Sunday 16 August 2009

Faulty Towers

The Real Fountain of Youth....sure!
Ridin' that Train round town
St Augustine (mile 778) proved to be just what the doctor ordered in terms of distraction from our woes.  Although touristy, it was well planned with quite a bit to see and do.  We rode round town in the geeky but fun, red train to get an overview of offerings and then over to a Starbucks (coffee & cake at last!) where we planned our day.  The Cap’n headed off for the Sailor’s Exchange (not a tourist destination) so the GS headed for the Dow Historic Houses and museum. 
This one's gotta work...
There are several layers of history to St Augustine which make it especially interesting.  Ponce de Leon landed here and claimed Florida for Spain in 1513, ignoring of course, the local Timucuan Indian population.  Ponce de Leon was also famous for his quest to find the fountain of youth.  He believed that he had discovered it in a nearby sulphur spring.  In 1565, the Spanish established St Augustine as an outpost to protect their loaded treasure fleets sailing home on the strength of the Gulf Stream current.  By 1695, Castillo de San Marcos stood as a threat to enemies both from sea and land.  It is constructed of coquina (or shell limestone) blocks, which proved impervious to cannon fire!  Many of the earlier homes in St Augustine are also constructed of coquina.
Castillo de San Marcos
Florida was transferred to English control in 1763 and remained loyal to the crown even during the American Revolution.  However, in 1783, it was again returned to Spain until the Americans gained control in 1821.  In the aftermath of the Seminole Wars and later Civil War, St Augustine became a winter retreat for northerners.  Henry Flagler, a self-made millionaire, saw tourist potential in the small town and he set out to build resorts for wealthy patrons.  In particular, he capitalised on St Augustine’s Spanish heritage and developed a unique Spanish Renaissance Revival architectural style. 
Spanish Mortar
In 1888, the Ponce de Leon Hotel opened its doors for 450 guests.  It now hosts rather more college students as the Flagler College and only a little less luxuriously.  In that same year, he also had the Hotel Alcazar built as a casino, ballroom and pool/spar resort to entertain his guests.  The luxurious pool is now filled in but the ballroom has been restored to reflect the elegant splendour of America’s Gilded Age.  As the Lightner Museum, it allows public access to this grand building and its collection of rare and expensive items.  These include many Tiffany stained glass works, large, stuffed animals and rare art works; all of which were used to make the wealthy feel at home, away from home!
At home along the ICW
Aside from these delights, we also visited (& tasted) the San Sebastian Winery, which uses vines/styles dating back to Spanish times.  We goofed off at the Ripley’s (Believe it or Not) Museum, then were entertained local style at the drinkin’ (& pickup) bar, Trade Winds.  We also sat in a nearby park for an evening of free Country & Western.  All good tonic for weary, overwrought sailors.

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