Rescue the Perishing

Hotel Trinidad: 25 May 09

Last Supper in Trindad?

An uneasy feeling hanging over our heads is that it is almost June.  Now, how did this happen?  We decide that the Motleys live “in reverse”, which comes from existing half a world away and upside down….  You know how it is; it’s summer here and everyone else is laying up for the “season”.  Stoically, the Motleys are splashing and plan, against the trend, to actually sail north.  It’s the ANTI thing! (Antipodeans are we.)  So here we go…

Ice Water play steel drums at Sails

Working on the premise that it’s never, ever too late…we delay our splash scheduled for 20^th to 22^nd and then again to Monday, 25^th. Our plans for a little weekend shakedown cruise down-island disappear in a wisp of breeze. Final boat bits arrived (from the US) in the nick of time – and you guessed it – one was the wrong size and had to be returned!! You remember the refrain from Hotel California?  "You can check out any time you like but you can never leave"....

 

Welcome to Hotel Trinidad. 

Splashing at Last

Finally, finally though, it did all happen.  We splashed!  Cap’n Cool stayed on board whilst hunky Michael took us for our ride out to the dock.  Even so, our scheduled uplift had been put back a few hours due to staff shortages.   By this, we'd grown to respect Trini time.  Eventually WJ3 put her feet in the water.  Woohoo! 

We anchored in Chaguaramas Bay with sufficient time to clear customs without attracting overtimes fees and, most importantly, just before the duty-free shop closed.  Bruce, loaded to the gunnels with cases of beer, bottles of rum and final provisions made quite a picture at Crewes Inn dingy dock!

Take me to the River

All things in T&T move slowly except for clearing the country.  WJ3 had to be clear within the hour.…  Luckily, we set sail on the day the rule was eased to 4 hours.  Would we clear the coast in that time?  Given that we set our first leg for Bequia, we needed a good nights sleep.  

Darkness was fast approaching and the Bocas can be quite dangerous at night.  So, after sneeking into the depths of Scotland Bay, we ate, slept and prepared ourselves mentally for the 152nm 32hr voyage.  Was Boy Wonder right?  Would we cut the mustard?  Two old codgers together sailing off into the sunset….  

 

From: Chaguaramas, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10 41N  61 39W  Date/Time: 27/5/09: 1700

To: Scotland Bay, Trinidad  Lat/Long: 10 42N  61 39W  Date/Time: 27/5/09: 1800

Time Taken: 5nm (1hrs)  Distance (this year): 5nm (1hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 854nm  (179hrs)   Fastest Speed: Trini time**

Weather: Winds E turning NE 0-15kts; 2-4ft waves; E swell;

(** A very calm night with only the hooting & barking of Howler monkeys to disturb our dreams.  Speed?  Well, perhaps not on a sail boat…)

Mixin' it up

Monkey Business: 14 May 08

Waterloo Mandir

And so the journey continues, which literally means there are too many photos for one post…

After the heady excitement of the Pitch Lake, we took an unofficial stop at a “puja shop” to buy a prayer flag for Penawar’s garden (and taste even more snacks).  Back on the bus, Jesse drove us north along an interesting coastal corridor.  This took us past busy oil refineries (a source of this country’s wealth) and huge industrial depots, through open fields that were recently once home to large sugar cane plantations and into pretty fishing villages.  Trinidad isn’t a huge island; it would only take a few hours to drive from one side to the other.

Shiva guards the Mandir entrance

At the village of Waterloo, we pulled into the Siew Dass Sadhu Temple, a white onion domed structure at the end of a pier built out into the shallow Gulf of Paria.  This temple took Siew Dass, an indentured Indian labourer some 25 years to build by hand. It's certainly a monument to resilience in the face of adversity.  His dream project finally came to fruition many years later when in 1995 it became part of a Government project to celebrate the 150^th year of Indian arrival in Trinidad.  Now it is a meditative temple, home to expressive statues of Hindu gods and the site of an open-air crematorium.  Colourful prayer flags flap in trade winds – petitions for prosperity and good fortune, while surrounding mudflats are a peaceful home to a large array of Trinidad’s birdlife.

Hanuman Murti

A little further on, we saw monkeys.  Well one big one actually!  Eighty-five feet in all, the Hanuman Murti stands in colourful splendour, looking over a bright pink and very intricate Hindu Temple.  I felt as if I was suddenly whisked back to Delhi!  Did I have my cute little ruby slippers on that day?  No, but isn’t it interesting to see how life is cut, styled and moulded by cultural differences.  The Caribbean zest for colour just cannot be contained.  Now that’s deep for a post and for 5am on a Tuesday morning!

How is this for a tropical flower?

No elephants 'ere

Pitch & Chutney: 14 May 09

Pitch Lake Beauty

Never let it be said that you starve when you do a tour with Jesse James!  This time we managed to snack our way down south to Pitch Lake.  We munched on saheena, phulourie, doubles and aloo pies, tasted unusual local fruits (pomerac) and scoffed tooth-achingly sweet barfi.  All this before our substantial roti “wrap” for lunch.  I had the chicken – with bones!, laced with channa & a potato curry filling, a little chutney and NO pepper sauce, thanks!! 

Gooey "Mother of the Lake" pitch

Despite the Pitch Lake having a reputation as a tourist non-event, it was actually quite interesting.  Rediscovered by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1595 when he needed to caulk his ships, the lake is still worked today.  Refined pitch is in fact asphalt, and its quality is said to be the best in the world, if you’re into that kind of thing.  We’re told the road in front of Buckingham Palace is paved with it, but you can’t help but wonder how they managed to load up all that black messy goo to transport it back in sailing ships.  At least they wouldn’t leak….

Pitch Lake Reflection

Our guide patiently explained the lake’s complex geology, as we poked and prodded our way around its surface.  Some parts are very soft (mother of the lake), some parts burp methane gas, others collect pools of therapeutic sulphuric water and generally it exudes mild smells of rotten eggs.  Otherwise, its pleats and folds resemble the backside of a very large elephant.  Don’t stand too long in one spot either or you’ll start to sink into its spongy mass.  Not to worry if you do, the lake manages to turn itself over every few months, so you’d be coughed up & spat out….eventually.

"Fountain of Youth" sulphur water

The photo above shows the ghastly green and warm (but very good for you) waters of the lake.  The masses come to bathe in it.  Remedy for all ailments so we were told.  Even said to be the fountain of youth.

So our GS is waiting for these therapeutic properties of the lake’s fountain of youth to kick in.  And waiting. Still waiting.

Not working yet?  Oh well...

Glamour Puss

Barkin’ Mad: 6 May 09

Model Manners

This will not be a long post.  Let the photos speak for themselves.  And so, on with our fairytale:

Once upon a time at a Roti Hut “potluck” deep in Chaguaramas backwaters, a stranger joined our group for a chat.  Worse luck!  He was an Aussie (the accent was a dead give-away!).  “I’m looking for a handsome man” he said, eyes twinkling and gold tooth sparkling.  “Yep, righto” we all thought!

Barker's Bow Ties

Near enough to the next day, the Cap’n was delivered a calling card from The Admiral, who sat in splendour aboard his barge, Bow Tie Lady.  “Report to said film studio” he ordered “to meet glamorous makeup lady, professional photographer, and efficient management consultant”.  "But first, off to see hair stylist to the stars." And so we did; Mrs Cap’n riding shotgun (just to be safe & sure)! 

Strike a pose.  And another!  Work that floor….you got it goin’ boy! 

Afterwards, the Cap’n swept on his darkers (Trini for sunnies) a la CSI Miami style & the Crew squealed (we’d had a few wines by then!).  To maintain his incognito status (thus avoiding fan mobbings, silly!), home we travelled in a local, but nicely appointed mini-bus appropriately called “Obama”.

Dressed to Kill

Soon to be advertisement fodder on a website for bow ties, himself now has 5 mins of credit up on his 15 minutes of fame.  The Admiral, task achieved, then sailed off into the sunset (actually for St Lucia). 

Strange but (nearly) true!

PS.  Himself's Press Agent (now that he's a professional, you know) has asked the Ed to include Peter Barker Bow Ties web site in order for you to see more of his modelling portfolio.  Of course, ahem!   Links will be established when said web site is ready to go to air. Bet you can't wait......

(Ed Note, 2010.  A note to report that sadly himself & said bowties are no longer on air.  Peter is still sailing (somewhere) but the new business apparently not!)

Giving 'em the twitters

A Bird in the Hand: 5 May 09

Discovery Trail

Delayed yet again by broken or missing replacement parts, Cap’n & Crew headed out for a little local bird watching….twitchers or just plain twits?  After an early start, and snacked up on “doubles” and “saheenas”, our group arrived at the Asa Wright Nature Centre, hidden up high in the hills behind Port of Spain.  A former coffee and cocoa plantation, the centre is now an award winning eco-reserve; an old planters house (1907) set in a lush tropical rainforest reserve.  We took a tour, led by knowledgeable naturalist Molly, to see tiny, shy, flittery birds.  Only one, which resembled a tawny frogmouth, seemed to match our beefy birdlife.  He watched with disdain as we desperately tried to take photos, yawning offhandedly as we moved on down Discovery Trail.

Feeding Birdies

After lunch in the main house buildings, the Cap’n & Crew were the only takers to brave icy mountain waters of nearby Clearwater Pool for a refreshing dip – our very first swim of the season!  Too lazy to walk back up the hill to the change shed, we stripped off our wet bathers at water's edge.  It was only then that Cap’n Observant noticed a security camera!!  Bird watching of a different variety and I'm sure highly amusing for security staff.  Damn……

Jhandi Flying

Leaving the steep hills of the Northern Range, our drive took us onto the flat lands of the Caroni Plains, home to many descendents of indentured Indian workers who replaced freed slaves in 1840’s.  Hindus only make up about 24% of the population (more are of East Indian descent) as many had to convert to Catholicism during Spain’s long period of rule.  It was a requirement then to be Catholic to marry or own land.  Reminiscent of prayer flags in Nepal, many Hindu homes fly colourful flags (jhandi) on bamboo stakes to appease gods and bring blessings.

Caroni Swamp

Once at 9^th Cut, we boarded our open pirogue for a little bird watching in the Caroni Swamp, an intriguing & somewhat brackish 40 sq kilometres of mangroves, marshes and tidal lagoons.  Trinidad’s national bird, the scarlet ibis, calls this home.  Our boatman, resplendent in gold “herb leaf” (da smokin’ kine, mon) ear studs, took us through a maze of channels to see blue heron, white egret and one lonely, green tree python.  Just before dusk, we moved as closely and quietly as possible, to a designated roosting island.  Whilst our guide book mentions viewing flocks of 12000 scarlet ibis, we still felt fortunate to see hundreds of these almost luminous, bright red birds swirling through the soft evening light.  Unfortunately, unless kitted up with the latest high-tech birding cameras, catching them on film is nearly impossible.

Buying Doubles

We ended a successful day out slurping on home-made rum & raisin ice-cream from Point Cumana.  This somewhat run-down area is home of “rum & coke”.  Now a little less popular than in the 1940’s, Fernandes Rum Bar was frequented by visiting US soldiers during their stay at a nearby military base in Chaguaramas.  Now sing with me to Lord Invader’s  (he's not a Star Wars character!) calypso tune… "

Drinking rum and coca-cola,

goin' down to Point Cumana. 

Both mother and daughter,

working for the Yankee dollar…..” 

Hare's to Exercise

POSH Times: 2 May 09

Post-POSH HASH Gathering

We are starting to feel like locals.  Missing the morning net (VHF 68) can cause tantrums; bargains are missed and social events left unattended.  So, in the interests of furthering our Trini lifestyle, we answered a call to the Port of Spain Hash (POSH).  Fellow cruisers from S Y Paradise gave us a lift to the run site - they have a car!  Manuela & I instantly had a lot in common – she had broken her ankle at a recent hash run and was in plaster up to her knee. 

Cashew Nut Fruit

The Cap’n ran with Sid & the pack – a very fit looking lot I must say, and the GS ambled about with the walkers until the Hares came to rescue them, lost deep in gravel pits.  Their paper trail led us through groves of cashew nuts, past papaya plantations, around coffee and cocoa trees and into a bit of wild sugar cane for good measure.  Fortunately we saw little wildlife, only a few grazing milkers startled by our appearance in their paddock when we took a shortcut. 

Pack in a Pit

Later at the circle, the Grand Mistress saluted us (and many others) as virgins although we were newcomers really, and made the necessary “awards” to the Hares and major offenders.  Cap’n wore his Phuket shirt (which the locals think is hilariously rude!) and GS her Kathmandu one (Africa somewhere perhaps?).  

The local and very small village of Ravine Sable (said raa vin sar blur) tolerated the influx of noisy hashers, music and dancing in the streets.  A nearby roti hut had all the village ladies out rolling dough I'm sure and made a fortune by supplying substantial chicken or veggie “wraps” laced with mango chutney and ubiquitous pepper sauce.

Jungle Trail

With any luck we will be around for the next run.  It’s a great way to see Trinidad countryside first hand, meet people who don’t sail, sink a few local brews (Carib, Stag and black rums) and find out how unfit you really are!!!  ON ON….

Keeping Good Company

Meeting Myrtle & Friends: 28 Apr 09

Laying Eggs & A Ranger

Surprisingly, Cap’n Crewel (yes, GS is missing her sewing!) has allowed some educational entertainments.  Probably giving time for the paint to dry…  In a social whirlwind, we’ve taken the bus to Long Circular Mall and its big supermarket with a ready stock of real (fresh) vegies, attended a “pot luck” dinner and walked 5 hundred miles in the heat to have real coffee in an air-conditioned café.  “Good exercise”, said the Cap’n.  At least we haven’t met the local police force yet.

She feels like suede

We have met a few arrzzies though.  Most have been and gone except for one who has been living here since 2002.  In a boat.  On the hard.  Up that ladder!  I’m stir crazy after 4 weeks.  I want to build a compost heap (under WJ3), put in a clothes hoist, install recycle bins and suggest solar hot water showers to the Yard Supervisor.  I’m also getting to know the local cat population….love me, love my spam.  Anything for a meow and muff!

Measuring & Tagging

Insisting on widening our social circle beyond cats, the Cap’n signed off on a Turtle Tour.  Yes, it’s nesting time and yes, it’s even better than sitting in front of high definition plasma.  Richard Attenborough, eat your heart out!  Organised by local tour guide, Jessie James, of Members Only Taxis, we travelled from Chaguaramas up hill and down dale to avoid sticky peak hour traffic, to Matura Beach, stopping briefly for a Trini-Chinese dinner on the way.  It doesn’t matter what you eat really, everything seems to be deep fried, served in huge platefuls and doused in fiery pepper sauce.  Mmmmmm!

Ms Turtle, a large leatherback matron, made an appearance out of the crashing waves and up to a nice sandy spot.  We stumbled around in the dark with our Guide and tried not to put her off.  Once settled, she expertly dug a nest with her big back flippers then filled it with golf-ball sized eggs. 

Eggs in a Nest

When she lays eggs, she goes into a “trance” (so did GS many years ago, but also said some very rude words at the time!) so that we are able to put on our torches and take photos.  We had to be careful however, not to scare other mamas heading up onto the beach.  Guides have counted 200 to 250 per night over the 4km of beach this season so far – an excellent result for an unfunded program run by dedicated volunteer guides. 

Anyone wanting to adopt a turtle can find details through Nature Seekers.  It’s quite an experience.

Dat Good Ting Too

Losa wurk: 27 Apr 09

Work continues. WJ3’s conversion to QE2 is almost complete. The Cap’n is staring longingly out to sea each day; the Galley Slave is busy stocking up on travel medications…. 

Oh, look how the grass is growing under our boat!

For those interested, we’ve had some heavy duty works undertaken whilst on the hard here at Power Boats. In no particular order (you’ve heard of Trini time?? Same ting, mon!), himself has had davits installed to raise Bruce off the water & out of harms way more easily at night. We were using the halyard, but it only needed a sneaky breeze to have poor Bruce fluttering about the mast like a pennant. Then there’s the new autopilot. I wish he was as attractive as James Bond (any one of them really), but alas, it’s a growing stash of dials and gadgets. Expensive dials and gadgets! I’m hoping for a new wifi antenna too. And then folks, we can set ourselves up as command post central for the Eastern Caribbean’s swine fever control unit.

A little self-help goes a long way.  Mechanic at Work

Seriously though, we’ve also had our batteries replaced and new sun curtains for the bimini & a smaller awning for the forward deck sewn up – beats closing hatches when it rains! WJ3’s had her bottom polished like glass and even Bruce was given a good scrub. Missing aircon covers have been replaced, the stove has been serviced and last but not least, a new inner forestay adds more toe-breakers on deck.   A new matching stay sail is in the making as I speak.

Yes, new.    I’m not sure what’s come over our Cap’n.   Mind you, he monitors the boaters net (VHF channel 68) like a garage-sale groupie each morning at 8am for freebies and trades. Our store room is suffering slow junktivitus creep.   Make haste if you want to visit, whilst there’s still room.

Tip Sea in Trini Dad

Dis Pain: 19 Apr 09

View of a hurricane from above

Not wishing to invoke foul weather conditions, I found this little local rhyme in one of our guide books (Les Weatheritt – and yes, that’s his real name!).   The % given is the long range hurricane frequency.  Officially, the season starts 1^st June and ends 30^th November each year.

 

June (5%) too soon;

July (9%) stand by;

August (29%) come she must;

September (36%) remember

October (19%) all over

This rhyme leaves out late season hurricanes; November (3%) and occasionally December. That said, these were the months we sailed down island last year. The biggest threat (a close call) came from Hurricane Omar, which came through our sailing area just after we had left Trinidad in October. On our trip down island, we usually had great weather, although generally the south-easterlies had kicked in, giving us “nose” conditions for a lot of our passages south. We have our fingers crossed for the same conditions this year, to have the wind behind us and trust we time our cruise up the ICW to be well north (35N is the limit) before needing to stand by.

As time ticks away in the boatyard here in Trinidad, so too is the time we have to make the Bahamas. We are not too concerned yet however, as May is given as the best time for making north as seasonal winds start to come around to the east/south east giving us a comfortable passage.

I just wonder who I am trying to convince...

Yes, it's truth on my T-shirt

Cap'n Slavedriver insists...

Welcome Dear Travellers: 19 Apr 09

We thought we should put up some Visitors Notes for those who wish to share our adventures…

Life on board is relatively simple. We don’t dress for dinner (well, not every night!) so comfortable & lightweight cotton tropical wear is the key. Shorts & T’s/tank tops and bathers & a sarong are about all you’ll need. Bring runners for an occasional walk to town and more modest clothing (long shorts & a T is fine). You could include something dressier for restaurant visits. The Cap’n swears by trekking pants – the ones with zippered shorts – for mozzie protection. Dresses aren’t really all that suitable when travelling about in a dingy and neither are white clothes. A warm jacket (fleece) and/or a spray jacket make sense if it rains or we have foul weather underway. Dress in layers and think about laundry! Washing takes the form of an occasional (and more often than not expensive) laundromat. If not, then our multipurpose bucket is useful! Iron – what iron? We have sheets but you may like to bring a couple of towels for the beach and shower. (Ed. Note 2014: Thanks to the KIP's we now have lots of towels.)

As to shoes, the Cap’n is serious! You will need a pair of white soled deck shoes – Volleys are fine or Bias sell Burke deck sandals with covered toes that are really comfy & non-slip for about $70. Otherwise, crocs/thongs are great knockabouts (but lack traction in the wet). Don’t forget to bring decent walking shoes…we have no car!

BW, the "other" car & a folding bicycle beats swimming/walking 

All of this should be packed into a duffel bag or something that folds down flat. We don’t have room on board to store suitcases of any size. Pack lightly – we will rarely be away from civilisation for any length of time. Also, locker space is sparse. The guest quarters run to a double bed with ensuite and a small hanging locker + 3 clothes lockers. Note that the guest bed and loo doubles as the only useable berth whilst underway, so you may have to vacate during shifts (o'nite passages). I prefer to sleep in one of the chairs, dubbed the “chuck chair”. No explanations necessary.

You should bring a hat (a broad brimmed hat; the sun is fierce), sunnies (polaroids), non-greasy sunscreen (no oils), insect repellent and chapsticks etc aside from any regular medications & sea-sickness pills…the GS refuses to share her stash with anyone! A small soft bag of toiletries is useful. Bring a pack of sandwich sized zip-lock bags to store things in to stop them rolling about or getting wet.

You might also like to bring your ipod, binoculars (for bird watching, ho ho!), dvd’s, camera/video, and maybe some reading material. Internet cafes are best if you want to check emails but by all means bring a laptop/tablet if you want. Some marinas do have wi-fi. Don’t forget to include an adaptor for US or European plugs (Officeworks has them); and remember US works on 110v so you may need a transformer too.  Europe is 22-240v.

Cruising Timetable. Given our reliance on weather & sailing times, we must ask you to meet us. We will let you know where we are and then you will need to fly in, bus, taxi or train to a convenient location. You may well have to wait for us, so be prepared to find some accommodation if necessary.  Weather and visa requirements mean we cannot wait for you…. We also think that a 2 week stay is about right. This way, confined spaces and long days sailing (or motoring) do not become tedious.  Having said that, there is usually some flexibility in our schedule to linger in beautiful cays or explore the history of the countries we visit. If you would like to stay in-country longer, we rather like Intrepid for great land-based tours that add an extra dimension to what is often only a coastal exploration with WJ3.  (Ed: 2014. They offer a very tempting trip from Croatia to Istanbul.) 

There is always something interesting to see as we float along

Personal Space. It’s limited! Aside from flexing your sense of humour, we ask that you confine your “stuff” to your cabin, keeping shared areas uncluttered and clean. Luckily, we don’t have to share bathrooms....well, only if underway - see loo comment above. Which brings us to the next topic…

Chores. We would expect that you will be able to share in shopping, cooking, cleaning (inside & out) and boat work, including taking a turn at the helm and perhaps a night-watch if necessary.

Safe Boating. Of course, the Cap’n will read the riot act. He expects safe boating rules are always followed. He’s always willing to talk about boats/boating (groan). At sea, especially on night watch you will need to wear a harness and wet-weather gear. We have some to share but it is better to at least have your own robust weatherproof jacket.

Costs. Finally, whilst the Motleys would love to “keep” you on board, we trust you will be willing to share expenses. Food, drink, fuel, laundry and dockage are the usuals. We cook on board to keep costs down, usually eating out once a week, especially in the Caribbean as it’s very expensive. Exploring local markets however is great fun and fresh food is always preferable to tinned. It’s pleasant to anchor out, a quieter option than a marina, but it isn’t always possible. We also enjoy doing the touristy thing; sometimes hiring cars, taking local buses or doing organised tours. You can do your own freewheeling; we don’t have to be together all the time! (Ed. Note: Thanks to an organised BCK, we've decided on a "kitty" system to share all costs during the trip. It worked so well, again with the Kip's, we now warn you to expect it.)

Sometimes the locals get a bit cranky...

The Cap’n & Crew look forward to having some slave labour. Punishment for mutiny is a keel hauling (irrie, me hearties!) and reward for a good day’s work is a toddy of rum for “sundowners” in the cockpit at 6pm. Usually overlooking a watery view unsurpassed in any travel mag.