Dominica: Tall is her body

Giving Dominica the Brush: 23 Aug 08

Dominica from WJ3

The next morning the winds remained decidedly unchanged. In fact, our floating neighbours on The Good Ship Lollypop had dragged at anchor. Oh, I was very smug! We motored out into a 10-12ft swell with winds gusting to 25kts and flew down the 20 miles to Dominica. Mind you, we were the only yacht on the water! Once in the lee of the island we met calmer waters and rain squalls, but by sailing in close we had a chance to see really mountainous countryside covered in thick, mysterious jungle. We glided silently by.

Dark clouds hung low over all seven volcanoes and a storm raged spectacularly over Mt Diable. Dominica has few natural harbours along its steep western coast and is not as well frequented by yachties as other islands. Its reputation is in its inland tourism – hiking to boiling lakes, waterfalls, sulphur springs, mysterious rivers etc. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore, and feared the rain meant slippery slopes, leeches and broken legs (Nepal's HHHH all over again!) so motored on down into Roseau Bay.

Roseau

We had read a great deal about boat boys and anticipated our baptism in Dominica with interest. One advantage of the low season is that everything, including boat boy service, is low key. We finally met up with Francis, who instantly dispelled all fears (as good Francis’ do, Dad!) and guided us to a mooring, where he left us in peace. We felt safer on a mooring here. The seas are deep (70ft at 50m from the shore) and the swell persistent. We spent the night listening to more rain, roosters, dogs, loud reggae and some 50’s tunes that even we didn’t remember.

 

From:Ilet a Cabrit, Les Saintes Lat/Long:15 52N  61 35W Date/Time:23/8/08: 0800

To:  Roseau, Dominica  Lat/Long: 15 18N  61 24W  Date/Time: 23/8/08: 1700
Time Taken: 37nm (9hrs)  Distance (this year): 458nm (100.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 458nm  (100.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Que?? **
Weather: Really fresh Trade Winds ENE gusting 25kts; 10-12ft swell;
(**Nobody noticed - too busy hanging on!)