St Lucia: Party Bananas

Bananas Anyone?: 25-26 Aug 08

Marigot Bay St Lucia

Again we motored out early in the calm of the morning through a barrage of fishing traps to the end of the island and past the rather scenic Diamond Rock, said to have once been dressed as a galleon by the creative Brits to keep Napoleon’s fleet at bay. (Interestingly, Empress Josephine grew up in Martinique.) Ever ready to take what comes, we made it half way across the channel before the winds died plunging us into a boiling mess.

Whatever happened to those reliable, steady trade winds??? We battled on for a while in a lumpy, unpleasant cross-swell & current…up on a crest (one two) roll to the left (three four) roll to the right (five six) up on a crest (seven eight)…smaaaash! ssshhuuudder… then repeat at least a 10,000 times more…..This was with the motor going too! Our destination had been to Soufriere & a marine park at the base of the Pitons; both on the southern end of St Lucia. Down to our last ¼ tank of fuel, Cap’n Migraine demanded sails up. No sooner up than down they came again. And into Marigot Bay we headed – much closer, a big marina (with fuel facilities) and protection from these beastly southerlies.

Plans for Dangar?

We were warmly greeted by a toothless rasta in a half-inflated dingy. “Wonta moorin’, mon? Bes in deh bay; cleeen water, jus off deh beach.”   Mmmm, dubious... This mooring on offer, special price to us of $25US, was a simple fender hanging way too close to the narrow channel and a large green buoy.   “Where you from?  Ostrailya?   I bin der.   Kins Cross, Russcutter Bay. Niiiiice place.” Yackity yackity yak! We chose another more secure mooring (no hard feelin’s, mon) and fortunately before money changed hands, the mooring mafia arrived. $15 a night and a receipt! We still checked with the marina office…..

Whilst we were in vulnerable “arrival shock”, the banana boys arrived too - standing on old surfboards and paddling with a single oar. Their cargo of over-ripe bananas and a few mangos or limes was peddled off at rather inflated prices, but….you know, in the heat of the moment! So it was we acquired a huge bunch of bananas, a couple of over-ripe mangos and a few laughs. Later, another came by wanting to trade limes for rice and tinned fish (shades of New Guinea?). Finally a chance to get rid of some of Cap’n Speedo’s dreaded corned beef supplies…yes!!

Faithful swimming Scooby Doo

That night, after the previous night's tuna disaster, the crew decided to eat out. Off we went, still groggy from the sail, paddling in Bruce (no motor on yet) to a recommended restaurant, the Rainforest Hideaway, one of a number that line the mangroves within the inner bay. Well it turned out to be exclusive, full of exclusive people from the exclusive resorts that also lined the exclusive bay…too bad, fish out of water & all that! Too late to change, so in we grotty ozzie yotties went. The food was divine; the best we’d eaten since leaving home (other than my cooking, that is!!) and the service very attentive. And luckily we could pay with credit card (thank heavens for plastic!).

Greeting new arrivals

We decided to stay a second night, re-fuel, re-water, re-provision and just plain re-lax, so checked in with customs to legalise our stay. Marigot Bay is certainly picturesque and we couldn’t have picked a better hide-away for our lay-over. After a busy day restocking (& turning down offers of more bananas) we took sundowners at a local bar (Mygo’s) and then went for hamburgers to the marina’s Hurricane Hole café. Yes, another resort surrounded by motor yachts that even Packers’ would approve of! One was 4 storeys above the water (& bigger than our house). Of course, the occupants weren’t on board; they’d all taken rooms at the resort….as you do! (I've included a few links to web sites so that you can compare my plain-jane photos with those tempting marketing ones!!)


From:  Anse Mitan, Martinique  Lat/Long: 14 34N  61 03W  Date/Time: 25/8/08: 0830

To:  Marigot Bay, St Lucia  Lat/Long: 13 58N  61 02W  Date/Time: 25/8/08: 1715
Time Taken: 40nm (9hrs)  Distance (this year): 548nm (118hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 548nm  (118hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.5kts **
Weather: Winds died to SW 1-2kts; 2-4ft cross swell setting SE vs NE;
(**Motored most of the way 5.3-5.5kts; sailing backwards a distinct possibility!)