Free Spirits

Rolls for Breakfast: 4 Sep 08

Walter on Free Spirit

We woke to a beautiful morning, blue skies and calm-ish waters; and the sound of a lone motorboat! Walter on Free Spirit had warm bread rolls on offer – who could say no? We chatted for a while and like Banana Boy Nelson, he too had sampled the delights of Kens Cross, mon! Seems many serve on container ships to save enough to buy a boat (well, build actually) and start a business. Needless to say, we also purchased a couple of t-shirts….who would believe you? Out in the middle of the Caribbean Seas on a lonely deserted island? We thought about asking Walter if he took Visa, just for a lark!

Bruce making his own friends..

Business conducted, we took Bruce to the edge of the reef again and tied up to a diving buoy on the inside of Horseshoe Reef. At first I hesitated, but when Cap’n Snorkel stood up on a sandy bank, that was enough enticement to get wet! The water was soooo clear, it wasn’t especially deep and colourful fish were plentiful – in all sizes. It was like swimming in a huge aquarium. I did see a couple of medium-sized rays, although our trusty Cap’n had seen a leopard ray the day before, and a nurse shark!!! Rather than tempt Bruce’s patience yet again, the Cap’n towed me home to WJ3. I kept thinking about trolling and whether I might be considered a bit of a tasty dish dangling off the back of Bruce like that..… Deh sure make dem parrut fis BiiiiiiG out here, mon!! 

Isn't the water clear?

WJ3 headed back to Bequia and for once, the wind stayed to our advantage. We made excellent time and Bert performed like a star, even under pressure. One of those big inter-island ferries came charging over to take a closer look… Now where did we put that life-raft? And can I pack the camera/computer/cooking book/clean undies in time? The Captain gave us a hearty wave from his bridge window and several of the passengers also waved. The Motleys, now somewhat weak & pasty, waved back. Ho, ho…what a laugh!

Sailing by Tobago Cays

Just as we recovered, the Cap’n spied shoaling waters up ahead. Boy Wonder grabbed the wheel whilst the Cap’n dashed below to check the charts…. “Looks like big fish to me,” said GS (no glasses on obviously). “Its dolphins,” said BW, “on the hunt.” There must have been 100 or more dolphins in a huge pod, leaping through the water, not the least bit interested in us. One of nature’s true wonders (and too quick to photograph)!

Back to Bequia, back to Tony Gibbons Beach and back to Whistling Willy in No Complain rowing through the sea of switches.fr in his little skiff, hoping to sell hand-carved creations. Almost feels like home…

From:  Mayreau, Tobago Cays  Lat/Long: 12 38N  61 24W  Date/Time: 4/9/08: 1130

To:  Bequia, Grenadines  Lat/Long: 13 00N  61 15W  Date/Time: 4/9/08: 1600
Time Taken: 34nm (4.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 676nm (142.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 676nm  (142.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7kts**
Weather: Winds SE 10-12kts; 2-4ft swell; strong current 1-1.5kts pushing us westwards; fine day but cloudy; nice beam  reach.
(**Held for 2 seconds! And the award goes to the Galley Slave)   

A Road too well Travelled

Tobago Cays

Baradal Island

Mid-morning, the Cap’n visited a nearby village shop only to find they didn’t stock coke, much less tonic; in fact nothing much at all and weren’t open until 3.30pm anyway (after lunch, mon). So we took advantage of clearing skies to motor back out to the Cays. Sunshine can really make a difference! Small white beaches fringed with coconut palms stood out in clear turquoise waters. Only two cruisers remained on moorings, braving the sloppy southerly still coming in. We sought refuge in the lee of Petit Bateau and although a strong current pushed through the channel, we felt protected – and alone – very alone! Nice!

Narrow channel between islands

Petit Bateau suffers the scars of commercialism – strands of wire stretched between coconut palms (to display t-shirts); tables & benches for beach barbeques; a little litter and quite a few discarded conch shells. Moorings and ropes to tie vendor boats to coconut trees bobbed about, quietly empty and very indicative of the lowest of low season’s inactivity. These blights aside, the area is remarkably well managed to ensure huge numbers of visitors (daily) do not impinge too much on the pristine (and fragile) beauty of these very small Cays. Having said that, I believe we were extremely fortunate to have been visiting in low season, in bad weather…..

An Aussie in Tabago Cays

Armed with only a good guess, we took Bruce to try and find the passage through the reef to Petit Tabac. With breaking waves over the edge of the reef, a strong ocean swell and coral heads just popping up everywhere…we abandoned our attempts at being Robinson Caruso and headed to Jamesby’s secluded little beach. Poor Bruce was picked up in the waves and crash landed, not before biting me for my trouble. Again, we turned around to head for the relative safety of Petit Bateau and WJ3. Snorkeling could wait until morning....

Only in the Magazines...

Glamorous Glossies: 3 Sep 08

Thankfully, our trip south was uneventful - this is after all the land of coral reefs and hidden rocks. Our advice was to only navigate in good light…of course, the day was overcast…and a stiff southerly was blowing up. Good start? 

Petit Tabac over Horseshoe Reef

The Grenadines are islands within an island chain. Mostly all closely set; meaning short trips – great said GS! Some are inhabited; others are not. Some are exclusive (Mustique) and others are the homes of simple fishing folk. All, though not so lushly vegetated as St Vincent, have clear turquoise waters and white sandy beaches fringed by coconut palms. Probably most advertising glossies are taken in these parts; on the one day a year when the sky is quite blue & cloudless and the seas calm. 

Beach at Petit Bateau

We motored past Canouan, listening to prickly chat on the radio; the needs of rich resort owners versus locals; one of the down sides of a country dependent on tourism. Once past Glossy Head, (soon to be Glossy Flat - it’s being levelled for a runway extension?? A sign of the times, sigh...) we could see Tobago Cays in the distance, Petit Tabac and its coconut palms shimmering like a mirage.

Our course took us nearly to Mayreau, where we turned expectantly out to the Cays. The Tobago Cays are a group of 5 (really small) islands surrounded by an extensive system of coral reefs; the largest is called Horseshoe Reef (for obvious reasons) and one further out, World’s End. Keeping a close eye on the GPS/charts, the Cap’n carefully navigated our way into a small channel between the largest islands, then out into a sea..….of moorings! You can see them in the large photo above! All of which were exposed to an increasing southerly buster! All 5 or 6 mooring occupants looked as if they were going to have a “swell” night of it. No thanks! We turned back for a small anchorage we spotted on Mayreau, all the while wondering what the fuss was about! Was that it? Had the advertising glossies been over-generous?

Salt Whistle Bay Mayreau

Salt Whistle Bay is a pristine, little bay to the north side of Mayreau, though not a well kept secret. It has the “ruins” of a once enticing, low-key resort and is now home to a few boat boys trying hard to sell barbeques & in-season fruit to self-sufficient charterers. Oh yes, the small bay was crammed…I would hate to see it in peak season! We also suspected skulduggery of sorts… a bareboater was asked to move anchorage, allowing a cat of bloaters (what else?) access to the prime spot in the bay…..Very naughty indeed, if true!

Luckily we managed to snaffle a spot; only because it was near the reef, not the beach, where we settled in for the night to hide away from increasingly strong winds.

From:  Bequia, Grenadines  Lat/Long: 13 00N  61 15W  Date/Time: 2/9/08: 1020

To:  Mayreau, Tobago Cays  Lat/Long: 12 38N  61 24W  Date/Time: 2/9/08: 1645
Time Taken: 34nm (6.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 642nm (137.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 642nm  (137.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Motoring**
Weather: Winds SSE 10-12kts; 2-4ft swell; strong current 1-1.5kts pushing us westwards; overcast.
(**Bert’s really feeling neglected now!)   

Gunkholing the Grenadines

Busy Birdies

“Bequia sweet sweet” is said to be the call of a little local bird here in Bequia. He’s got it right really, as this small island is a very pretty start to the Grenadines. (Well, technically St Vincent’s is the start of SVG, but who’s checking facts here?) Anyway, our anchorage off Tony Gibbons Beach is just beautiful and Port Elizabeth is like stepping back in time. It reminds me in some ways of an easy-going New Guinea in the 70’s – basic, yet with a few surprises, like a wonderful bookstore! The town has most essentials, provides a large selection of dingy docks (which is welcoming sign to yotties) and we’ve managed to locate other nuts and bolts like internet and a good bar or two. We also tasted our first decent curries (with parathas) at the Gingerbread Restaurant, made with really nice curry pastes (rather than that awful job-lot curry powder that’s used locally with wild abandon!).

Canvas beach house; really steep road

Bequia is a regular overnight stop for many charter floaters. Tony Gibbons is their anchorage of choice and it was here that we finally worked out that switch.fr was not following us down-island; it was a fleet of charter cats, stretching from BVI to Bequia and beyond! At least 8 large cats sail into this rapidly filling bay every evening around dusk. All of course, are filled with sweet young things (even so, we still can’t manage off-load BW) and piloted by rather cavalier skippers, who clearly left home still knowing everything…. These cats are powered at speed into the best spots (even if you happen to be in it already), anchors are cast without much thought for surrounding craft and like magnets, they have a need to be close together, regardless! We are constantly in awe.

Admiralty Bay sunset

Even the Cap’n was reduced to having words one night! And we also saw the look of horror on a near neighbour’s face when he arrived back from a shopping trip to see a huge cat parked up his clacker! At least they are generally gone by early morning!

In light of the good weather (and our closeness to Grenada), Cap’n Spring-loaded decided to have WJ3’s unfinished canvas work seen to. We placed our order with Withfield Sails, so while work was underway, the motley crew set off to explore nearby Mayreau and Tobago Cays.

Going like Wildfire....

And Finally, Sweet Bequia: 27 Aug 08

The Madonna's

Our early morning cruise took us south past The Pitons, which we promptly christened “the Madonna’s”.   Not due to our religious education in St Martin you understand but after the songstress with the pointy black brassiere. Those of you old enough may remember her and get the joke! The whole area of The Pitons is a marine reserve and it looked well cared for, despite the whole island being ringed, even well out to sea, by a floating field of old coconuts (forgivable) and soft drink bottles (definitely not forgivable, Mr Coca Cola).

Lone Guide

Our way out of St Lucia was guided for us by a lone, battle scarred dolphin. He stayed long enough in the calm waters for me to get a nice picture (that’s Big Bertha, our huuuuge but reliable anchor - oh so picture-worthy!).

St Vincent coastline

In dead calm, we motored past St Vincent, with its wild, rugged landscape and black sandy beaches fringed by coconut palms. Hardly surprisingly, Wallilabou Bay was used as one of the sets for “Pirates of the Caribbean”. Someone, inspired perhaps by these possibilities, had in June, attacked & robbed a cruising/charter yacht on the north of the island. Nasty business. Interestingly, the island’s only obvious, well used anchorage was a protected marina. Such a shame for local business. Especially when so much of the Caribbean relies on tourism for income. 

Rain over St Vincent

Off St Vincent we hit increasingly heavy rain squalls. It was during one of these unpleasant times that finally….the zzziiiiiing of the rod! We had hooked something big!! Before we could even release the rod from its holder, the game was all over! The line had run off the reel… Say no more! 

The Cap’n said it was the first time he had heard the Galley Slave swear…true dinks!! Well, we had been trawling that lure over 5 long days! So somewhere in the sapphire blue waters of the Caribbean is a fish with a big headache, a mouthful of plastic bait and trailing 300 feet of hi-vis green, nylon line.

Then.  The heavens opened up.  BW shares this photo from the comfort of down below.  Why keep a dog and bark as they say....

Rain Rain Go Away

We arrived in Bequia at 6pm in fading light, anchoring off Tony Gibbons Beach in water so clear we could see the bottom (20ft down) even then. For the first time, Cap’n Spring-loaded could easily see the anchor and chain. For the first time, he did not have to dive down to check on it! We could, we hoped, finally begin cruising for pleasure….

From:  Marigot Bay, St Lucia  Lat/Long: 13 58N  61 02W  Date/Time: 27/8/08: 0620

To:  Bequia, Grenadines  Lat/Long: 13 00N  61 15W  Date/Time: 27/8/08: 1730
Time Taken: 60nm (13hrs)  Distance (this year): 608nm (131hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 608nm  (131hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.3kts motoring
Weather: Winds calm; small swell hardly noticeable; rain squalls

Anyone paying attention to my navigation will notice that a. we have been dropping degrees like wildfire (now at 13N…the safety hurricane free limit is now 11 – so not too far to go!) and b. that we are riding in a west sweeping arc as we head towards the equator and the coast of South America.  Following in the footsteps of Columbus in the 1500’s.

St Lucia: Party Bananas

Bananas Anyone?: 25-26 Aug 08

Marigot Bay St Lucia

Again we motored out early in the calm of the morning through a barrage of fishing traps to the end of the island and past the rather scenic Diamond Rock, said to have once been dressed as a galleon by the creative Brits to keep Napoleon’s fleet at bay. (Interestingly, Empress Josephine grew up in Martinique.) Ever ready to take what comes, we made it half way across the channel before the winds died plunging us into a boiling mess.

Whatever happened to those reliable, steady trade winds??? We battled on for a while in a lumpy, unpleasant cross-swell & current…up on a crest (one two) roll to the left (three four) roll to the right (five six) up on a crest (seven eight)…smaaaash! ssshhuuudder… then repeat at least a 10,000 times more…..This was with the motor going too! Our destination had been to Soufriere & a marine park at the base of the Pitons; both on the southern end of St Lucia. Down to our last ¼ tank of fuel, Cap’n Migraine demanded sails up. No sooner up than down they came again. And into Marigot Bay we headed – much closer, a big marina (with fuel facilities) and protection from these beastly southerlies.

Plans for Dangar?

We were warmly greeted by a toothless rasta in a half-inflated dingy. “Wonta moorin’, mon? Bes in deh bay; cleeen water, jus off deh beach.”   Mmmm, dubious... This mooring on offer, special price to us of $25US, was a simple fender hanging way too close to the narrow channel and a large green buoy.   “Where you from?  Ostrailya?   I bin der.   Kins Cross, Russcutter Bay. Niiiiice place.” Yackity yackity yak! We chose another more secure mooring (no hard feelin’s, mon) and fortunately before money changed hands, the mooring mafia arrived. $15 a night and a receipt! We still checked with the marina office…..

Whilst we were in vulnerable “arrival shock”, the banana boys arrived too - standing on old surfboards and paddling with a single oar. Their cargo of over-ripe bananas and a few mangos or limes was peddled off at rather inflated prices, but….you know, in the heat of the moment! So it was we acquired a huge bunch of bananas, a couple of over-ripe mangos and a few laughs. Later, another came by wanting to trade limes for rice and tinned fish (shades of New Guinea?). Finally a chance to get rid of some of Cap’n Speedo’s dreaded corned beef supplies…yes!!

Faithful swimming Scooby Doo

That night, after the previous night's tuna disaster, the crew decided to eat out. Off we went, still groggy from the sail, paddling in Bruce (no motor on yet) to a recommended restaurant, the Rainforest Hideaway, one of a number that line the mangroves within the inner bay. Well it turned out to be exclusive, full of exclusive people from the exclusive resorts that also lined the exclusive bay…too bad, fish out of water & all that! Too late to change, so in we grotty ozzie yotties went. The food was divine; the best we’d eaten since leaving home (other than my cooking, that is!!) and the service very attentive. And luckily we could pay with credit card (thank heavens for plastic!).

Greeting new arrivals

We decided to stay a second night, re-fuel, re-water, re-provision and just plain re-lax, so checked in with customs to legalise our stay. Marigot Bay is certainly picturesque and we couldn’t have picked a better hide-away for our lay-over. After a busy day restocking (& turning down offers of more bananas) we took sundowners at a local bar (Mygo’s) and then went for hamburgers to the marina’s Hurricane Hole café. Yes, another resort surrounded by motor yachts that even Packers’ would approve of! One was 4 storeys above the water (& bigger than our house). Of course, the occupants weren’t on board; they’d all taken rooms at the resort….as you do! (I've included a few links to web sites so that you can compare my plain-jane photos with those tempting marketing ones!!)


From:  Anse Mitan, Martinique  Lat/Long: 14 34N  61 03W  Date/Time: 25/8/08: 0830

To:  Marigot Bay, St Lucia  Lat/Long: 13 58N  61 02W  Date/Time: 25/8/08: 1715
Time Taken: 40nm (9hrs)  Distance (this year): 548nm (118hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 548nm  (118hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.5kts **
Weather: Winds died to SW 1-2kts; 2-4ft cross swell setting SE vs NE;
(**Motored most of the way 5.3-5.5kts; sailing backwards a distinct possibility!)    

Windwards at Last

Another Day; Another Currency: 24 Aug 08

Soufriere

Despite the morning calm in Roseau, the swell was really rolling in. I had already been up well before 5am (to settle my tummy….). So, the Cap’n & I quietly dropped the mooring and motored off into glass-like waters.  Again the depth of the seas amazed us. At 500m from shore, we measured a stunning 400ft down until the depth sounder couldn’t read anymore! Dominica has some amazing dive sites but the Cap’n would have to wait - again!

Scotts Head - early morning

We rounded Scotts Head hoping for a less boisterous ride on the 26nm crossing to Martinique, which was clearly silhouetted to the south.  Our destination was Anse Mitan a small bay on the south side of Baie de Fort de France; on another very French island (& euros again). Moving on to yet another overnighter – we were beginning to get dizzy! 

Morne Platpays from Scotts Head

Our wet ride continued on out from Dominica and into a bang on the nose southerly. Sails up; sails down; motor; sails up; sails down; motor….you get the idea. Waiting to greet us off Martinique was another wild storm off Mt Pelee, a volcano that erupted in 1902, killing some 30,000 residents of St Pierre. You can easily see the remains of the lava flow – it must have been horrendous for them. We continued to sail gingerly through thunder & lightening, rain squalls and an interesting cross swell; one SE & the other NE. Curiouser and curiouser!

Anse Mitan was well protected from the southerly swells but not from a regular ferry service that plied between Fort de France (and its exclusive French label shopping) and our anchorage. Anse Mitan is very French and very resort-ish. Despite the enticement of fresh baguettes (and even a lemon tart?), we decided not to clear in (so no getting off the boat) and ate the last of our fresh rations - tuna salad. There was no requests for seconds! Of course the tuna was tinned. Still no fish on our lures but a couple of dolphins at play – our first sighting!

From:  Roseau, Dominica  Lat/Long: 15 18N  61 24W  Date/Time: 24/8/08: 0730

To: Anse Mitan, Martinique Lat/Long: 14 34N  61 03W Date/Time: 24/8/08: 1600
Time Taken: 50nm (8.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 508nm (109hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 508nm  (109hrs)   Fastest Speed: 6.9kts **
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds ESE 10-15kts; 2-4ft cross swell;
(**Hollywood on a close reach) 

Dominica: Tall is her body

Giving Dominica the Brush: 23 Aug 08

Dominica from WJ3

The next morning the winds remained decidedly unchanged. In fact, our floating neighbours on The Good Ship Lollypop had dragged at anchor. Oh, I was very smug! We motored out into a 10-12ft swell with winds gusting to 25kts and flew down the 20 miles to Dominica. Mind you, we were the only yacht on the water! Once in the lee of the island we met calmer waters and rain squalls, but by sailing in close we had a chance to see really mountainous countryside covered in thick, mysterious jungle. We glided silently by.

Dark clouds hung low over all seven volcanoes and a storm raged spectacularly over Mt Diable. Dominica has few natural harbours along its steep western coast and is not as well frequented by yachties as other islands. Its reputation is in its inland tourism – hiking to boiling lakes, waterfalls, sulphur springs, mysterious rivers etc. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore, and feared the rain meant slippery slopes, leeches and broken legs (Nepal's HHHH all over again!) so motored on down into Roseau Bay.

Roseau

We had read a great deal about boat boys and anticipated our baptism in Dominica with interest. One advantage of the low season is that everything, including boat boy service, is low key. We finally met up with Francis, who instantly dispelled all fears (as good Francis’ do, Dad!) and guided us to a mooring, where he left us in peace. We felt safer on a mooring here. The seas are deep (70ft at 50m from the shore) and the swell persistent. We spent the night listening to more rain, roosters, dogs, loud reggae and some 50’s tunes that even we didn’t remember.

 

From:Ilet a Cabrit, Les Saintes Lat/Long:15 52N  61 35W Date/Time:23/8/08: 0800

To:  Roseau, Dominica  Lat/Long: 15 18N  61 24W  Date/Time: 23/8/08: 1700
Time Taken: 37nm (9hrs)  Distance (this year): 458nm (100.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 458nm  (100.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Que?? **
Weather: Really fresh Trade Winds ENE gusting 25kts; 10-12ft swell;
(**Nobody noticed - too busy hanging on!) 

Down the Queasy Pole

Back to Les Saintes: 22 Aug 08 

Tempting Grenadines - Tobago Cays

In the interests of not testing those weather gods further, we plotted a quick slide down the islands to the relative safety of The Grenadines. It was nearly September....   Should something blow up (not wanting to say that “H” word) then we could make a quick dash to Trinidad and real safety below the 11^th parallel. Our plan was to day hop and spend nights resting at anchor rather than sailing in one long, exhausting passage. Once we reached Bequia, we could “put out the drogue” and drift through the Grenadines, said to be the quintessential tropical paradise. We looked forward to that!

Not the big red ferry but big enough

We left our Point-a-Pitre harbour-front mooring early to fill our water tanks at the marina (and test the patience of the Capitainerie) before leaving for destination Portsmouth, at the top end of Dominica (said dom in knee ka). Inside, Point-a-Pitre harbour was a breathless mill pond; outside a nightmare!! Aside from the big red ferry that decided to tailgate & then when he finally sped by, drown us in his wake, the swell was a bullish 6-8ft behind a very fresh ENE at 15-20kts, giving us a rollercoaster ride (broad reach) – in all, a big test first test for Bert! 

Not looking too good?  Sea sick uglies...

The Galley Slave finally begged for mercy, so at the Iles de Saintes we anchored off Ilet a Cabrit under Fort Josephine to shelter from the strong winds. Cap’n Speedo and Boy Wonder sped off in Bruce to find dingy fuel. This involved scraping together our last euros, hiring a scooter, walking up & down a bush track and finally jerry-jugging 5 gallons in the heat. One up side for BW was meeting a fellow surfer and finally getting to ride a few “waves” local-style! 

Swimming off Ilet a Cabrit

While the boys were away, GS had hoped for a few restful hours… The elements had other plans and the winds changed direction completely, blowing WJ3 almost onto a little beach & into 8 ft of water, amidst a group of less than amused swimmers. Now, WJ3 draws 6ft; two options - pack my bags & catch the next plane out or invite the nervous swimmers on board for tea? Instead, much to the amusement of our nearby boat-afloat neighbours,  GS winched up some anchor line; snorkeled on the anchor to check its holding was ok; admired the garden eels below the boat; watched the depth sounder with every swing and wondered if the wine was cold enough, yet! Of course by the time the expeditionary forces arrived back, the winds had changed again…we were now floating in deeper waters. But I did need a strong tonic for my nerves that night. 

Natural Fort Defences

Just for the history buffs. The sight of the biggest naval battle between the French & English (on the Caribbean) is just off these small islands. The Saintes Harbour was the anchorage for (French) Admiral de Grasse’s entire fleet. However, in 1782, Admiral Rodney defeated the French marking the beginnings of British maritime supremacy. Forts Josephine and Napoleon were built later in the 1850’-60’s to be impregnable outposts. Fort Josephine became a hospital & quarantine station in use until 1902. Now it is a crumbling ruin. Funny how the world turns?

From:  Pointe-a-Pitre  Lat/Long: 16 14N  61 32W  Date/Time: 22/8/08: 0800

To:Ilet a Cabrit, Les Saintes Lat/Long: 15 52N 61 35W Date/Time: 22/8/08: 1230
Time Taken: 24nm (4.5hrs) Distance (this year): 421nm (91.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 421nm  (91.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: 6.7kt **
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds SW 15-20kts; 6-8ft swell;
(**Bert’s first solo; wave surfing too!)