Crabby Ole Boy



Warner's book is a must read if you want to
really know what makes the Chesapeake tick

Here we are on lower Chesapeake.  It’s not until you see it that you realise the extent of this waterway and begin to understand its diversity.  Chesapeake Bay is about 200 miles long, stretches an average of 20 miles wide and its muddy waters are about 20 feet deep.  These shallow and protected waters offer more than 4000 miles of coastline and feed from several major rivers.

The basin was created some 35 million years ago by a mega-meteorite (7^th June just after lunch), according to local sailing mag, “SpinSheet” .  See, sailors do still spin yarns!!.  In truth, deep natural channels are actually remains of an ancient Susquehanna River, fed in prehistoric times by glaciers to the north.  Unbelievably, it still flows deep below the Bay’s tepid waters – a drowned river. 

Step 1: Cut off face, gills and tail flap

All that water flowing in and out of the Bay makes for a heady mix - saltwater in the south (Norfolk), brackish mid-Bay and freshwater in the northern regions.  Just add a lot of silt, mud, marshland and eel grass and you have a perfect paradise for crabs.  It’s just as well!  Huge quantities are taken from the Bay each year and packed off to processing plants and restaurants across the country.  

Step 2: Dip in egg & milk, then bread crumb mix

Last October, if you recall, we had the good fortune to attend a crab cracking.  Dozens of steamed hard shells, liberally sprinkled with “Old Bay” seasoning were thickly spread across plastic covered tables.  We wasted no time in using mallets and meat pickers to get at that delicious, sweet flesh.  This year, we arrived in time to sample soft shells.  GS decided, on advice from the ladies at J&W Seafoods, to go it alone.  Soft shells have moulted and are mostly small to really small.  The whole crab is dusted with seasoning mix and deep fried.  We chomped and chewed our way through 3 crabs each, claws and all.  We both agreed that you have to try most things at least once. 

Step 3: Fry 2-3 mins per side

A lot of the hard shell crab catch seems to be “picked” so this saves us a nasty job of shelling.  Meat is graded, packaged and sent to market.  Some is used to make crab cakes, a local speciality.  We’ve sampled jumbo lump crab cakes (delicious) as part of a “top shelf” sampling of locally caught seafood. 

Step 4: Eat before they escape

Seafood on the whole is served battered and deep fried or covered in pungent sauces/spices.  Locals consume seafood at arster (oyster) roasts; clam bakes and in raw bars.  Another favourite, although I think it originates further south, is a low country boil – a messy mix of seafood, meats and vegetables steamed in beer and spices eaten right off the table. 

Meanwhile, I’ve been reading William Warner’s “Beautiful Swimmers”.  Written in 1976, it's a tribute to Chesapeake’s favourite blue crabs and provides an insight into the lives of hardworking watermen who catch them.  It seems we, the recreational crabbing set, are known as “chicken neckers” after our favourite crab bait, and are the scourge of watermen up and down the bay.  I don’t think they have a lot to worry about just yet – we’re still up on the hard!!

Head First

Down at the Docks

It’s been a little over 3 weeks since we arrived in Deltaville and all I’ve seen of the Captain is ahemmm!… his rear end!  He’s been head first in the bilges, in the engine bay, in the rear lockers, in the water tanks and especially in the head….

The Cap'n tests all his new equipment

Heads, as every landlubber knows are fickle devices - ones that cause embarrassing moments such as not working or blocking up. They’re a likely cause of sinking (stinking too!) the boat or even worse, guaranteed, at their mere mention, to incur the Captain’s wrath.  Here in the US, they are very head conscious and have potty patrols (in stinkboats, ha ha haaaa!!!).  I kid you not!!  You can be waved down, boarded and have your heads checked and tested – making sure that you’re not, sin of sins, pumping overboard. Then you're fined too!  In the interests of sound ecological practices aboard WJ3, we have turfed out our forward cabin head and replaced it with a new COMPOSTING loo.  Yes, that’s right folks, made by sailors for sailors, composting loo.  We have humped aboard a large bag of peat moss for said compost starting agent and….when it’s fully installed, cross our fingers and hope it really works.  And or course, at that time, it will be christened “the turdis”.

Survived another winter...

Enough potty humour for now… WJ3 is well on the way to becoming a spoilt princess as more and more repairs, maintenance or upgrades are completed. Two new sails (Rolly Tasker spinnaker & storm trysail); a series drogue; a wash-down pump (to wash muddy anchors & stop GS swearing – sound carries across water you know!); a cute little crane to lift Bruce’s engine (no more winch grinding now!); a new stereo and assorted electronics including the autopilot, to replace our Titusville frizzled ones and finally, a nice new radar to complete her ensemble. 

It's still a long way to the bath house

Bruce has not been spared beauty treatment either.  He sports new wheels (in a lovely grey to match his sun jacket) and will soon have a boarding ladder fitted.  The GS’s slithering seal impersonations (getting on/off Bruce from the water) inspired this addition.  Why can’t everyone be graceful like skindiving super-chick, Valerie Taylor?

Adds a whole new meaning to "outdoor dunny".
Photos of toilets?  OK, so we're excited to go composting.

From the First Mate’s perspective, nasty mould has been cleaned off woodwork; water tanks have been cleaned out and refilled (twice); a new freezer installed (at last, one that works!); another sewing machine (canvas work not quilting, darn!) has been added to the “fleet” – we have at least one each per boat now; nautical pictures have been hung jauntily on walls, and best of all, new, comfy mattresses installed.  Guests will appreciate the new luxe look in their aft cabin.    

Hooray!  New mattresses thanks to Dennis in Deltaville

This week’s major challenge is to drive (on the correct side of the road) to Richmond to renew our cruising permit… If not then it’s back to the boat to spend the rest of our sailing season growing veggies in our cockpit.  We’ll have lots of compost, you see.  Yes, the Captain actually convinced a local that’s what we were going to do with it…. 

Landlubbers indeed!

Renovating can be like working on an archaeological dig - it's amazing what little gems you find in amongst 30 plus years of accumulations...  So here it is – our little bit of life from the 70’s.

This book by Michael Green (1976) would have to be one of the funniest books we've ever read about "the cruising life".  Of course it is, he's a Brit!  The illustrations by John Jensen are also very clever and we have long decided that this one pretty well sums up our cruising relationship... then and now.  Yes indeedie, that really was our honeymoon - a short cruise up to Broken Bay and back. And no, we weren't laughing at the time!

And so it did!

On a (more recent) cruising note, we start the long haul back to Deltaville at the end of April.  From there we expect to get to Nova Scotia at least, taking stops along the way including Washington, New York (yes, again!!) and then up into Maine, New England area.  There is no definite cruising plan yet just that we want to be back to the Chesapeake in time to visit the Annapolis Sail Boat Show in Oct – said to be the world’s biggest – before putting WJ3 back to bed in Deltaville.  Our plans are (mostly) always flexible.  Our sailing blog will recommence once GS arrives in Deltaville (and all the hard work’s been done).  Before then, our crusty Captain will be too busy paying close attention to his other woman….

Anyone interested in culture/our New York high jinks should follow the textiletourist link (on the right.  It too is being given a makeover, so one day soon it should be finished!).

End of the Trail

Yorktown to Deltaville: 13 Sep 09

The Motleys celebrated their last night in YRYH marina’s Crab Deck with friends Tim, Sherrie, Timothy and Sarah.  Chesapeake is famous for its crabs and we were not disappointed. After a casual & late Sunday start, WJ3’s engine was warmed up and off we went - the long and circuitous route to Deltaville (remember those shallow patches and ships channels?).

YRYH Marina up Sarah Creek

The weather was somewhat kinder; sails were set and we had lots of company.  Yes folks, people sail in this neck of the woods.  There’s the usual gin palaces though, for getting from one marina & restaurant to another in a hurry, but it was good to see so much sail & keel action happening.  The Chesapeake is quite wide at this point.  You can’t see one side from the other and certainly couldn’t get too close to land anyway - one of the disadvantages of shallow water cruising.  We knew however, from our Yorktown wanderings, that Virginia is very pretty.  Deltaville did not disappoint us.  A nice quiet little anchorage up a scenic creek overlooking a marina and WJ3’s new home. 

First Sighting of  Deltaville Marina

WJ3 has to be “winterized”, prepared for her cool climate boatyard, so we are now busy taking down sails, cleaning and changing oils etc – the not-so-fun stuff.  I’m sure the Cap’n will soon start his own boats & bobs blitherings (on our Hunter460 link) for all you people interested in the more technical aspects of boating….  Come on…there’s got to be at least one of you?

Wolf Trap

From this point on, Motleys are spending a week cleaning up and then setting off for New York – sure hope our friend there likes to see lots & lots of photos…..  Anyway, this will be our last post of the season, until we get home at least.  The Motleys gratefully thank all family & friends who have endured all our posts (& many photos) and have not been too upset when we haven’t sent timely replies to your emails.  Ah, the relentless quest for wifi…   It has been fun to have you along for the ride, so as to speak!  We’ve finally decided to come back next May to cruise further north, perhaps up as far Canada to do a little bear & moose trackin’.  While we’re so close, then why ever not?  Perhaps give us time for a few more chin ups in preparation for that Atlantic crossing the year after…

From: Yorktown, VA  Lat/Long: 37 14N  76 30W  Date/Time: 13/9/09: 1300

To: Deltaville, VA  Lat/Long: 37 32N  76 19W Date/Time: 13/9/09: 1845
Time Taken: 36nm (6hrs)  Distance (this year): 2791nm (521hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 3640nm  (699hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**
Weather: Winds NE 5-10kts; Seas 1-2ft; an assisting incoming tide
(** Mostly motoring with a little sail at times; avg 5-6kts)

Fallin' for Chesapeake

Norfolk to Yorktown: 9 Sep 09 

On Guard Duty at the Fort

This cold snap continued; 1st September marks the start of Fall (Autumn) so perhaps it’s really here to stay.  Nice not to be sweating day and night for a change…

Cottage Garden in the Fort, Yorktown

The weather cleared (a very little) so Cap’n Restless declares his intent to move on.  Rugged up in wet weather gear and jumpers, the Motleys made for Chesapeake Bay; dodging war ships, aircraft carriers, tug boats and tows down to the mouth of the Elizabeth River.  Looking back, even from more than a couple of miles out, you could not mistake the outline of those huge navy ships. 

Out on the Bay, our ride was really bumpy, the wind right on our nose (as always) and the waters very shallow.  We decided to stick to the main shipping channels for at least 20 - 40 feet of water, making our trip a lot longer but less testing…  Yorktown, up the York River, was our intended destination as we had a few days to kill before our scheduled arrival in Deltaville.  We arrived late at Yorktown Landing, picked up a nearby mooring and sat out a night of increasing slop. “What do you think of this mooring?” asked a cheery Cap’n the next morning.  “%#@&” replied GS.  “Should we stay at the Landing or go over to the Sarah Creek marina?” he asked.   “&%#@*, marina NOW”, said GS, popping another seasick pill.  And so it was, we pulled into the York River Yacht Haven, pier 4, bay 10.  Bliss; not so much as a ripple on the water – and it had a swimming pool!

Susan Constant at Dock' Yorktown

WJ3 at Dock, Sarah Creek

The weather continued to clear and warm up (just) so we took a free bus along a very scenic Colonial Parkway over to Jamestown Settlement, a little less than an hour away.  The Settlement is an historic park, not far from the site of the first English landing in 1607 on the James River. Aside from the usual museum, films and exhibits, staff dress in period costume typical of Colonial America and demonstrate how life would have been for those first 104 settlers.  We boarded replicas of colonial ships, marched through an early fort and watched soldiers fire muskets and cannons. Later, we chatted to friendly Indians in the Powhatan village about the not-so friendly things they did with sharpened oyster shells. 

Firing at Yorktown

The next day we had sun….  So we loaded our bikes up into the marina car and explored nearby Yorktown.  First stop was the Victory Centre, a similar set-up to Jamestown Settlement, where costumed guides walked us through life in a Continental Army encampment and a 1780’s farm.  Fires smoked, food was cooking and chickens roamed free.  Children are particularly encouraged with plenty of hands-on activities, although picking the apples was not one of them! 

Continental Army Camp

Saturday’s market down at Riverwalk Landing tempted us, so off we biked for a stroll around town.  We had coffee, tasted offerings at the market, looked at paintings and photographs for sale and visited most of the shops housed in cute period cottages.  GS also met an Airedale – a slim Coco lookalike - out for a stroll with her dad.  After the markets, we had a little time left so biked over to the Yorktown Battlefield, the site of the final major battle of the American Revolution in 1781.  Here, the British surrendered to American and French forces under the command of George Washington. This preserved site is quite large and visitors can drive (or bike if you’re game) between easily discernible battle lines. 

Two days was not enough of course, but the Motleys did their historical best…

From: Norfolk, VA  Lat/Long: 36 51N  76 18W  Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1030

To: Yorktown, VA  Lat/Long: 37 14N  76 30W Date/Time: 9/9/09: 1730
Time Taken: 60nm (7hrs)  Distance (this year): 2753nm (514hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 3604nm  (693hrs)   Fastest Speed: 4-5kts**
Weather: Some cloudiness & rain although clearing; strong NE on Chesapeake Bay motoring against tide and wind slowed us down
(** Mostly motoring with a little sail at times)

Cabin Fever

We saw tugs a plenty

It’s been raining solid for two days now. Bruce looks more like a kiddie’s inflatable wading pool.  Everything is grey and cold – a new sensation we’re not entirely prepared for.  The Miserable Motleys also still have the flu. 

Making new friends

We stayed on in Portsmouth after BW’s departure, with some expectation for the Labor Day weekend, and especially the Rendezvous, Mile Marker Zero festivities, where we understood hundreds of boats came in to celebrate.  Well, not this year.  It was, as the Cap’n said, an under-extravaganza.  So too was the Weekend Sidewalk Sale.  So here we sit, couped up with runny noses, pathetically coughing and sneezing!

We just wanted to share that with you - just in case you thought that life on board was always a bed of roses!!

Nautical Norfolk

Don't look now but it's heading straight for us...

At Norfolk, we threw out the hook and waited.  Waited for the weather to clear, waited for BW to catch his flight home, waited to get over BW’s flu legacy and waited for something entertaining…anything at all really. 

Portsmouth dates back to 1716 and has a more olde worlde feel than Norfolk, reminiscent of its English heritage.  The huge port complex now seems at odds with the charming old district and it’s hard to image that these great grey beasts and others have grown from an industry started by Portsmouth shipbuilders. 

USS Wisconsin

Norfolk and its sister city Portsmouth, offer Naval enthusiasts lots to do.  The Cap’n threw himself to the task, doing tours, taking rides and viewing museums, ports and battleships.  When done with the Navy, he turned to the Army and spent a day with General MacArthur.  Not with him as such, although he is buried on the site.  GS & BW skipped all that for the Mall and a movie, then found a bookshop with an inbuilt Starbucks…   

Oh look, the tide's come in

This is how we passed our days.  Sightseeing a little, shopping a little and trying to find a decent coffee or restaurant.  Finally found one in Portsmouth, Lobscouser.  Also found a supermarket for essentials close to the dingy wharf. Just as well, our bodies were starting to protest the appalling menus on offer (pulled pork is just hideous!).  Most weekends there was something going on in Town Park or The Landings; bands playing and people milling.  Of course, if all else failed we could get internet at Hooters.  Don’t ask!  GS declared Hooters a blonde joke in the making. 

Chrysler Museum of Art

GS, in a moment of triumph even managed to get the Cap’n to the Chrysler Museum of Art.  The Chrysler is renown for its superb collection of glass, including a huge Tiffany collection. You could not help but be fascinated by it. 

Fascinating History Lessons

They also had some really interesting if not macabre, pre-Columbian pieces, particularly pottery that had GS quite enthused.  Perhaps, just a little kiln on WJ3 wouldn’t hurt?  We could tie it on a raft behind Bruce.  Quite an odd little procession & not suitably nautical, me thinks.  Anyway, Cap’n Crafty declared himself full bottle on art galleries and except perhaps for the Louvre, he had seen enuff…for a lifetime!  Back to Hooters then….