Free Beer Tomorrow

Stage 2  US Virgin Islands - St Kitts to St Croix: 8-9 Jun 09

Oh Look!  We match!

Despite earlier misgivings, St Croix turned out to be rather nice.  It has all the mod cons, the customs staff were helpful and the harbour not too congested.  On top of all that WJ3 had a bit of a play with a friendly pod of dolphins on the way in.  How nice!

Due to a little (more) engine trouble, the Motleys arrived in style – under sail – to drop anchor.  On-lookers must have thought we were either sailing purists or smart SOB’s.  Christiansted has a reputation as a difficult harbour and reef to negotiate at the best of times – only under good light and never at night, says the Pilot Guide.  Well, go the Aussies!  Yesssssss!

All the mod cons in the Virgins

We took advantage of nearby St Croix Marina to re-water, re-fuel and then hit the boat shop for a few essentials.  The Cap’n must have had shopping withdrawals…..  The GS feigned a continuing fever to avoid doing the grocery shopping and clothes washing – both of which the Cap’n managed to accomplish after a quick reconnoiter of Gallows Bay. 

We planned another day to take advantage of St Croix’s many dive sites and do a little historical walking tour of the lovely old town of Christiansted.  Now, what do they say about plans….yep, written in quick sand…..

From: Basseterre, St Kitts Lat/Long: 17 17N  62 43W  Date/Time: 8/6/09: 1100

To: Christiansted, St Croix  Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 9/6/09: 1315

Time Taken: 125nm (26hrs)  Distance (this year): 583nm (127.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1432nm  (295.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;

(**A little rolly & had engine trouble)

Chinese Laundry

Sugar Train round St Kitts: 7 Jun 09

Had we known that we were sailing into a washing machine, perhaps we would have stayed “surfing the net” at Pinney’s and had another superb meal (of mahi-mahi) at Double Deuce – the second best meal we’d had in the Caribbean.  Silly Motleys.

Town Centre St Kitts

None of the crew slept well that night.  Not even after downing several “Killer Bee” replicas (rum punch).  WE couldn’t wait to get off poor WJ3 who was jiggidy-ing round like a buckin’ bronco in Basseterre's exposed harbour.  St Kitts offered a round island trip on the only running (restored) sugar cane train in the Caribbean chain.  For many islands, sugar is a thing of the past but useful to shape yet another historical attraction for the thousands that come regularly on cruise liners.  We also wanted to see the highly recommended Brimstone Fortress, which is said to be second only to Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua. 

So, while a very green first mate clutched her stomach (after a tough night on the laundry), off went Cap’n Hale & Hearty in search of information and breakfast.  So, here’s how our visit to St Kits (as obvious tourists) went…. 

Sting 1:  “We don’t do breakfast here in St Kitts”, said the Marina Security Guard.  Well it was 7 (in the morning!). 

Sting 2:  The sugar train only runs on Saturdays - and only when the cruise ships come in.  Forget that – smelt just a little too Disney anyway!  

Sting 3:  “Brimstone Fort, sure!” said the taxi driver.  “Minimum 4 passengers; but I’ll take you both for $200 (that’s US$)”.  Mmmmm!  No thanks – let’s get out of here. 

We eventually did find breakfast at Ballahoo.  GS regained some of her colour over a strong coffee and pancakes.  “Welcome to St Kitts!” said the chatty, friendly man at the table next to us.  You’ll love it here so much, you won’t want to leave.” 

Sting 4:  He turned out to be a real estate salesman!  We were back on board, packed & gone by 11am….

Pack your bags. We are not staying here!

From: Charlestown, Nevis Lat/Long: 17 08N  62 38W  Date/Time: 7/6/09: 1400

To: Basseterre, St Kitts  Lat/Long: 17 17N  62 43W  Date/Time: 7/6/09: 1630
Time Taken: 11nm (2.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 458nm (91.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 1307nm  (269.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**
Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;
(**A doddle really.  Getting our groove back after 2 long legs)

Nevis. Island Fan-ta-sea

Double Deuce on Pinney’s: 5 Jun 09

Island Kingdom of Redonda

Are there times when you think our Cap’n has had just a bit too much sun?  Well, he says he saw a giant stingray leap out of the water on our way into Charlestown Harbour.  Of course he did…but it could also have been from listening to all those curious tales as we sailed past the Kingdom of Redonda....

Let’s get this straight!  Redonda is a rock.  One mile long and 1000 feet high.  In the middle of nowhere.  It did at one time have a post office – that’s about all other than a few hardy phosphate miners.  (Well now, isn’t that just the Brits for you.)  Its history started with an Irishman – one who had 8 daughters and one son.  He claimed Redonda in 1880 in the name of his son (so who needs daughters??), the first king.  His son is perhaps better known as English writer of Gothic romance, MP Shiel, whose writing has been described as dark and trippy...

Subsequently, the island passed through successive literary ownership; more to satisfy gambling debts it seems, rather than any serious reasons of bloodline.  Today however, it’s abandoned and mostly a curiosity.  Although present day King Robert (Bob the Bald), resides in near-by Antigua.  He still bestows annual honours & awards – literary, of course! 

Friendly or curious? Brown boobies circle us on our voyage

His current subjects are curious brown boobies who flew quiet closely around our rigging as we sailed by.  Still no fish to share!  Only a few nasty barracuda have taken our lure and the Cap'n is sick of pulling them off the hook and returning them. No nice kisses for these guys! 

Nevis is in sight

Nevis is a little laid back and very friendly.  Just a bit behind the times perhaps.  We scoured town to find a shop capable of scanning a couple of documents for us.  It was a lesson in patience. “What?”, said the smartly dressed girl.  “How do you expect me to get these” as she waved our sheets of paper at us, “in to this?” (a pen drive).  GS drew a short, sharp breath and surveyed the shop.  It was a modern communications shop – full of good minimalist design and little else.  It was an “Alice” moment and the GS was seeing red….  Cap’n suggested coffee to relieve the tension….  Despite this, we had the best and fasted broadband internet connection we’d ever had since being in the Caribbean.  Still no scans, but great internet...  So there you go!

Old but not historic

Charlestown itself has a long and interesting history dating from 1600’s, involving slave traders and plantation owners.  Lord Nelson was also drawn to the island, where in the 1780’s, he met and married the Governor’s daughter, Fanny Nesbit.  The Bath House (1778) was the first hotel built in the Caribbean.  Its springhouse (now closed) attracted many a fashionable spa-goer.  The town is a setting worthy of a Jane Austen novel.

 

From: Little Bay, Montserrat Lat/Long: 16 48N  62 12W  Date/Time: 5/6/09: 0705

To: Charlestown, Nevis  Lat/Long: 17 08N  62 38W  Date/Time: 5/6/09: 1315

Time Taken: 33nm (6hrs)  Distance (this year): 447nm (89hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1296nm  (267hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;

(**A pleasant day sail past Redonda, skylarking with brown boobies on the way.  Pinney’s Beach shows a slow recovery from recent hurricane damage.)

Going to Pieces in Avalon

Seeing the Real Montserrat: 4 Jun 09

Nearly there....

Montserrat is not on everyone’s list of must-do places in the Caribbean, however an article in the local cruising rag, Compass (Jun 09), gave us an itch that we needed to scratch.  So, the pick was set in 20 feet and black sand in Little Bay on the north end (safe zone) of the island.  Needless to say, the Cap’n was swamped by a clutch of tour guides when he reported to customs to clear in.  We did sign up for a four hour tour, realising later (as you do!) that 2 hours would have been sufficient.  There’s not a whole lot of the island left that isn’t off limits. 

A personal welcome

Citrus-seeker Joe in Avalon was our appointed guide.  We met his wife, chatted to his son, saw his new house and I'm sure we met all his friends!!  We did some touring too, to fill in any empty moments between waving and tooting all and sundry!! 

Is this really Avalon?  And is this the real fountain of youth?

Joe’s friend, Theresa showed us her fabulous garden, high up on the hills overlooking Little Bay.  She runs a guest house and enjoys cooking with the bounty of her fruitful garden. 

Theresa's bountiful garden

Theresa also has a strong interest in medicinal herbs, so we passed by a good hour combing her garden beds.  Whilst so occupied, Joe cut a coconut for us to drink and sliced off generous pieces of mammy apple, a fruit that was new to us.  It tasted a bit like mango mixed with apricot.  Of course, we stopped to refresh ourselves by tasting pure (running) spring water.  Oh, no!  Not another blasted fountain of youth?  Her Crabbiness reports that this one didn’t work either!

Vocanic Montesrrat under cloud cover

After seeing the lushness of north Montserrat, we had an “up close & personal” look at the devastation caused to the south by this still active volcano.  After “sleeping” for over 400 years, the Montserrat volcano erupted in 1995 with a roar. Further eruptions took place in 1997, 2003, 2006, 2007 and yes, as reported in our Antigua post, 2008 just as we were exploring Antigua.  The photo (above) seems peaceful enough but belies its explosive nature.  Joe had a great photo of the mountain belching huge volumes of dust and smoke with local people calmly shopping at market tables (in front of these shops) for their daily supplies.  No panic, just a calm reserve.  If we ignore it, perhaps it will it go away.....

Image by Ivan25 - Own work, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10880736

Monserrat shows her strength

The extent & depth of volcanic dust that has settled over these years is amazing.  The exclusion zone was filled with ghost houses and resorts, empty and neglected.  Joe had plenty of “before” photos that he was able to show us, so that we could see the true extent of damage from the various vantage points that he took us.  He also drove us up to the Observatory where volcanologists observe and record the daily life of this very active volcano.  It was all incredibly impressive but most of all you really have to admire the stamina of the people to live around it, and in spite of it.  Sobering reality!

An up close and personal tour with Joe

Remains of a dock in what once was a busy port

There are plans a plenty to develop Montserrat; particularly a new, safe site for a capital and then as a tourist destination.  Workers toiled and massive modern machinery pulsed as acres of concrete are shaped into a modern community.  Still, when we saw the imposing prison complex resting high up on a cliff edge (with undoubtedly the best view in Montserrat) we wondered where the funds were really coming from to support this infrastructural flurry.  If you’re into conspiracy theories, Montserrat has 7000 citizens.  How many can be really that bad??

WJ3 afloat in Little Bay

Going to Blazes

A Little Digression

Stage 1 Leewards - Bequia to Montserrat: 1-3 Jun 09

Sailing past Martinique & St Pierre

After visiting town (Port Elizabeth on Bequia) to purchase some fresh veggies (and yet more boat bits) we felt sufficiently rested (brave even) to head off on our next leg, which had been planned to end at Deshaies in Guadeloupe. The GS got out her french phrase book in anticipation of ordering decent coffee, lemon tarts and baguettes.....

Admired evening sunsets on the way

Off the Pitons (St Lucia) in the dark, a dolphin broke our otherwise uneventful trip north with a fantastic acrobatic display. He leapt at least 3 or 4 times out over waves close beside us in a short race. Can we please take him home???

And didn't stop at Dominique for obvious
reasons. Cruise Ships in town!

Thanks to excellent progress/wind gods etc (or perhaps GS’s lack of time/space skills) the Motley’s made Deshaies in the early hours of the morning. Remembering the minefield of fishing nets that lined the coastline and bay, WJ3's nose was turned further north toward Montserrat.

Yikes! Isn’t that an active volcano?

 

From: Tony Gibsons, Bequia Lat/Long: 13 00N  61 51W  Date/Time: 1/6/09: 1100

To: Little Bay, Montserrat  Lat/Long: 16 48N  62 12W  Date/Time: 3/6/09: 0830
Time Taken: 257nm (52hrs)  Distance (this year): 414nm (83hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 1263nm  (261hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**
Weather: Winds ESE 14-16kts; some squalls of Martinique 22kts; 5-8ft waves; E swell;
(**Lots of commercial traffic past Guadeloupe to keep us on our toes.  Slow going to Montserrat with winds dying off.)

Shiggidy Shack Big Steps Back

Show dem de way.....

Stage 1 Windwards: Scotland Bay, Trinidad to Bequia: 28-29 Apr 09

Our favourite snorkelling reef off Bequia

We’ve made it!  Cap’n Courageous steered us into Admiralty Bay, Bequia and over to the still unbelievably clear blue waters off Tony Gibbons Beach.  We're a little burnt but very pleased with our timing; just over 30 hours after leaving Trinidad. 

There is little to report other than catching a large tuna.  It took the two of us to haul it in…sadly, it wasn't that big.  (Anyway, we’re not telling that to BW!)  The tuna was however, just so fresh & delicious.  Otherwise, we passed the time watching out for ships & other yachts passing in the night. 

Downtown looked pretty much to same too

We are considering promoting the new auto-pilot to Rear Admiral he did so well in keeping our course without either of us having to steer.  Isn’t technology just so amazing!

 

From: Scotland Bay, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10 42N  61 39W  Date/Time: 28/5/09: 0800

To: Tony Gibsons, Bequia  Lat/Long: 13 00N  61 51W  Date/Time: 29/5/09: 1530

Time Taken: 152nm (30hrs)  Distance (this year): 157nm (31hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1006nm  (209hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds E turning NE closer to Grenada 16-18kts; 5-8ft waves; E swell;

(**Bumpy ride across the Bocas; unable to point high enough for east coast of Grenada so stayed well off shore on leeward west coast to avoid sailing over that nasty underwater volcano, Kick ‘em Jenny.)

Rescue the Perishing

Hotel Trinidad: 25 May 09

Last Supper in Trindad?

An uneasy feeling hanging over our heads is that it is almost June.  Now, how did this happen?  We decide that the Motleys live “in reverse”, which comes from existing half a world away and upside down….  You know how it is; it’s summer here and everyone else is laying up for the “season”.  Stoically, the Motleys are splashing and plan, against the trend, to actually sail north.  It’s the ANTI thing! (Antipodeans are we.)  So here we go…

Ice Water play steel drums at Sails

Working on the premise that it’s never, ever too late…we delay our splash scheduled for 20^th to 22^nd and then again to Monday, 25^th. Our plans for a little weekend shakedown cruise down-island disappear in a wisp of breeze. Final boat bits arrived (from the US) in the nick of time – and you guessed it – one was the wrong size and had to be returned!! You remember the refrain from Hotel California?  "You can check out any time you like but you can never leave"....

 

Welcome to Hotel Trinidad. 

Splashing at Last

Finally, finally though, it did all happen.  We splashed!  Cap’n Cool stayed on board whilst hunky Michael took us for our ride out to the dock.  Even so, our scheduled uplift had been put back a few hours due to staff shortages.   By this, we'd grown to respect Trini time.  Eventually WJ3 put her feet in the water.  Woohoo! 

We anchored in Chaguaramas Bay with sufficient time to clear customs without attracting overtimes fees and, most importantly, just before the duty-free shop closed.  Bruce, loaded to the gunnels with cases of beer, bottles of rum and final provisions made quite a picture at Crewes Inn dingy dock!

Take me to the River

All things in T&T move slowly except for clearing the country.  WJ3 had to be clear within the hour.…  Luckily, we set sail on the day the rule was eased to 4 hours.  Would we clear the coast in that time?  Given that we set our first leg for Bequia, we needed a good nights sleep.  

Darkness was fast approaching and the Bocas can be quite dangerous at night.  So, after sneeking into the depths of Scotland Bay, we ate, slept and prepared ourselves mentally for the 152nm 32hr voyage.  Was Boy Wonder right?  Would we cut the mustard?  Two old codgers together sailing off into the sunset….  

 

From: Chaguaramas, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10 41N  61 39W  Date/Time: 27/5/09: 1700

To: Scotland Bay, Trinidad  Lat/Long: 10 42N  61 39W  Date/Time: 27/5/09: 1800

Time Taken: 5nm (1hrs)  Distance (this year): 5nm (1hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 854nm  (179hrs)   Fastest Speed: Trini time**

Weather: Winds E turning NE 0-15kts; 2-4ft waves; E swell;

(** A very calm night with only the hooting & barking of Howler monkeys to disturb our dreams.  Speed?  Well, perhaps not on a sail boat…)