Keeping Good Company

Meeting Myrtle & Friends: 28 Apr 09

Laying Eggs & A Ranger

Surprisingly, Cap’n Crewel (yes, GS is missing her sewing!) has allowed some educational entertainments.  Probably giving time for the paint to dry…  In a social whirlwind, we’ve taken the bus to Long Circular Mall and its big supermarket with a ready stock of real (fresh) vegies, attended a “pot luck” dinner and walked 5 hundred miles in the heat to have real coffee in an air-conditioned café.  “Good exercise”, said the Cap’n.  At least we haven’t met the local police force yet.

She feels like suede

We have met a few arrzzies though.  Most have been and gone except for one who has been living here since 2002.  In a boat.  On the hard.  Up that ladder!  I’m stir crazy after 4 weeks.  I want to build a compost heap (under WJ3), put in a clothes hoist, install recycle bins and suggest solar hot water showers to the Yard Supervisor.  I’m also getting to know the local cat population….love me, love my spam.  Anything for a meow and muff!

Measuring & Tagging

Insisting on widening our social circle beyond cats, the Cap’n signed off on a Turtle Tour.  Yes, it’s nesting time and yes, it’s even better than sitting in front of high definition plasma.  Richard Attenborough, eat your heart out!  Organised by local tour guide, Jessie James, of Members Only Taxis, we travelled from Chaguaramas up hill and down dale to avoid sticky peak hour traffic, to Matura Beach, stopping briefly for a Trini-Chinese dinner on the way.  It doesn’t matter what you eat really, everything seems to be deep fried, served in huge platefuls and doused in fiery pepper sauce.  Mmmmmm!

Ms Turtle, a large leatherback matron, made an appearance out of the crashing waves and up to a nice sandy spot.  We stumbled around in the dark with our Guide and tried not to put her off.  Once settled, she expertly dug a nest with her big back flippers then filled it with golf-ball sized eggs. 

Eggs in a Nest

When she lays eggs, she goes into a “trance” (so did GS many years ago, but also said some very rude words at the time!) so that we are able to put on our torches and take photos.  We had to be careful however, not to scare other mamas heading up onto the beach.  Guides have counted 200 to 250 per night over the 4km of beach this season so far – an excellent result for an unfunded program run by dedicated volunteer guides. 

Anyone wanting to adopt a turtle can find details through Nature Seekers.  It’s quite an experience.

Dat Good Ting Too

Losa wurk: 27 Apr 09

Work continues. WJ3’s conversion to QE2 is almost complete. The Cap’n is staring longingly out to sea each day; the Galley Slave is busy stocking up on travel medications…. 

Oh, look how the grass is growing under our boat!

For those interested, we’ve had some heavy duty works undertaken whilst on the hard here at Power Boats. In no particular order (you’ve heard of Trini time?? Same ting, mon!), himself has had davits installed to raise Bruce off the water & out of harms way more easily at night. We were using the halyard, but it only needed a sneaky breeze to have poor Bruce fluttering about the mast like a pennant. Then there’s the new autopilot. I wish he was as attractive as James Bond (any one of them really), but alas, it’s a growing stash of dials and gadgets. Expensive dials and gadgets! I’m hoping for a new wifi antenna too. And then folks, we can set ourselves up as command post central for the Eastern Caribbean’s swine fever control unit.

A little self-help goes a long way.  Mechanic at Work

Seriously though, we’ve also had our batteries replaced and new sun curtains for the bimini & a smaller awning for the forward deck sewn up – beats closing hatches when it rains! WJ3’s had her bottom polished like glass and even Bruce was given a good scrub. Missing aircon covers have been replaced, the stove has been serviced and last but not least, a new inner forestay adds more toe-breakers on deck.   A new matching stay sail is in the making as I speak.

Yes, new.    I’m not sure what’s come over our Cap’n.   Mind you, he monitors the boaters net (VHF channel 68) like a garage-sale groupie each morning at 8am for freebies and trades. Our store room is suffering slow junktivitus creep.   Make haste if you want to visit, whilst there’s still room.

Tip Sea in Trini Dad

Dis Pain: 19 Apr 09

View of a hurricane from above

Not wishing to invoke foul weather conditions, I found this little local rhyme in one of our guide books (Les Weatheritt – and yes, that’s his real name!).   The % given is the long range hurricane frequency.  Officially, the season starts 1^st June and ends 30^th November each year.

 

June (5%) too soon;

July (9%) stand by;

August (29%) come she must;

September (36%) remember

October (19%) all over

This rhyme leaves out late season hurricanes; November (3%) and occasionally December. That said, these were the months we sailed down island last year. The biggest threat (a close call) came from Hurricane Omar, which came through our sailing area just after we had left Trinidad in October. On our trip down island, we usually had great weather, although generally the south-easterlies had kicked in, giving us “nose” conditions for a lot of our passages south. We have our fingers crossed for the same conditions this year, to have the wind behind us and trust we time our cruise up the ICW to be well north (35N is the limit) before needing to stand by.

As time ticks away in the boatyard here in Trinidad, so too is the time we have to make the Bahamas. We are not too concerned yet however, as May is given as the best time for making north as seasonal winds start to come around to the east/south east giving us a comfortable passage.

I just wonder who I am trying to convince...

Yes, it's truth on my T-shirt

Cap'n Slavedriver insists...

Welcome Dear Travellers: 19 Apr 09

We thought we should put up some Visitors Notes for those who wish to share our adventures…

Life on board is relatively simple. We don’t dress for dinner (well, not every night!) so comfortable & lightweight cotton tropical wear is the key. Shorts & T’s/tank tops and bathers & a sarong are about all you’ll need. Bring runners for an occasional walk to town and more modest clothing (long shorts & a T is fine). You could include something dressier for restaurant visits. The Cap’n swears by trekking pants – the ones with zippered shorts – for mozzie protection. Dresses aren’t really all that suitable when travelling about in a dingy and neither are white clothes. A warm jacket (fleece) and/or a spray jacket make sense if it rains or we have foul weather underway. Dress in layers and think about laundry! Washing takes the form of an occasional (and more often than not expensive) laundromat. If not, then our multipurpose bucket is useful! Iron – what iron? We have sheets but you may like to bring a couple of towels for the beach and shower. (Ed. Note 2014: Thanks to the KIP's we now have lots of towels.)

As to shoes, the Cap’n is serious! You will need a pair of white soled deck shoes – Volleys are fine or Bias sell Burke deck sandals with covered toes that are really comfy & non-slip for about $70. Otherwise, crocs/thongs are great knockabouts (but lack traction in the wet). Don’t forget to bring decent walking shoes…we have no car!

BW, the "other" car & a folding bicycle beats swimming/walking 

All of this should be packed into a duffel bag or something that folds down flat. We don’t have room on board to store suitcases of any size. Pack lightly – we will rarely be away from civilisation for any length of time. Also, locker space is sparse. The guest quarters run to a double bed with ensuite and a small hanging locker + 3 clothes lockers. Note that the guest bed and loo doubles as the only useable berth whilst underway, so you may have to vacate during shifts (o'nite passages). I prefer to sleep in one of the chairs, dubbed the “chuck chair”. No explanations necessary.

You should bring a hat (a broad brimmed hat; the sun is fierce), sunnies (polaroids), non-greasy sunscreen (no oils), insect repellent and chapsticks etc aside from any regular medications & sea-sickness pills…the GS refuses to share her stash with anyone! A small soft bag of toiletries is useful. Bring a pack of sandwich sized zip-lock bags to store things in to stop them rolling about or getting wet.

You might also like to bring your ipod, binoculars (for bird watching, ho ho!), dvd’s, camera/video, and maybe some reading material. Internet cafes are best if you want to check emails but by all means bring a laptop/tablet if you want. Some marinas do have wi-fi. Don’t forget to include an adaptor for US or European plugs (Officeworks has them); and remember US works on 110v so you may need a transformer too.  Europe is 22-240v.

Cruising Timetable. Given our reliance on weather & sailing times, we must ask you to meet us. We will let you know where we are and then you will need to fly in, bus, taxi or train to a convenient location. You may well have to wait for us, so be prepared to find some accommodation if necessary.  Weather and visa requirements mean we cannot wait for you…. We also think that a 2 week stay is about right. This way, confined spaces and long days sailing (or motoring) do not become tedious.  Having said that, there is usually some flexibility in our schedule to linger in beautiful cays or explore the history of the countries we visit. If you would like to stay in-country longer, we rather like Intrepid for great land-based tours that add an extra dimension to what is often only a coastal exploration with WJ3.  (Ed: 2014. They offer a very tempting trip from Croatia to Istanbul.) 

There is always something interesting to see as we float along

Personal Space. It’s limited! Aside from flexing your sense of humour, we ask that you confine your “stuff” to your cabin, keeping shared areas uncluttered and clean. Luckily, we don’t have to share bathrooms....well, only if underway - see loo comment above. Which brings us to the next topic…

Chores. We would expect that you will be able to share in shopping, cooking, cleaning (inside & out) and boat work, including taking a turn at the helm and perhaps a night-watch if necessary.

Safe Boating. Of course, the Cap’n will read the riot act. He expects safe boating rules are always followed. He’s always willing to talk about boats/boating (groan). At sea, especially on night watch you will need to wear a harness and wet-weather gear. We have some to share but it is better to at least have your own robust weatherproof jacket.

Costs. Finally, whilst the Motleys would love to “keep” you on board, we trust you will be willing to share expenses. Food, drink, fuel, laundry and dockage are the usuals. We cook on board to keep costs down, usually eating out once a week, especially in the Caribbean as it’s very expensive. Exploring local markets however is great fun and fresh food is always preferable to tinned. It’s pleasant to anchor out, a quieter option than a marina, but it isn’t always possible. We also enjoy doing the touristy thing; sometimes hiring cars, taking local buses or doing organised tours. You can do your own freewheeling; we don’t have to be together all the time! (Ed. Note: Thanks to an organised BCK, we've decided on a "kitty" system to share all costs during the trip. It worked so well, again with the Kip's, we now warn you to expect it.)

Sometimes the locals get a bit cranky...

The Cap’n & Crew look forward to having some slave labour. Punishment for mutiny is a keel hauling (irrie, me hearties!) and reward for a good day’s work is a toddy of rum for “sundowners” in the cockpit at 6pm. Usually overlooking a watery view unsurpassed in any travel mag.

Dis No Big T'ing

Windjammer, Windjammer where have you been?: 18 Apr 09

This year’s sailing plan is no small feat! We are headed north and hope to eventually arrive at 35N the upper limit of the Caribbean hurricane belt. The Motleys are now nervously sitting in Trinidad at 11N, below its lower limit, hoping that the seasonal south easterlies start coming in, soooon please! This could mean a pleasant but quick sail northwards. So there may be little time for sightseeing until we arrive in the Bahamas, where we hope to have 2 weeks of bobbing about on the Banks before crossing the Gulf Stream into West Palm Beach and the ICW. We’ve planned 5 stages…

Stage 1: Leeward & Windward Islands

Firstly we intend to hike up island, over-nighting only until we reach Bequia where we will recoup for a few days. From there our next rest-stop will be Pointe a Pitre on Guadeloupe for a quick touristy diversion through La Riviere Salee, a “creek” that separates the two islands of Guadeloupe. After that, we will sail for English Harbour, Antigua to catch our breath before crossing to Nevis, St Kitts, Statia and Saba (& bypassing volcanic Montserrat). This leg (I hope) should take us just over 2 weeks.

We did make: Montserrat's tropical gardens

Stage2: US & Spanish Virgins

From Saba, after another long & overnight sail, we will rest at St Croix (said “croy”), then Culebra before sliding alongside the south coast of Puerto Rico for about 4 to 5 days. From Boqueron (SE coast of Puerto Rico) our destination will be Providenciales, in the Caicos Islands. This will be our longest leg yet and involve a crossing of the infamous Mona Passage before bypassing the Dominican Republic – no time to stop! All this, given fair winds and calm seas, we hope to achieve by early to mid June.

We also managed to stop in St Croix

Stage 3: Bahamas

Once in the Caicos, we should have an easy passage to George Town, Great Exuma. There we can then slow down for a 2 week mooch across the Bahama Banks to either West End (on Little Bahama Bank) or the Bimini Islands before abandoning ourselves to the mercy of those fickle Gulf Stream gods for a safe arrival at West Palm Beach, on the Florida coastline late June to early July.

Shallow Exuma Island chain 

Stage 4: Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway

For those who thought our destination was Miami, we chose West Palm Beach instead as it's further north along the ICW and is also (relatively) quieter; away from Miami’s concrete canal canyons, stink boats and maze of bridges that must be negotiated – all in a 46 footer which will suddenly assume QE2 proportions in the ICW’s confined spaces. Dashed are my hopes of running into the guy (with the sunnies) from CSI Miami, the Everglades and Key West…darn.

Once in the relative safety of the ICW canal system, we can say goodbye to turquoise blue waters & tropical charms. However, we can amble along, motoring over 800nm for a month to 6 weeks, stopping to tour grand southern mansions of the Carolinas before spitting out at Norfolk into Chesapeake Bay. We will, by then, be well above said safety margin of 35N (yeah!!) and hopefully not had to use towing insurance – fingers crossed!!

Yes, many more bridges to come along the ICW

Stage 5: Chesapeake to New York & return

Depending upon remaining time & energy – we are flying out of New York in early October – the Motleys hope to take in a little of the Chesapeake, visit Washington DC and then round Cape May to New York. WJ3 will then be left to her own devices in a Chesapeake Marina to winter in much chillier waters than she’s used to.

So far, the Galley Slave has produced serious passage notes on Stage 1 only…she needs a white board! Personally, I think she’s gone into decline since our little stove has been taken away for servicing.

And who could miss New York City?

Impeccable Timing

The Motley’s are back in town: 17 Apr 09

Here we go…..Round Two! The Motleys (minus Kid Wonder – could we be trusted alone??) arrived late in the evening of 7 Apr and fortunately, all formalities including customs & immigration went smoothly. So it was, we woke early to a typical Trini day - tropical heat, a bustling yard and the call of kiskadees in our rigging. The Cap’n had a list of chores as long as your arm and was keen to get them underway. So, some days later, here we sit in the boat yard, climbing a 10 foot ladder to our 2^nd level, 46 foot, cosy apartment.

Busy in the Yard this morning!

If you imagined us lazing about on perfect beaches, sipping refreshing drinks under shady palms and swimming in blue turquoise waters, then the news is not good. We do have electricity, so can happily plug in our microwave & toaster. We cannot however use our refrigerators, water heater or aircon – all are sea cooled. As for toilets, well it’s a hazardous climb down Rapunzel’s ladder and a swift walk to the “block”. Not being part of the “midnight bucket” brigade, I now know most late night security guards by name! Did I mention the showers were only cold water too?…hmmm! Of course it only takes a brief glance down towards the yachts on Chaguaramas Bay moorings to be MOST thankful. I had forgotten how incredibly strong the current was; a nice rolling boil, offset by wash from fishing pirogues travelling at the speed of light, sets the yachts a rockin’. Hey, don't worry, mon!

A little local colour

As always, the Motley’s timing is just perfect (not!!!). Here we are about to splash - but only when those new boyz toyz – oops, I mean essential works – are completed! Meanwhile all around us there is a daily and increasing cue for laying up as the months tick closer to June and hurricane season. Of course, our schedule was not helped by arriving 2 days before Easter. Hot on its heels was gab-fest, “Summit of the Americas”. Port of Spain was in a state of almost complete lockdown and many locals wisely used their time for a two week lime ( to par teee, mon!). Luckiest were those that managed to swing it on full pay!

Meanwhile, there's always the front stairs to contend with...

The Galley Slave is ever hopeful that we will manage to finalise our chores and even get to do a little sightseeing before weighing anchor and sliding (in fair winds) up island. Yes, I is dreamin’ girl…

Mermaid Pool: a never to be fogotten experience!