Down the Queasy Pole

Back to Les Saintes: 22 Aug 08 

Tempting Grenadines - Tobago Cays

In the interests of not testing those weather gods further, we plotted a quick slide down the islands to the relative safety of The Grenadines. It was nearly September....   Should something blow up (not wanting to say that “H” word) then we could make a quick dash to Trinidad and real safety below the 11^th parallel. Our plan was to day hop and spend nights resting at anchor rather than sailing in one long, exhausting passage. Once we reached Bequia, we could “put out the drogue” and drift through the Grenadines, said to be the quintessential tropical paradise. We looked forward to that!

Not the big red ferry but big enough

We left our Point-a-Pitre harbour-front mooring early to fill our water tanks at the marina (and test the patience of the Capitainerie) before leaving for destination Portsmouth, at the top end of Dominica (said dom in knee ka). Inside, Point-a-Pitre harbour was a breathless mill pond; outside a nightmare!! Aside from the big red ferry that decided to tailgate & then when he finally sped by, drown us in his wake, the swell was a bullish 6-8ft behind a very fresh ENE at 15-20kts, giving us a rollercoaster ride (broad reach) – in all, a big test first test for Bert! 

Not looking too good?  Sea sick uglies...

The Galley Slave finally begged for mercy, so at the Iles de Saintes we anchored off Ilet a Cabrit under Fort Josephine to shelter from the strong winds. Cap’n Speedo and Boy Wonder sped off in Bruce to find dingy fuel. This involved scraping together our last euros, hiring a scooter, walking up & down a bush track and finally jerry-jugging 5 gallons in the heat. One up side for BW was meeting a fellow surfer and finally getting to ride a few “waves” local-style! 

Swimming off Ilet a Cabrit

While the boys were away, GS had hoped for a few restful hours… The elements had other plans and the winds changed direction completely, blowing WJ3 almost onto a little beach & into 8 ft of water, amidst a group of less than amused swimmers. Now, WJ3 draws 6ft; two options - pack my bags & catch the next plane out or invite the nervous swimmers on board for tea? Instead, much to the amusement of our nearby boat-afloat neighbours,  GS winched up some anchor line; snorkeled on the anchor to check its holding was ok; admired the garden eels below the boat; watched the depth sounder with every swing and wondered if the wine was cold enough, yet! Of course by the time the expeditionary forces arrived back, the winds had changed again…we were now floating in deeper waters. But I did need a strong tonic for my nerves that night. 

Natural Fort Defences

Just for the history buffs. The sight of the biggest naval battle between the French & English (on the Caribbean) is just off these small islands. The Saintes Harbour was the anchorage for (French) Admiral de Grasse’s entire fleet. However, in 1782, Admiral Rodney defeated the French marking the beginnings of British maritime supremacy. Forts Josephine and Napoleon were built later in the 1850’-60’s to be impregnable outposts. Fort Josephine became a hospital & quarantine station in use until 1902. Now it is a crumbling ruin. Funny how the world turns?

From:  Pointe-a-Pitre  Lat/Long: 16 14N  61 32W  Date/Time: 22/8/08: 0800

To:Ilet a Cabrit, Les Saintes Lat/Long: 15 52N 61 35W Date/Time: 22/8/08: 1230
Time Taken: 24nm (4.5hrs) Distance (this year): 421nm (91.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 421nm  (91.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 6.7kt **
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds SW 15-20kts; 6-8ft swell;
(**Bert’s first solo; wave surfing too!)