Play that Funky Music Loud

Culebra: 15 Jun 09

Rocky small cays off Culebra - good for diving

The decision was made.  Tomorrow was check-out day.  We repositioned ourselves just off Cayo Pirata.  This small cay was “constructed” to give shelter to pirate ships in days of old.  Sir Henry Morgan (and many others) is said to have frequented the waters and multitude of tiny islands off Culebra.  These days, the options are diving and beaches; beaches and diving.  Even the Cap’n was overcome at the multitude of interesting dive sites and secluded cays – oh, the possibilities of finding a cray or grouper….  Sadly, not for us this time!

Life all at sea

Sliding into our anchorage, we found ourselves right beside some friends we’d met last year in Nanny Cay.  Their boat had suffered damage at the hands of a modern day swashbuckler, a charterer.  (Yo ho ho & a bottle or two of rum!)  Needless to say, there was lengthy discussion over who was to pay and for what.  Of course, our charterer had to rush home.  Can you imagine?….  We were glad it wasn’t us, although the incident strongly re-enforced for us the tenuous difference between insured and those at greater risk, the “self-insured” community. 

Bruce is all tucked up in bed and rearin' to go!

Tony & Suzanne on Gabra had set sail from Canada and, entranced by the delights of a very laidback Culebra, had stayed.  It was nice to catch up and swap stories of our travels and adventures since our last meeting.  We liked their home away from home – it was like stepping back to the 70’s.  But we had places to go and people to see.  So after provisioning, taking lunch at the Dinghy Dock, watching tarpon (big lads, they were) at play in the shallows, and signing out the airport, we drew breath and hit the magenta line (lines on the charts that connect our waypoints).

Hasta la vista, baybee…..

So Much Time - Not a Lot to Do

Cruzan Cool Down: 14 Jun 09

A tropical island cool down with friends

This is now our critical “Things-to-do List”.  After sitting in a number of Caribbean ports we’ve hit upon a list of essentials for both WJ3 and crew. (Clearly we’ve got no telly!).  Visitors take note – you will be expected to comply.

 

WJ3

• Rename to something exceedingly ostentatious
• Drip decks with gorgeous gals & huge hunks
• Employ staff (minimum 2 to 1 ratio)
• Install bigger, better, louder sound system

Bruce

• Insert centre console with steering wheel
• Cap’n to STAND UP when driving
• Drive fast to ensure huge wake in anchorage

Cap’n

• Always drive & shout orders at the same time (can’t be heard above engine that way!) 
• Must have a shiny, gold earring (chains are so passe, darling)
• And a hairy chest...
• Wear short shorts

Crew

• Recline on the bow (Bruce or WJ3) and chat endlessly & loudly (nasally twang is best)
• Must have a tattoo (yes, the older the bod the better!)
• Dress skimpily and wear only pristine white, of course, darling
• Leave hair to matt into dreadlocks or is that just too much hairspray….

Finally, it seems that one takes drink in hand and spends all day sitting in the warm, reef protected waters chatting to friends beside one’s boat.  Not sitting politely on the back of your (mostly) beefy hot water boat, but yes, beside it in neck or knee deep water.  Ahhhhh, a real tropical island beach cool-down!  At last.....

Other suggestions can be forwarded to WJ3 via email.  Be nice now!!

Barracuda Boooooor ring....

Stage 2 Spanish Virgin Islands - St Croix to Culebra: 13 Jun 09

Dakity Harbor Culebra

There is little to tell of our crossing.  Fingers were crossed for a fresh mahi mahi, perhaps a tuna or something edible at least.  We caught yet another barracuda – a total of 5 now!  Full of ciguatera.  And nasty teeth.  Sent him packing but not before a fun tussle for the GS. 

Bar Pontoon

Our Cap’n Cautious negotiated yet another difficult harbour – thank goodness for GPS and modern computerised chart systems!  He safely dropped our hook in turquoise, reef-fringed waters of Dakity Harbor.  For the first time, moorings a plenty were provided free of charge for the fun loving Puerto Ricans.  Now there’s a sensible decision.  Being Saturday, we were lucky to snag one.  Later we sipped our rum punches listening to upbeat Latino music coming from a floating bar in nearby shallows – a reminder of our BBQ pontoons.  Welcome to the very definitely Spanish, and very cool, Virgin Islands.

From: Christiansted, St Croix Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 13/6/09: 0645

To: Dakity Harbour, Culebra  Lat/Long: 18 17N  65 16W  Date/Time: 13/6/09: 1600
Time Taken: 45nm (10hrs)  Distance (this year): 637nm (129.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 1486nm  (307.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted
Weather: Winds E 10-16kts; Seas 5-6ft.

Relics of the Slave Era

Christiansted – the Danish Connection: 12 Jun 09

The Gold Fort

Christiansted’s picturesque historic buildings lured us with a short walking tour.  These pastel painted Danish Government buildings are now on the National Register of Historic Places.  We took Bruce into a town dinghy dock and began a tour from the popular district of Kings Wharf.  We eyed a few watering holes on the boardwalk as possibilities for our later “sundowners”. 

Kings Wharf had been used for commercial trading for more than 250 years.  St Croix was known as the “Garden of the Antilles” and as such hosted many large sugar plantations and molasses factories.  It was also a busy centre for slave trading. 

Fort Defences

We began our tour at Fort Christiansvaern (Christian’s Defences) a well cared for yellow painted fort – known locally as "the golden fort".  Built in 1749 on a site of an old French Fort, this small 4 point citadel was used until 1878, playing out a role that included prison, administration, security and court facilities for a small but busy colony.  In conjunction with gun emplacements located in Protestant Cay and Fort Louise Augusta, this wealthy and industrious settlement was provided with quite formidable protection.  The guns however, were never fired in armed conflict; the fort was used to protect the small colony from pirate attacks, hurricanes and slave revolts. 

Old Customs House

The Danish edge for design was clearly evident, even then and attention paid to detail given trying circumstances.  Interestingly, this compact fort was constructed from Danish bricks, formerly ships ballast.  The wings were well laid out and space, although compact, was well used.  At one time, the cells housed the wife of one of the staffers – her ability to shop outweighed his ability to pay – so he embezzled some funds…  Of course, she was packed off to a jail cell for two years in the hope she would come to her senses! 

Floor tiles St Croix (with toes) - the start of an obsession for tiles?

The rooms used by the Commandant and his family were large, and inviting - pastel colours, lots of perfect views from large windows and high ceilings.  I’m sure other fort occupants (especially the incarcerated) grumbled but again the well thought out, open plan and use of a wide verandah and shutters to cool the rooms made perfect sense in a Caribbean climate.  Lastly, I must pass comment on the well sited latrines.  Don’t the Danish just have an eye for detail! 

Old Sugar Mill

Having spent some time enjoying the Fort, we worked our way through a grid of narrow streets looking at the Customs House, the Old Danish Scale House, the Company Warehouse where slaves were once auctioned and finally Government House.  Our Cap’n distracted a historically minded GS only once – the delights of a second hand bookstore were just too tempting. 

After a quick turn around an old sugar mill right on the dock area, we chose a pub that overlooked Protestant Cay.  This small coral island is now a small resort and Christiansted’s only harbour beach.  Locals take a 5 minute ride to find beach, bar & babes on weekends.  Otherwise, the inner harbour area is crammed with yachties (live-aboards) who add to the milieu of the district.

Buckin' Marvellous

Buck Island at Last!: 12 Jun 09

Buck Island Marine Wildlife Park. Breathe in...hold that pose!

Finally, we managed to dodge reefs and shallows to anchor in the lee of Buck Island.  A short 4½ nm from Christiansted, this small island and surrounding reef system make up an 880 acre marine sanctuary.  We landed in pristine waters off a small beach.  The waters were turquoise and the sand - pure white!  This, we thought, was what we had been hearing about but not seeing.  Finally, a little Caribbean magic!  Just gorgeous!

As an aside, the beach scenes in “The Shawshank Redemption” were filmed in St Croix.  Can we live here?  Only nasty PWC (personal water craft -those buzzy water scooters) broke our quiet reverie – now, where’s that trip wire?

Lucky find on Buck Island

The marine park is a designated National Monument.  It’s easy diving and wonderful snorkelling – hello there Mr Barracuda and Mr Grouper…  Safe in their little playground, they potted about rather too self-assuredly.  Later, we managed to find a gap in the reef (the underwater signage helped – well this is the US!) and came face to flippers with a young turtle going about his daily schedule – finding food.  I could feel the need for an underwater camera coming on!!

As you can see, our Cap'n Charming won the heart of a delightful local.  She must have recognised him from his photo shoot?  Anyway, he couldn't bring her home, even for one of the boys, because nothing can be removed from marine parks.  WJ3 and GS seconded that! 

From: Christiansted, St Croix Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 12/6/09: 0700

To: Buck Island, St Croix  Lat/Long: 17 47N  64 37W  Date/Time: 12/6/09: 0800

Time Taken: 9nm (2hrs) return  Distance (this year): 591nm (129.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1441nm  (297.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds SE 16-18kts; 5ft seas; ESE swell;

(**Conditions made snorkelling a bit of an adventure on E side of island)

 

Good Deed Day

St Croix: 10-12 Jun 09

Oooops!

Our plans for an early start to Buck Island were delayed a little.  “Darling”, said GS as she poured the morning coffee. “Does that yacht look slightly askew to you?”  “I say, darling, yes it does,” replied Cap’n, the scent of drama budding in the early morning air.

You can see the extent of the reef from this picture.
We were anchored over to the right (not in piture).  From Wiki

Middle reef lay claim to its notoriety and had collected yet another victim during the night.  The action unfolded right before our eyes!  Cap’n Speedo could hardly spare time to fix his trusty cape before he and Bruce leapt to the rescue.  It seemed that no-one else was interested….  The victims were an older chap and his trusty Labrador, both of whom the Cap’n transported to the safety of a nearby marina.  Poor miss labby had to be coaxed into the dingy; she’d had a rough night of it.  Safely dispatched, we watched over coffee as the marina lads tried in vain to pull the yacht off the reef with their beefy runabout.  It was well & truly aground, although in reasonable condition, all things considered.  It was still there when we left for Culebra, the next day.

Cap'n & Bruce to the rescue

Later, we watched a couple of blokes in a dinghy, just a few metres from us, as they tried to row against a fresh breeze and current.  Their engine had stalled and an obliging Cap’n offered a tow.  No thanks, they were going to make it!  As they slowly drifted further and further out into the middle of the harbour…  Finally, a shout gained himself’s attention and off he raced; cape hardly dry since last good deed.

Our third good deed was in fact to ourselves.  Yes, we forgot the dinghy engine key in our eagerness to cast off for a snorkelling adventure.  Yes, that same fresh breeze and strong current sure made for some energetic paddling before we made it (slowly) back to WJ3.  Of course, the GS’s helpful (Ed. aka skipper: not helpful ) suggestions were not well received. He described it more as “whining/moaning”!!  Anyway, there’s noticeably less flab on our arms these days…

Free Beer Tomorrow

Stage 2  US Virgin Islands - St Kitts to St Croix: 8-9 Jun 09

Oh Look!  We match!

Despite earlier misgivings, St Croix turned out to be rather nice.  It has all the mod cons, the customs staff were helpful and the harbour not too congested.  On top of all that WJ3 had a bit of a play with a friendly pod of dolphins on the way in.  How nice!

Due to a little (more) engine trouble, the Motleys arrived in style – under sail – to drop anchor.  On-lookers must have thought we were either sailing purists or smart SOB’s.  Christiansted has a reputation as a difficult harbour and reef to negotiate at the best of times – only under good light and never at night, says the Pilot Guide.  Well, go the Aussies!  Yesssssss!

All the mod cons in the Virgins

We took advantage of nearby St Croix Marina to re-water, re-fuel and then hit the boat shop for a few essentials.  The Cap’n must have had shopping withdrawals…..  The GS feigned a continuing fever to avoid doing the grocery shopping and clothes washing – both of which the Cap’n managed to accomplish after a quick reconnoiter of Gallows Bay. 

We planned another day to take advantage of St Croix’s many dive sites and do a little historical walking tour of the lovely old town of Christiansted.  Now, what do they say about plans….yep, written in quick sand…..

From: Basseterre, St Kitts Lat/Long: 17 17N  62 43W  Date/Time: 8/6/09: 1100

To: Christiansted, St Croix  Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 9/6/09: 1315

Time Taken: 125nm (26hrs)  Distance (this year): 583nm (127.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1432nm  (295.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;

(**A little rolly & had engine trouble)

Chinese Laundry

Sugar Train round St Kitts: 7 Jun 09

Had we known that we were sailing into a washing machine, perhaps we would have stayed “surfing the net” at Pinney’s and had another superb meal (of mahi-mahi) at Double Deuce – the second best meal we’d had in the Caribbean.  Silly Motleys.

Town Centre St Kitts

None of the crew slept well that night.  Not even after downing several “Killer Bee” replicas (rum punch).  WE couldn’t wait to get off poor WJ3 who was jiggidy-ing round like a buckin’ bronco in Basseterre's exposed harbour.  St Kitts offered a round island trip on the only running (restored) sugar cane train in the Caribbean chain.  For many islands, sugar is a thing of the past but useful to shape yet another historical attraction for the thousands that come regularly on cruise liners.  We also wanted to see the highly recommended Brimstone Fortress, which is said to be second only to Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua. 

So, while a very green first mate clutched her stomach (after a tough night on the laundry), off went Cap’n Hale & Hearty in search of information and breakfast.  So, here’s how our visit to St Kits (as obvious tourists) went…. 

Sting 1:  “We don’t do breakfast here in St Kitts”, said the Marina Security Guard.  Well it was 7 (in the morning!). 

Sting 2:  The sugar train only runs on Saturdays - and only when the cruise ships come in.  Forget that – smelt just a little too Disney anyway!  

Sting 3:  “Brimstone Fort, sure!” said the taxi driver.  “Minimum 4 passengers; but I’ll take you both for $200 (that’s US$)”.  Mmmmm!  No thanks – let’s get out of here. 

We eventually did find breakfast at Ballahoo.  GS regained some of her colour over a strong coffee and pancakes.  “Welcome to St Kitts!” said the chatty, friendly man at the table next to us.  You’ll love it here so much, you won’t want to leave.” 

Sting 4:  He turned out to be a real estate salesman!  We were back on board, packed & gone by 11am….

Pack your bags. We are not staying here!

From: Charlestown, Nevis Lat/Long: 17 08N  62 38W  Date/Time: 7/6/09: 1400

To: Basseterre, St Kitts  Lat/Long: 17 17N  62 43W  Date/Time: 7/6/09: 1630
Time Taken: 11nm (2.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 458nm (91.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 1307nm  (269.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**
Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;
(**A doddle really.  Getting our groove back after 2 long legs)

Nevis. Island Fan-ta-sea

Double Deuce on Pinney’s: 5 Jun 09

Island Kingdom of Redonda

Are there times when you think our Cap’n has had just a bit too much sun?  Well, he says he saw a giant stingray leap out of the water on our way into Charlestown Harbour.  Of course he did…but it could also have been from listening to all those curious tales as we sailed past the Kingdom of Redonda....

Let’s get this straight!  Redonda is a rock.  One mile long and 1000 feet high.  In the middle of nowhere.  It did at one time have a post office – that’s about all other than a few hardy phosphate miners.  (Well now, isn’t that just the Brits for you.)  Its history started with an Irishman – one who had 8 daughters and one son.  He claimed Redonda in 1880 in the name of his son (so who needs daughters??), the first king.  His son is perhaps better known as English writer of Gothic romance, MP Shiel, whose writing has been described as dark and trippy...

Subsequently, the island passed through successive literary ownership; more to satisfy gambling debts it seems, rather than any serious reasons of bloodline.  Today however, it’s abandoned and mostly a curiosity.  Although present day King Robert (Bob the Bald), resides in near-by Antigua.  He still bestows annual honours & awards – literary, of course! 

Friendly or curious? Brown boobies circle us on our voyage

His current subjects are curious brown boobies who flew quiet closely around our rigging as we sailed by.  Still no fish to share!  Only a few nasty barracuda have taken our lure and the Cap'n is sick of pulling them off the hook and returning them. No nice kisses for these guys! 

Nevis is in sight

Nevis is a little laid back and very friendly.  Just a bit behind the times perhaps.  We scoured town to find a shop capable of scanning a couple of documents for us.  It was a lesson in patience. “What?”, said the smartly dressed girl.  “How do you expect me to get these” as she waved our sheets of paper at us, “in to this?” (a pen drive).  GS drew a short, sharp breath and surveyed the shop.  It was a modern communications shop – full of good minimalist design and little else.  It was an “Alice” moment and the GS was seeing red….  Cap’n suggested coffee to relieve the tension….  Despite this, we had the best and fasted broadband internet connection we’d ever had since being in the Caribbean.  Still no scans, but great internet...  So there you go!

Old but not historic

Charlestown itself has a long and interesting history dating from 1600’s, involving slave traders and plantation owners.  Lord Nelson was also drawn to the island, where in the 1780’s, he met and married the Governor’s daughter, Fanny Nesbit.  The Bath House (1778) was the first hotel built in the Caribbean.  Its springhouse (now closed) attracted many a fashionable spa-goer.  The town is a setting worthy of a Jane Austen novel.

 

From: Little Bay, Montserrat Lat/Long: 16 48N  62 12W  Date/Time: 5/6/09: 0705

To: Charlestown, Nevis  Lat/Long: 17 08N  62 38W  Date/Time: 5/6/09: 1315

Time Taken: 33nm (6hrs)  Distance (this year): 447nm (89hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1296nm  (267hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;

(**A pleasant day sail past Redonda, skylarking with brown boobies on the way.  Pinney’s Beach shows a slow recovery from recent hurricane damage.)

Going to Pieces in Avalon

Seeing the Real Montserrat: 4 Jun 09

Nearly there....

Montserrat is not on everyone’s list of must-do places in the Caribbean, however an article in the local cruising rag, Compass (Jun 09), gave us an itch that we needed to scratch.  So, the pick was set in 20 feet and black sand in Little Bay on the north end (safe zone) of the island.  Needless to say, the Cap’n was swamped by a clutch of tour guides when he reported to customs to clear in.  We did sign up for a four hour tour, realising later (as you do!) that 2 hours would have been sufficient.  There’s not a whole lot of the island left that isn’t off limits. 

A personal welcome

Citrus-seeker Joe in Avalon was our appointed guide.  We met his wife, chatted to his son, saw his new house and I'm sure we met all his friends!!  We did some touring too, to fill in any empty moments between waving and tooting all and sundry!! 

Is this really Avalon?  And is this the real fountain of youth?

Joe’s friend, Theresa showed us her fabulous garden, high up on the hills overlooking Little Bay.  She runs a guest house and enjoys cooking with the bounty of her fruitful garden. 

Theresa's bountiful garden

Theresa also has a strong interest in medicinal herbs, so we passed by a good hour combing her garden beds.  Whilst so occupied, Joe cut a coconut for us to drink and sliced off generous pieces of mammy apple, a fruit that was new to us.  It tasted a bit like mango mixed with apricot.  Of course, we stopped to refresh ourselves by tasting pure (running) spring water.  Oh, no!  Not another blasted fountain of youth?  Her Crabbiness reports that this one didn’t work either!

Vocanic Montesrrat under cloud cover

After seeing the lushness of north Montserrat, we had an “up close & personal” look at the devastation caused to the south by this still active volcano.  After “sleeping” for over 400 years, the Montserrat volcano erupted in 1995 with a roar. Further eruptions took place in 1997, 2003, 2006, 2007 and yes, as reported in our Antigua post, 2008 just as we were exploring Antigua.  The photo (above) seems peaceful enough but belies its explosive nature.  Joe had a great photo of the mountain belching huge volumes of dust and smoke with local people calmly shopping at market tables (in front of these shops) for their daily supplies.  No panic, just a calm reserve.  If we ignore it, perhaps it will it go away.....

Image by Ivan25 - Own work, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10880736

Monserrat shows her strength

The extent & depth of volcanic dust that has settled over these years is amazing.  The exclusion zone was filled with ghost houses and resorts, empty and neglected.  Joe had plenty of “before” photos that he was able to show us, so that we could see the true extent of damage from the various vantage points that he took us.  He also drove us up to the Observatory where volcanologists observe and record the daily life of this very active volcano.  It was all incredibly impressive but most of all you really have to admire the stamina of the people to live around it, and in spite of it.  Sobering reality!

An up close and personal tour with Joe

Remains of a dock in what once was a busy port

There are plans a plenty to develop Montserrat; particularly a new, safe site for a capital and then as a tourist destination.  Workers toiled and massive modern machinery pulsed as acres of concrete are shaped into a modern community.  Still, when we saw the imposing prison complex resting high up on a cliff edge (with undoubtedly the best view in Montserrat) we wondered where the funds were really coming from to support this infrastructural flurry.  If you’re into conspiracy theories, Montserrat has 7000 citizens.  How many can be really that bad??

WJ3 afloat in Little Bay