Low Country Hospitality

Low Country Boil and Hushpuppies

Schooner on the Ashley

Charleston is certainly worth seeing.  It was founded in 1670 and soon became a wealthy colony of rice, tobacco and indigo plantations.  Wealthy plantocracy meant not only stunning plantation houses but equally stunning town houses.  The old district has a wealth of striking and well cared for houses.  Gardens are maintained to show standard and even public buildings seem to reflect that gracious, southern charm.  Streets were lined with live oaks dripping with Spanish moss or beautiful pink crepe myrtles.  We were entranced.

Cannon at Fort Sumter

South Carolina had been the first state to declare independence from the Union.  Soon after, in 1861, the first shots of the Civil War were fired just off the city’s harbour.  We had sailed near the little island where Fort Sumter stands proudly on our way in and were keen to see it and learn a little more about American history and the war.  Our experience so far had been that a great deal of effort goes into not only preserving and caring for the past but also educating America’s citizens about their cultural heritage. 

Our guidebook suggested many options, so after an extensive bike ride through some lovely streets, we chose to board a horse and carriage for a more leisurely twilight tour.  We filled our heads with places to see and things to do.  But first, a drink at an old English Pub, then a seafood dinner!  Dinner was not to be recommended but we wandered about Waterfront Park and Old City Market, found a coffee pot (yahoo!!!) and caught a glimpse of sweet grass basket sellers and their wares.  This style of basket weaving is traditional to the African-American Gullah peoples. 

Singin' the Blues on Catfish Row

Nearby we chanced upon Catfish Row, a small side street that is said to have inspired that classic Gershwin musical, “Porgy & Bess”.  A little further on in Chalmers Street is the Old Slave Market area, which at the time was credited as one of the busiest.  

We found out that a “raw bar” serves raw oysters, cold shrimp and sushi (American style – almost cooked) aside from a cold beer or two.  We gave grits a miss and wondered about hushpuppies (corn breads deep fried) served with honey butter.  Fried green tomatoes really do exist as a popular starter or appetiser.  A menu listed entrée is to us a main course. And worst of all, coffee aint coffee...  Are you keeping up with me?