks!…

Then took an ICW tour through Florida to Chesapeake Bay
in Virginia.  Whoo hoo!  Map source

Of course, with our few misadventures and different stops than those planned (who could bypass Montserrat?), our schedule has taken longer than anticipated.  We will only see a little of lower Chesapeake Bay this year before laying up WJ3 in Deltaville.  

Still, that leaves plenty more for next year’s adventures! 

Proud Carolinas (Fort Sumter)

Just a reminder about our (almost) real-time tracker.  That's the last link over on your right, folks.   You do need Google Earth to be able to see it but we've been plotting our GPS positions on a world map as way points (on a sailing course) or as stops along the way (eg anchorages, moorings, marinas etc.).  Yes, I know that sounds really boring but you can actually zoom right down and get up almost as close as we were to these places. Smell the salt in the air, even!

Land Ho! The Industrial entry to Norfolk

Some of our postions are a wee bit out - a discrepancy between GE & the GPS I'm afraid - and we've not had the chance to correct them all.  At one stage, one of our flags was not far from Mumbai (Bombay)...  That was not a computer error!  Our poor mother thinks her kids are not only runaway sailors but Krishna ashram devotees too...