Oh James, is that really you?

Stage 3 Bahamas – Southern Exuma Cays: 2 - 6 Jul 09

Feeding hungry little fishies at Thunderball Grotto

The Exuma Cays extend 160km and over 365 cays in a long slow arc along the eastern edge of the Great Bahama Bank.  We chose to enter over Galliot Cut.  All reef cuts are notorious and if you time it badly, that is wind against tide/swell, you can be treated to sailing over treacherous currents and standing tsunami-like waves.  The locals call this a “rage”.  Going off the Banks can be worse than getting on!  Still, we held our breath, crossed our fingers & toes and timed the tide for slack water….almost.  WE WERE ON!  The Great Bahama Bank stretches for mile and miles.  Imagine horizon to horizon of 8 to 12 ft clear, turquoise waters over a sandy bottom.  Is that a moving rock or is it a stingray?

Big Galliot Cut - Atlantic Side.  Are we nervous - yes!

Our first anchorage was off Big Galliot Cay in a strong surge that stopped even us from swimming.  We took the opportunity to wash the strongly smelling fishing net out.  Yes, GS had caught yet another barracuda – and it smelt dreadful!  Our next stop was Black Point Settlement; not much to report although the Cap’n managed to deplete their stock of hose clips!  In one large purchase, he bought two. 

 

GPS Pig descendents?

Staniel Cay is where my favourite James Bond, Sean Connery, filmed “Thunderball”.  Of course we had to snorkel in the underwater grotto where he once swam.  Now, it’s full of greedy little fish and noisy little kids on holidays…  Still, it is a spectacular swim in a hefty current with plenty of reef life.  The well lit cavern was an amazing site (now, where is that underwater camera??).  Nearby Big Majors Cay supports a colony of GPS pigs.  No doubt descendants from Barbadian cousins who worked sailing ships (& were rather less well fed!), these happy porkers swam for a crust too…  The nearby marina had a regular Sunday night fish & pork bbq dinner.  Gross – hope the kiddies didn’t make the connection???

Catching up on the goss

WJ3 was parked in an excellent anchorage and we made full use of nearby Staniel Cay Yacht Club; a home away from home for big powerboats and their owners.  Golf and tennis was telecast live in the Marina bar, lunch was served for chatty wives and newly-weds, whilst reclusive internet junkies (us) kept to the shadows.  The Motleys did take a leisurely walk around town (that took 5 mins); found the one grocery store (no Cuban cigars left in stock); and snorkelled a sunken plane.  We also helped celebrate 4^th July; Cap’n makin' music on his trusty air-horn, following a stunning display of fireworks.  Other than that, we watched friendly reef sharks nose around the marina shallows waiting for their share of fish & pork leftovers…as you do!

From: George Town, Exumas  Lat/Long: 23 31N  74 45  Date/Time: 2/7/09: 0955

To: Staniel Cay, Exumas  Lat/Long: 24 11N  76 27W  Date/Time: 4/7/09: 1215
Time Taken: 54nm (12.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 1376nm (308.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 2325nm  (476.5hrs)   Fastest Speed: Not noted**
Weather: Winds SE 10-12kts; Seas 1-2ft; Swell generally SE
(**Motoring & sailing; Banks waters have a clearly visible bottom with an average 12ft depth – making for nerve-wracking motoring or sailing)