Relics of the Slave Era

Christiansted – the Danish Connection: 12 Jun 09

The Gold Fort

Christiansted’s picturesque historic buildings lured us with a short walking tour.  These pastel painted Danish Government buildings are now on the National Register of Historic Places.  We took Bruce into a town dinghy dock and began a tour from the popular district of Kings Wharf.  We eyed a few watering holes on the boardwalk as possibilities for our later “sundowners”. 

Kings Wharf had been used for commercial trading for more than 250 years.  St Croix was known as the “Garden of the Antilles” and as such hosted many large sugar plantations and molasses factories.  It was also a busy centre for slave trading. 

Fort Defences

We began our tour at Fort Christiansvaern (Christian’s Defences) a well cared for yellow painted fort – known locally as "the golden fort".  Built in 1749 on a site of an old French Fort, this small 4 point citadel was used until 1878, playing out a role that included prison, administration, security and court facilities for a small but busy colony.  In conjunction with gun emplacements located in Protestant Cay and Fort Louise Augusta, this wealthy and industrious settlement was provided with quite formidable protection.  The guns however, were never fired in armed conflict; the fort was used to protect the small colony from pirate attacks, hurricanes and slave revolts. 

Old Customs House

The Danish edge for design was clearly evident, even then and attention paid to detail given trying circumstances.  Interestingly, this compact fort was constructed from Danish bricks, formerly ships ballast.  The wings were well laid out and space, although compact, was well used.  At one time, the cells housed the wife of one of the staffers – her ability to shop outweighed his ability to pay – so he embezzled some funds…  Of course, she was packed off to a jail cell for two years in the hope she would come to her senses! 

Floor tiles St Croix (with toes) - the start of an obsession for tiles?

The rooms used by the Commandant and his family were large, and inviting - pastel colours, lots of perfect views from large windows and high ceilings.  I’m sure other fort occupants (especially the incarcerated) grumbled but again the well thought out, open plan and use of a wide verandah and shutters to cool the rooms made perfect sense in a Caribbean climate.  Lastly, I must pass comment on the well sited latrines.  Don’t the Danish just have an eye for detail! 

Old Sugar Mill

Having spent some time enjoying the Fort, we worked our way through a grid of narrow streets looking at the Customs House, the Old Danish Scale House, the Company Warehouse where slaves were once auctioned and finally Government House.  Our Cap’n distracted a historically minded GS only once – the delights of a second hand bookstore were just too tempting. 

After a quick turn around an old sugar mill right on the dock area, we chose a pub that overlooked Protestant Cay.  This small coral island is now a small resort and Christiansted’s only harbour beach.  Locals take a 5 minute ride to find beach, bar & babes on weekends.  Otherwise, the inner harbour area is crammed with yachties (live-aboards) who add to the milieu of the district.

Buckin' Marvellous

Buck Island at Last!: 12 Jun 09

Buck Island Marine Wildlife Park. Breathe in...hold that pose!

Finally, we managed to dodge reefs and shallows to anchor in the lee of Buck Island.  A short 4½ nm from Christiansted, this small island and surrounding reef system make up an 880 acre marine sanctuary.  We landed in pristine waters off a small beach.  The waters were turquoise and the sand - pure white!  This, we thought, was what we had been hearing about but not seeing.  Finally, a little Caribbean magic!  Just gorgeous!

As an aside, the beach scenes in “The Shawshank Redemption” were filmed in St Croix.  Can we live here?  Only nasty PWC (personal water craft -those buzzy water scooters) broke our quiet reverie – now, where’s that trip wire?

Lucky find on Buck Island

The marine park is a designated National Monument.  It’s easy diving and wonderful snorkelling – hello there Mr Barracuda and Mr Grouper…  Safe in their little playground, they potted about rather too self-assuredly.  Later, we managed to find a gap in the reef (the underwater signage helped – well this is the US!) and came face to flippers with a young turtle going about his daily schedule – finding food.  I could feel the need for an underwater camera coming on!!

As you can see, our Cap'n Charming won the heart of a delightful local.  She must have recognised him from his photo shoot?  Anyway, he couldn't bring her home, even for one of the boys, because nothing can be removed from marine parks.  WJ3 and GS seconded that! 

From: Christiansted, St Croix Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 12/6/09: 0700

To: Buck Island, St Croix  Lat/Long: 17 47N  64 37W  Date/Time: 12/6/09: 0800

Time Taken: 9nm (2hrs) return  Distance (this year): 591nm (129.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1441nm  (297.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds SE 16-18kts; 5ft seas; ESE swell;

(**Conditions made snorkelling a bit of an adventure on E side of island)

 

Good Deed Day

St Croix: 10-12 Jun 09

Oooops!

Our plans for an early start to Buck Island were delayed a little.  “Darling”, said GS as she poured the morning coffee. “Does that yacht look slightly askew to you?”  “I say, darling, yes it does,” replied Cap’n, the scent of drama budding in the early morning air.

You can see the extent of the reef from this picture.
We were anchored over to the right (not in piture).  From Wiki

Middle reef lay claim to its notoriety and had collected yet another victim during the night.  The action unfolded right before our eyes!  Cap’n Speedo could hardly spare time to fix his trusty cape before he and Bruce leapt to the rescue.  It seemed that no-one else was interested….  The victims were an older chap and his trusty Labrador, both of whom the Cap’n transported to the safety of a nearby marina.  Poor miss labby had to be coaxed into the dingy; she’d had a rough night of it.  Safely dispatched, we watched over coffee as the marina lads tried in vain to pull the yacht off the reef with their beefy runabout.  It was well & truly aground, although in reasonable condition, all things considered.  It was still there when we left for Culebra, the next day.

Cap'n & Bruce to the rescue

Later, we watched a couple of blokes in a dinghy, just a few metres from us, as they tried to row against a fresh breeze and current.  Their engine had stalled and an obliging Cap’n offered a tow.  No thanks, they were going to make it!  As they slowly drifted further and further out into the middle of the harbour…  Finally, a shout gained himself’s attention and off he raced; cape hardly dry since last good deed.

Our third good deed was in fact to ourselves.  Yes, we forgot the dinghy engine key in our eagerness to cast off for a snorkelling adventure.  Yes, that same fresh breeze and strong current sure made for some energetic paddling before we made it (slowly) back to WJ3.  Of course, the GS’s helpful (Ed. aka skipper: not helpful ) suggestions were not well received. He described it more as “whining/moaning”!!  Anyway, there’s noticeably less flab on our arms these days…

Free Beer Tomorrow

Stage 2  US Virgin Islands - St Kitts to St Croix: 8-9 Jun 09

Oh Look!  We match!

Despite earlier misgivings, St Croix turned out to be rather nice.  It has all the mod cons, the customs staff were helpful and the harbour not too congested.  On top of all that WJ3 had a bit of a play with a friendly pod of dolphins on the way in.  How nice!

Due to a little (more) engine trouble, the Motleys arrived in style – under sail – to drop anchor.  On-lookers must have thought we were either sailing purists or smart SOB’s.  Christiansted has a reputation as a difficult harbour and reef to negotiate at the best of times – only under good light and never at night, says the Pilot Guide.  Well, go the Aussies!  Yesssssss!

All the mod cons in the Virgins

We took advantage of nearby St Croix Marina to re-water, re-fuel and then hit the boat shop for a few essentials.  The Cap’n must have had shopping withdrawals…..  The GS feigned a continuing fever to avoid doing the grocery shopping and clothes washing – both of which the Cap’n managed to accomplish after a quick reconnoiter of Gallows Bay. 

We planned another day to take advantage of St Croix’s many dive sites and do a little historical walking tour of the lovely old town of Christiansted.  Now, what do they say about plans….yep, written in quick sand…..

From: Basseterre, St Kitts Lat/Long: 17 17N  62 43W  Date/Time: 8/6/09: 1100

To: Christiansted, St Croix  Lat/Long: 17 45N  64 41W  Date/Time: 9/6/09: 1315

Time Taken: 125nm (26hrs)  Distance (this year): 583nm (127.5hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 1432nm  (295.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**

Weather: Winds ESE 10-12kts; 4-6ft waves; E swell;

(**A little rolly & had engine trouble)