Cabin Fever

We saw tugs a plenty

It’s been raining solid for two days now. Bruce looks more like a kiddie’s inflatable wading pool.  Everything is grey and cold – a new sensation we’re not entirely prepared for.  The Miserable Motleys also still have the flu. 

Making new friends

We stayed on in Portsmouth after BW’s departure, with some expectation for the Labor Day weekend, and especially the Rendezvous, Mile Marker Zero festivities, where we understood hundreds of boats came in to celebrate.  Well, not this year.  It was, as the Cap’n said, an under-extravaganza.  So too was the Weekend Sidewalk Sale.  So here we sit, couped up with runny noses, pathetically coughing and sneezing!

We just wanted to share that with you - just in case you thought that life on board was always a bed of roses!!

Nautical Norfolk

Don't look now but it's heading straight for us...

At Norfolk, we threw out the hook and waited.  Waited for the weather to clear, waited for BW to catch his flight home, waited to get over BW’s flu legacy and waited for something entertaining…anything at all really. 

Portsmouth dates back to 1716 and has a more olde worlde feel than Norfolk, reminiscent of its English heritage.  The huge port complex now seems at odds with the charming old district and it’s hard to image that these great grey beasts and others have grown from an industry started by Portsmouth shipbuilders. 

USS Wisconsin

Norfolk and its sister city Portsmouth, offer Naval enthusiasts lots to do.  The Cap’n threw himself to the task, doing tours, taking rides and viewing museums, ports and battleships.  When done with the Navy, he turned to the Army and spent a day with General MacArthur.  Not with him as such, although he is buried on the site.  GS & BW skipped all that for the Mall and a movie, then found a bookshop with an inbuilt Starbucks…   

Oh look, the tide's come in

This is how we passed our days.  Sightseeing a little, shopping a little and trying to find a decent coffee or restaurant.  Finally found one in Portsmouth, Lobscouser.  Also found a supermarket for essentials close to the dingy wharf. Just as well, our bodies were starting to protest the appalling menus on offer (pulled pork is just hideous!).  Most weekends there was something going on in Town Park or The Landings; bands playing and people milling.  Of course, if all else failed we could get internet at Hooters.  Don’t ask!  GS declared Hooters a blonde joke in the making. 

Chrysler Museum of Art

GS, in a moment of triumph even managed to get the Cap’n to the Chrysler Museum of Art.  The Chrysler is renown for its superb collection of glass, including a huge Tiffany collection. You could not help but be fascinated by it. 

Fascinating History Lessons

They also had some really interesting if not macabre, pre-Columbian pieces, particularly pottery that had GS quite enthused.  Perhaps, just a little kiln on WJ3 wouldn’t hurt?  We could tie it on a raft behind Bruce.  Quite an odd little procession & not suitably nautical, me thinks.  Anyway, Cap’n Crafty declared himself full bottle on art galleries and except perhaps for the Louvre, he had seen enuff…for a lifetime!  Back to Hooters then….

Statistics, damn statistics & even more lies....

We began by heading up Island

Just for interest, we’ve calculated a few of our “so far” 09 miles:

Caribbean: Trinidad to Culebra, Spanish Virgins – 638nm (130hrs)

Bahamas: Culebra to West End – 1075nm (215.5hrs)

Gulf Stream Crossing: West End to West Palm Beach - 55nm (8.5 hrs)

Atlantic ICW: West Palm Beach to Norfolk - 927nm (153hrs)

Chesapeake Bay: Norfolk to Deltaville - 96nm (14hrs)

Grand Total this year 09:   2791nm – that’s some sailin’, folks!…

Then took an ICW tour through Florida to Chesapeake Bay
in Virginia.  Whoo hoo!  Map source

Of course, with our few misadventures and different stops than those planned (who could bypass Montserrat?), our schedule has taken longer than anticipated.  We will only see a little of lower Chesapeake Bay this year before laying up WJ3 in Deltaville.  

Still, that leaves plenty more for next year’s adventures! 

Proud Carolinas (Fort Sumter)

Just a reminder about our (almost) real-time tracker.  That's the last link over on your right, folks.   You do need Google Earth to be able to see it but we've been plotting our GPS positions on a world map as way points (on a sailing course) or as stops along the way (eg anchorages, moorings, marinas etc.).  Yes, I know that sounds really boring but you can actually zoom right down and get up almost as close as we were to these places. Smell the salt in the air, even!

Land Ho! The Industrial entry to Norfolk

Some of our postions are a wee bit out - a discrepancy between GE & the GPS I'm afraid - and we've not had the chance to correct them all.  At one stage, one of our flags was not far from Mumbai (Bombay)...  That was not a computer error!  Our poor mother thinks her kids are not only runaway sailors but Krishna ashram devotees too... 

II Nauti Buoys

Coinjock to Norfolk: 28-29 Aug 09

Taking up position behind the Gold Coast

Beyond Coinjock, the Motleys negotiated more shallows and crab pots in North Landing River, crossed the North Carolina and Virginia border and passed a dilapidated Pongo Ferry (marina & restaurant) - perhaps a victim of the recession.  The Albemarle & Chesapeake Canal presented us with a variety of bridges and commercial traffic (large tows) until finally at Great Bridge we halted at the free town dock to anxiously appraise our next challenge – the Great Bridge Lock.  Here we learned that our last 188m had been in fresh water!  So that’s why we hadn’t seen any dolphins or manatees...duh!  The lock is ingeniously set up to separate salt from fresh water, so rather than operating as a “rise”, it is merely a matter of opening and closing gates.

Oh fruit.  It's a lock!

While the Cap’n biked up to have a friendly chat with the Lock operators, BW and GS set about catching crabs, down-home style.  Locals simply set up baited lines, wait for a bit, then slowly pull them in scooping up any blue swimmer crabs with a long fishing net.  They hauled in plenty, whilst we managed a creditable 3, given bait was left-over Bucksport sausage!  BW became champion crabber whilst GS, once a grand barracuda angler, took honourary title of catfish-woman.  We couldn’t even give them away, so it was their reprieve at least!  Not so, the crabs… 

Cooks & cookees

Early next morning, BW & the Cap’n hauled in another 3, and after strong resistance from the crabs, our trusty Cap’n had them in the pot.  BW prepped up some steamed crab omelette for brunch before we ventured forth into the lock, a salty Elizabeth River and then Norfolk beyond – a mere 11m away.  Of course, the railway bridge broke down didn’t it, so our long awaited mile ZERO took quite a bit longer than anticipated.

Celebrating Mile Zero

Norfolk (and Portsmouth) is home to a sizeable US Naval fleet and is a busy port indeed.  WJ3 suddenly seemed a tiny speck against these great, grey giants and we listened carefully to the VHF for large ship movement warnings.  Water police were everywhere and we felt guilty about everything for no apparent reason, as you do!  However, we were left in peace to anchor off Hospital Point, a stone’s throw from Norfolk’s downtown and waterfront.  

Yes, Virginia, there is an end to the ICW…. Now break out that champagne, boys…we’ve made it!!!

From: Coinjock, NC  Lat/Long: 36 21N 75 57W  Date/Time: 28/8/09: 0815

To: Norfolk, VA  Lat/Long: 36 51N 76 18W Date/Time: 29/8/09: 1645

Time Taken: 50nm (11hrs)  Distance (this year): 2695nm (507hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 3544nm  (685hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.5kts**

Weather: Some cloudiness & rain given proximity of TS Danny; still hot & humid

(** motor/sail)

Stumpy Pungo

Beaufort to Coinjock: 24-27 Aug 09

Passing a large "tow"

We had read about boater lethargy; not wanting to leave port once safely at anchor or not wanting to stop once back on the road (or ditch actually)!  Not far from Beaufort lay the 200 mile marker (to the end of the ICW) and beyond 35N.  Again, we were keen to make up miles. 

Fishing Fleet

Typically, WJ3’s engines got a good workout before we stopped to spend an evening looking out over Goose Creek hiding from mozzies, and feeling quite safe until a Coast Guard Alert came over the VHF.  Thunderstorms and high winds, including a water spout, off the Pamlico River.  Oh no! That’s where we are!  (Actually there was quite a bit of swearing too – and it wasn’t the Coasties!)  We waited as dark clouds approached and then thankfully passed us by.  We did not see (and didn’t want to see) that water spout, even at a distance.

Sunset over Little Aligator Creek

The waterways opened up considerably after Goose Creek - Neuse River, Pamlico River then Pamlico Sound.  We steered by compass, lines of crab pots and the odd lonely ICW marker.  We even put up a sail and tried to remember how to use it; fair sailing until we reached sleepy Belhaven on the Pungo River.  The wifi café was closed (surprise! surprise!) but we managed to check our email at the local library.  Kindly, they let us stay for the afternoon, typing away in air-conditioned bliss.  Locals were exceptionally friendly, even offering rides and every assistance.

Crabs a go-go in Belhaven

Further up river, lay the Alligator-Pungo canal, 23 miles of stump jumpin’ and snag swervin’.  We had hardly passed any traffic at all in these waters and waved at them like sailors possessed if we did.  At the head of the Alligator River where it meets Albemarle Sound, and even more exposed waters, we nervously anchored off Little Alligator River amongst dozens of crab pots and duck blinds.  (The Motleys have set a world record for duck blind jokes, so don’t even ask!  It’s amazing what lack of TV can do for you!)  Although very shallow at 7-9ft, the sound can open up to 18ft!!  Wow! 

Stumpy Pungo

Strong winds cause steep, short waves making this area a wee bit of a mariner’s nightmare in bad weather.  Luckily, the weather held and we made a safe passage over to North River and North Carolina Cut. 

Early Morning calm at Coinjock Marina

Mid-way along this cut is Coinjock, nothing more than a couple of marina docks lining a canal.  Anchorages had been fairly sparse and any available were festooned with crab pots, so we tied up at Coinjock Marina.  It was a welcome change and offered protection if Tropical Storm Danny did decide to hit the coast with some lousy weather.  Tucked up in our air-conditioned beds in calm canal waters, we watched late night “tows” go by and allowed our feast of prime rib (half a cow per plate) to settle slowly.  More importantly, Coinjock lies at mile 50….  Only 50nm to go to Norfolk!  How exciting is that?

Crabbing at Belhaven

From: Beaufort, NC Lat/Long: 34 42N 75 39W  Date/Time: 24/8/09: 0930

To: Coinjock, NC  Lat/Long: 36 21N  75 57W Date/Time: 27/8/09: 1400

Time Taken: 154nm (24hrs)  Distance (this year): 2645nm (496hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 3494nm  (674hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**

Weather: Slight winds, calm seas; a few clouds about and a little rain to cool us down

(** motor/sail with all 3 sails out at one stage)

Blackbeard's Favourite Haunt

Down Taylors Creek

Welcome to North Carolina

We entered Taylors Creek, and anchored off busy downtown Beaufort.  Beaufort is little more than a village but has a wealth of history, of which locals are extremely proud.  Beaufort is also very boatie friendly, supplying at least two public jetties no less (to tie up Bruce) and a very large dockside marina for transients.

Shackleford Pony on one of the Inner Banks Islands

Taylors Creek channel was narrow so Cap’n Considerate put out two anchors (Bahama-style – two anchors from the bow) to limit our encroachment.  We then relaxed, watching migratory Canada Geese and wild Shackleford ponies grazing over on Carrot Island, and prepared our list of things to do while we waited for BW to arrive.

Beaufort Town Docks

Of course that in itself is a bit of a story.  There are no airports in Beaufort, the nearest being 30 miles away.  Having missed his scheduled flight from New York (was it a great pub crawl or just tired from too much site-seeing?), further delays meant that it took him 3 flights, 2 days and a looong taxi ride before he caught up with us.  Our Cap’n was no longer considerate and relished his chance to “take the mickey”. 

In Beaufort, we took a double-decker bus tour (yes, that’s right – a 1960’s model) round town dodging tree branches and electrical wires sagging in the heat, with a guide dressed in period costume telling us tales tall and true about Beaufort’s seafaring past.  As always, it was an excellent introduction and gave us a good start point for further explorations.

Historical Homes

The Maritime Museum is well stocked and despite GS’s groans (too many model boats), it turned out to be very interesting.  An item of particular note was a life-saving capsule.  It was used in flying-fox fashion to rescue folks from coastal shipwrecks.  Although small, it held as many as 11 adults (lying down) in a sealed coffin-like container.  It would have been a terrifying ride as it bounced along crashing through heavy seas on its way to shore and safety. 

Up Hammock Lane, and up Beaufort’s only hill (or “hummock” at 12’ above sea level) sits a quaint cottage with a terrifying history.  It was once an Inn, residence of the one and only Blackbeard.  Aside from ghastly goings on in the house, even the trees at the front were not spared. 

Ancient Burial Grounds

They were often used for hangings (one of his more difficult wives apparently).  Given its past, the house is haunted big-time (human bones have been found in excavations) and had not been occupied until fairly recently.  Even then, owners only seem to stay a few years before moving away.

Look who we found....

We ended our days sampling a few local brews on the dock before eating dinner out.  Spouters Inn (as in whale spout) has the best seafood we’ve had so far in the US.  It tasted like seafood should…  We also tried soft-shell crab – a local favourite.  Yes, the shell is eaten (it’s soft, silly!).

Again we were sad to bid Beaufort and its lovely historic homes farewell, but Big Bill was getting closer (more or less) and we were still not yet at that magic 35 degrees and out of the hurricane zone.  I’m not sure that anyone’s told Bill that however…

A Grounding a Day ......

Charleston to Beaufort: 17-21 Aug 09

Thankfully not us...

Reluctantly, we left Charleston and headed north on the ditch again.  Two reasons – Hurricane Bill was heading north and although not predicted to come our way, it would push off some weather in our direction, mostly rain, wind, storms and wildly fluctuating tides.  Secondly, we were to meet Boy Wonder in Beaufort and looked forward to having some extra crew.

Not far along we managed our second grounding at Price Creek.  After assistance from friendly locals, WJ3 refused to budge so we simply put out the anchor (mid channel!!), made a coffee in our new coffee pot and waited for the tide to come in!  We had a third (disputed) grounding at Crow Island in the Santee Swamp.  Our trusty Cap’n said it was actually a near miss!  Of course it was! (chuckle chuckle!)

Beached not grounded

Gradually the scenery changed from palms to pines and lots of reeds or marshlands.  Crab pots were everywhere and whilst many consider them a nuisance (ropes tend to get caught in props) we found that they obligingly defined our narrow channel and thus deep water.  Much of this area is quite isolated and it was a nice change to observe lots of bird life and dolphins, although we never saw any more gators.  They must be human-shy!  Hardly surprising since many menus offered gator tail – fried of course!

We anchored out in Winyah Bay, on the river not too far south of Georgetown, another historical city.  It was buggy but calm considering the wide expanse of water and closeness to the sea.  The next day our Cap’n steered us up the Waccamaw River, said to have the best scenery along the ICW.  The river was lined with swamp cedars, a number of old plantations and more than a few fabulous old houses.  Very beautiful!

WJ3 at Bucksport Marina

WJ3’s engine was missing a few beats, so we turned in early to Bucksport Marina, enabling us to catch up on essentials.  Our obliging host, Richard helped us settle in.  We refueled, gave ourselves, WJ3 and our clothes a good scrub and then sat back to a nice dinner (also cooked by Richard).  Over a glass of wine on the verandah overlooking a cypress swamp (bears, deer and gators) we even managed to get an internet connection.  Best of all, we had aircon to sweeten our dreams.  Can we stay for a bit longer???  We left the next morning with a fridge full of ice, America’s best sausages, and a few frozen beers.

Yes, that's two stuck on the mud...

A grounding a day?  Yes, we reconnected with mother mud again!  This time at Corking Neck, Little River, not far from the South/North Carolina border.  Yes, it was low tide, yes we were in the channel and yes, we had lots of offers of assistance.  After swinging free, we motored on to our next challenge.  A Coast Guard report advised that the Sunset Beach Bridge was closed.  How can they do this to us, we wondered?  After all there was no suitable ocean channel nearby to get around it.  Would we have to retreat back to Charleston (and meet those two speed bumps again)?  Interestingly, the bridge looked like a rusty old barge and part of engineering bits and bobs necessary when building new bridges.  In fact it was an historic pontoon & cable bridge that locals are seeking to preserve.  It closes during low tide (because of the underwater cable) but kindly, they opened for us.  We imaged the dangers of catching a cable in WJ3’s keel & rudder but made it through without incident! 

Waccamaw River

The Motley’s anchored for the night in Pipeline Canal (south of Southport) and had a peaceful night even though the tide dropped over 6 feet to 6 feet – at least we were still floating – just!  We negotiated our way north passing many inlets, over many speed bumps, and given many shoal warnings!  At New River we had a near miss and at Bear Creek Inlet, our wake made a definite W as we searched for deeper water!  Deep water to us now meant anything over 5 feet…..  At Mile Hammock Bay, we anchored near a boat called “Wombat”.  Of course it was the only other boat in the anchorage and yes, Barry was an Aussie!  Mile Hammock is on Marine property and we spent an eerie evening in a thrilling scene from “Apocalypse Now” as training was conducted around and above us. 

Finally, we had Beaufort in our sights.  As we entered the deep shipping channel near Morehead, a fellow cruiser, heading south on a sailboat, hailed us.  “Are we on the Intracoastal?” they asked, “We’re headed for Charleston”.  We wondered how they could do this chartless and took bets on how long it would be before they went aground.  Stunned, we simply radioed back..... “yes”

From: Charleston, SC Lat/Long: 32 47N 79 57W  Date/Time: 17/8/09: 0730

To: Beaufort, NC  Lat/Long: 34 42N  76 39W Date/Time: 21/8/09: 1330

Time Taken: 265nm (45hrs)  Distance (this year): 2491nm (472hrs)

Distance Total (since 2008): 3340nm  (650hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.5kts**

Weather: A mixed bag of hot sunny weather; high humidity, mild breezes and thankfully cooler evenings. The swamps were oppressive. GS imagined herself as an extra in “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof”

(** Back to Mr Engine)

Pineapples, Feather Beds & Quilts

Charleston Town Houses

Heywood Washington House

We stayed another day in Charleston to explore some of the grand homes open for inspection.  We started with the Edmondston-Alston House (1825) that looks out over Charleston Harbour and Fort Sumter.  General Beauregard used this house to view the bombardment of Fort Sumter and later General Lee took refuge in the house while the Great Fire (1861) ravaged the city.  We were able to tour 2 of the three levels and admire many family heirlooms typical of the period.  One piece that took our fancy was a joggling chair.  This piece sat proudly out on the piazza and when sat on, bounced up and down, replicating riding a cantering horse.  A modern day exercise bike as it were! 

Further down Church Street, we called in to see Heywood-Washington House (1772), built by rice planter, Daniel Heywood as a townhouse for his son.  At one time, George Washington stayed in the house, perhaps even in that same 4 poster feather bed.  There are few family owned pieces exhibited in the house, however there is a wonderful collection of locally built furniture that dates from that period.  We were fortunate enough to see original William Hogarth prints, “Marriage a la Mode” (1743) and many family portraits (oils).  The gardens were beautifully maintained in a traditional style by a local volunteer gardening group.

External Kitchen at Heywood Washington House

Carolina lays claim to its own style of house, called a “single”.  It’s a narrow house, one room wide facing the street, 3 storeys high and up to 3 rooms deep.  On one long side, generally a south or west façade, a verandah of either one or two levels, locally called a piazza, were added.  The family entrance, into a central hallway, was located in the middle of the piazza side.  A side walled garden and path lead to the main entrance and further down to the kitchen and stables.  A high wall between houses ensured privacy, especially on hot summer days when the drawing room doors were wide open.  Traditionally, the underside of the piazzas were painted light blue - some say to ward off jinns or at least mosquitoes. 

Laundry

Sometimes a family might add a special entrance (at street level and facing the street) for business visitors. The ground floor contained a front parlour for those business visitors and a back dining room, with an adjacent warming room or butler’s pantry.  Rooms upstairs on the second level were used for entertaining guests. These are the drawing rooms (for drawing friends together).  Here visitors could escape the dust and noise from the street outside and doors to the piazza could be thrown open to catch cooling sea breezes.  Bedrooms were on the third floor.  The only slave to sleep inside was the children’s nanny.

"Welcome Pineapples" at the Front Door

The kitchen was a separate building, by law 18 feet from the house; a fire regulation.  It too had up to three levels; kitchen and laundry on the ground floor and bedrooms for family slaves above.  Beyond this was the “necessary”, a wonderful name for a toilet.  Also in the yard was a carriage house and stables.  Many homes also had a cow and chickens.  All this on city blocks not much different in size to ours today!

We discovered the meaning of Charleston’s pineapples.  A traditional symbol of hospitality and welcome (ask any patchwork lady about pineapple designs) many pineapples appear as decorations on homes around town.  We were told that in days gone by, sea captains would put a pineapple out on their gates when they were ready to receive guests.  Once the pineapple had gone, visiting-time was over.  Likewise, those grand sweeping staircases typical of this area symbolise welcoming arms.

House viewings are conducted by tour guides.  You are generally not allowed to wander freely or take photographs.  Our guides were mostly ladies (volunteers) with wonderful Southern drawls - so appropriate to each setting – who answered my many questions most obligingly!  Having said that, we were often complimented on our accent; “Ah just lurve yaw ackscent!” 

Low Country Hospitality

Low Country Boil and Hushpuppies

Schooner on the Ashley

Charleston is certainly worth seeing.  It was founded in 1670 and soon became a wealthy colony of rice, tobacco and indigo plantations.  Wealthy plantocracy meant not only stunning plantation houses but equally stunning town houses.  The old district has a wealth of striking and well cared for houses.  Gardens are maintained to show standard and even public buildings seem to reflect that gracious, southern charm.  Streets were lined with live oaks dripping with Spanish moss or beautiful pink crepe myrtles.  We were entranced.

Cannon at Fort Sumter

South Carolina had been the first state to declare independence from the Union.  Soon after, in 1861, the first shots of the Civil War were fired just off the city’s harbour.  We had sailed near the little island where Fort Sumter stands proudly on our way in and were keen to see it and learn a little more about American history and the war.  Our experience so far had been that a great deal of effort goes into not only preserving and caring for the past but also educating America’s citizens about their cultural heritage. 

Our guidebook suggested many options, so after an extensive bike ride through some lovely streets, we chose to board a horse and carriage for a more leisurely twilight tour.  We filled our heads with places to see and things to do.  But first, a drink at an old English Pub, then a seafood dinner!  Dinner was not to be recommended but we wandered about Waterfront Park and Old City Market, found a coffee pot (yahoo!!!) and caught a glimpse of sweet grass basket sellers and their wares.  This style of basket weaving is traditional to the African-American Gullah peoples. 

Singin' the Blues on Catfish Row

Nearby we chanced upon Catfish Row, a small side street that is said to have inspired that classic Gershwin musical, “Porgy & Bess”.  A little further on in Chalmers Street is the Old Slave Market area, which at the time was credited as one of the busiest.  

We found out that a “raw bar” serves raw oysters, cold shrimp and sushi (American style – almost cooked) aside from a cold beer or two.  We gave grits a miss and wondered about hushpuppies (corn breads deep fried) served with honey butter.  Fried green tomatoes really do exist as a popular starter or appetiser.  A menu listed entrée is to us a main course. And worst of all, coffee aint coffee...  Are you keeping up with me?