Maine Event

We had chosen Mt Desert to leap into our Maine cruising schedule.  The area is considered “quintessential” Maine.  Acadia National Park covers much of the island and elsewhere, stately homes owned by the likes of Martha Stewart, sit in stands of pines along rocky granite bays - inspiration to wordsmiths, artists and even left-brainers.

Acadia National Park, Mt Desert Island

Mt Desert’s wild beauty has always attracted the wealthy; the Astors, Fords, Carnegies, Rockefellers and Vanderbilts were among those who retreated to their summer “cottages” to partake of Maine’s cool air, pristine hiking trails and chilly waters.  Mt Desert’s first recorded sighting by Europeans was as early as 1524 and Samuel de Champlain formally named the island in 1604; it was part of “New France”.  The island’s interests were then held by the French for many years until after the Revolutionary War.  Preservation came much later but under the leadership of George B Dorr who, inspired by Mt Desert’s rugged beauty, encouraged land and financial donations to preserve it.  In 1916, 6000 acres became a designated national park.  Artists, naturalists, campers and rusticators (summer people) made the island a fashionable retreat until a devastating fire in 1947 consumed many homes and much of the woodlands.  The park, long since recovered, has some 35,000 acres to explore, including smaller islands off the coast.  Cars can traverse some of the roads and byways, but it’s much better to take a horse & carriage or ride the LL Bean eco-buses (gas powered).

Bar Harbor

The Motleys had already covered one of Mt Desert’s famed harbours, Southwest, and now sailed Somes Sound in search of shelter.  After Earl’s terrible tantrum, we spent a few pleasant days – true gunkholing – watching bald eagles fly, kayakers paddle about nooks & crannies, gorgeous sunsets and people swim (including our Cap’n but he is a Victorian) in the oh, so clean waters.  Then it was on to Northeast Harbor to pick up a mooring ball.  This harbour too was pretty; we were tempted to stay a few days.  The village and its conveniences were only a step away, including a fabulous library (with free wifi & a fireplace) and an island explorer bus stop.

We stepped aboard to take the scenic loop road – 27 miles past Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan & Bubble Ponds and Cadillac Mountain.  We didn’t hike on account of GS’s still recovering ankle but the drive was nice.  Bar Harbor retains its quaint village atmosphere despite the influx of tourists (millions), including glamorous passenger ships nearly every other day in season.  You could tell the difference between cruisers and cruisers.  We had that windswept, clothes more than 3 days old, unshaved look…  GS poked around in touristy shops and even found a quilt shop to buy a few Maine themed prints – moose, bears, eagles, pinecones etc.  There’s a zoo close by with the real thing (moose, bears etc) in Trenton across from Mt Desert, but we had come to our “turnaround” time.

Northeast Harbor

One of the joys of sailing is catching up, often unexpectedly, with friends you meet along the way.  “Cricket” (home to Pam, Ben & lovely Lila) had also spent some time in Deltaville Boatyard.  They set sail a little earlier in the season, so it was fun to catch up and compare ports of call and sights seen.  They were on their way to Rockport to have some electrical work done before heading back down to the Chesapeake – maybe.  See you on the water!

From: Somes Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 21N  68 19W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1130
To: Northeast Harbor, ME  Lat/Long: 44 17N  68 16W  Date/Time: 6/9/10: 1330
Time Taken: 7nm (2hrs)  Distance (this year): 825nm (157.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 4465nm (856.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: See Note**
Weather: Winds SW 10-15kts G20kts; Seas 1-3ft; a bit of a slop on the Sound
(** Motored back down Somes Sound (into the sun) dodging lobster pots!)