Hurricane Omar

I was just reading the recent news of Hurricane Omar: 16th Oct 08, swinging through only ten days after we left for home!



Sad to say that Hurricane Omar has left a trail of devastation in our recent playground. This hurricane is unusual in that it has come from the west and flicked north. We hope everyone we met is safe and that their boats withstood the wild winds, waves and rain.

This map came from Jeff Master's site. 

(Ed. 2022  Sadly, this informative sited closed some years ago) 

Plans, Schedules & History Lessons

Mappin’ it down: 1 Oct 08

This is for our friends and family who have been curious about where we were sailing. Aside from half a world away from home, the Caribbean is a totally different cultural experience.



Christopher Columbus

Columbus named the Caribbean, The Indies, during his voyages in 1492. He believed he had landed in India. The whole area is called the Antilles (apparently after mythical islands at the end of the earth) with the northern islands being the Greater Antilles and the southern islands the Lesser Antilles. Overall The West Indies is a collection of 27 territories and some 7000 islands spread neatly across the equator connecting the US to the South American coastline. Making for a great warm climate sailing adventure!

We’ve been sailing the Lesser Antilles; essentially made up of the Virgin Islands, the Leeward Islands and the Windward Islands down to Trinidad. Our cruise did not include the USVI, due largely to their visa requirements and our schedule, given we had set sail too close for comfort in the hurricane season window. Sitting in Bequia and Grenada watching hurricanes lashing coastal US and the northern Caribbean gave us some sense of relief in that we had made the right decision to move with haste down to the relative safety of 12 degrees. We were happier still to arrive in Trinidad....

General location of the Caribbean

(with an easy to read map thanks to World Atlas)

Salt Whistle Bay

To put things in perspective, it’s time for a short history lesson! Evidence of first settlers in the islands goes back some 5000 years. Later on, Arawaks, a group of peaceful Amerindians, some from the Orinoco River Delta (South America) area, gradually settled on the islands. In the 12^th century, the more war-like Caribs followed. We have these folk to thank for tobacco, the hammock, hearty bbqs and cannibalism; the latter two said to be largely the plight of the Arawaks at the hand of the Caribs. 

Old Warehouses, Grenada

Columbus, in his search for the East Indies in 1492, set the pace for eager Conquistadores greedy for gold and other riches to be had in Central and South America. It didn’t take long before others, in national or self-interest (pirates), set sail for the Spanish Main in search of booty. Maritime dominance was critical and many islands were settled with military establishments to protect these interests. Piracy, legal or otherwise, lasted for several hundred years; well in the 1700’s.

As the turbulent buccaneer era waned, English, French, Dutch and Danish settlers began colonising. From the 1620’s, and over the next 200 years, the islands were frequently fought over and changed hands many times. Pressures varied, including the American Revolution to the Napoleonic Wars. All to the detriment of any surviving Caribs, who just didn’t stand a chance!

Fort George 1705

Although the Spanish had made use of slave labour years before, it wasn’t until the 1780’s when slavery became big business. Following improved law enforcement, casual farming was replaced by organised plantations and the need for cheap labour. The islands produced sugar cane, indigo, pineapples, spices and rum and the Trade Winds were conducive to international business dealings. 

Despite the abolition of slavery by the British in 1834, a profit driven Plantocracy continued their exploitation. Much later, after numerous slave rebellions, a much less profitable system of indentured workers became common. Many of these workers came from places like India and China. However, their life wasn’t much better than that of slaves. By the mid 1800’s, the boom was over; beet had replaced cane sugar, slaves had their freedom and white populations had deserted many of the islands. 

Spiriting off - grocery shopping Caribbean style

Faltering economies and natural disasters eventually forced the islands out of a peaceful slumber and as late as the 1980’s, the rise in tourism became seen as an opportunity for a sustainable life. So here it is today, a popular road, well travelled.

Tourism Caribbean Style

Michael row the boat ashore, NOW!

Wont Seasnin’ wit Dat?: 30 Sep 08 

Sunset over Venezuela - that's South America, folks!

Well, we’ve not got long to go now so it’s time to be a bit reflective about our trip so far. What’s been most important to us? Weather; security; and good ol’ communication!

Hurricanes. Need I say more? Our whole itinerary was planned around the consequences of the weather, in particular hurricanes. If we could get internet connection by hanging upside down over hot coals, our first search was always for weather; hurricane reports as well as local weather. We had a few favourite sites such as Jeff Masters, NHAA and CaribWX; with a little American weatherdotcom smooze thrown in for good measure. The Cap’n perused our cruising guides (all 5 of them) to ascertain the best hurricane safe harbours. We talked to “old hands” and read books on hurricane survival strategies. Thankfully, our only experience was to have those regular trade winds knocked over by north passing “significant features” and so see way too much wind action from the SE.

Montserrat

As if wind watching wasn’t enough, we had to keep a weather eye out for volcanic activity & earthquakes. Lessons from the past, including recent activity on Montserrat prevented us visiting some areas. In Montserrat you need special permission to land because at least half the island is an exclusion zone. (There was an eruption on 28 Jul 08. Luckily we were in St Martins!) The obvious lava flow near St Pierre (Martinique, 1902) was a reminder of the devastation an eruption can bring – not to mention tsunami and other troublesome worries for nautical types. We prepared…it was like being in Nepal all over again!

Saba Rock Resort

Of course, and it seems strange to mention it because after all that’s why we’re here, but we did have to keep an eye out for coral reefs. Beautiful yet treacherous; too many have unwittingly succumbed. In Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, they call one reef “bare boater’s alley”. Despite the wonders of modern navigational aids, “eyeball” navigation in good light was considered the best means for avoiding a good grinding or at worst a sinking! 

Taking Security Seriously

A newspaper published monthly, the Caribbean Compass, gave us an eye on the cruising community; hot topics, news and views. It made for good reading although we were concerned about news of killings and robbings, especially in Venezuela and even St Vincent. Security is a huge issue, and unlike some gun-totin’ Yankees we met, we chose to just be cautious, lock up and ask locals questions. We left our dingy strapped firmly to WJ3 & out the water in Dominica. 

Boat Watch

In St Martin and St Lucia we waited to launch until confirming with marina staff that dingy theft was not an issue. BW decorated our outboard with paint and removed evidence of its horsepower. We also invested in chain & locks. Security net is also a helpful compilation of reported crime, which makes for interesting reading & useful advice. Lastly, we have finally come upon the Cruisers Net on VHF Channel 68. This is daily weather, security, information and social updates for cruisers. SSB radio seems to be somewhat “old hat” given new generation internet availability, so we found it difficult to tune in.

Researchin' Trini style

With the proliferation of internet access, many cafes and marinas are turning to wifi. That doesn’t mean those little radio waves are always buzzin’…. Interference comes in many forms – most usually in the shape of superyachts and hot water boats with big antenna & lots of electronics. Otherwise, our anchorage was out of line-of-sight; just too far out; swinging the wrong way or a multitude other such technical mysteries that my little computer could not cope with! Enough to drive you to drink! Mmmm, now that’s a good idea!

Goin' down de islands

Dropping a Dragon’s Jaw: 26 Sep 08

Our Frying Pan

Ahoy, our Cap’n has been struck asunder - too much walking! His foot is sore and swollen, his temper fractious; he’s been dubbed Cap’n Cripple. After bobbing about in the frying pan for a couple of days, his trusty crew were determined (a mutiny brewing?) to head for Trinidad. 

It meant an overnight sail across waters that had somewhat of a reputation due to strong currents and squalls that race over the islands. Shiver me timbers!  

Approaching a Dragon

We had no sooner set sail (4pm) than Boy Wonder was reeling in his first catch; a nice 8lb tuna. Luckily, we had stocked up on fishing apparatus at Island Water World that day and so had an assortment of lures, nets and storage bags to contain said beastie, well out of the cockpit area. Tuna are rather bloody leaving, in the aftermath of battle, an unpleasantly strong smell! A smell attracting sharks - albeit small ones!! Having reeled in one tuna, we then hooked a second and much larger! If nothing else, we wouldn’t starve in Trinidad.

Real Green Dragons

Columbus discovered Trinidad on his third voyage in 1498. There’s something wild and untamed about it that’s very appealing. We approached in the night past stands of weirdly lit monsters (oil & gas rigs), dodged lightening storms, navigated through strong currents and could smell its earthy smell from quite a distance away. The troubled waters surrounding Trinidad were like liquid oil, all mossy green and velvety.

Chaguaramas- A Forest of Masts

The Motleys navigated through Bocas del Dragon (Dragon’s Mouth although some call it Dragon’s Breath). Either way, it’s spectacular scenery with some nasty underwater surprises if you’re not careful. Well, we were and did arrive safely in Chaguaramas, which we were quick to dub, “chuck-a-ramus” due to all the rubbish swilling around the anchorage. (We later learned it had washed from land during a huge deluge the week before!). 

Line of Sight (just a bit too close!!)

Chaguaramas is both a huge marina complex and a bustling sea port, so the scenery varied from tiny traditional fishermen’s pirogues and boofy tugs to huge cargo carriers in one area to monster superyachts and really small but definitely long term, cruising yachts in the other. (I even saw Receta from that "Mangoes" book!) What a mix! The anchorage was less than peaceful given the tidal chop and traffic slop that moved in and out of the bay day and night. Off course we had been warned about dingy/outboard “teifs” too. We approached with caution….

WJ3 in Pyjamas

I would like to tell you that the Motleys had a great time sightseeing, however we managed to time our arrival on the weekend (yet again!). Combine this with a mid week public holiday, trips to see a doctor (Cap’n Critical), re-confirm flight details (BW), put WJ3 up on the hard again and of course thoroughly clean both WJ3 and ourselves, we saw little else but Budget Chandlery and marina complexes. We did cross paths with some fellow Aussies, Margaret and Brian, who left home in ‘94 to sail the East Coast. They arrived in Darwin in 2000 and thought, let’s keep going! Well, why ever not! Their little jaunt took them through Indonesia to Thailand, then India and the Red Sea to the Med.  Now they are continuing a circumnavigation (as you do), heading for Venezuela, the Panama Canal, the Pacific and home with a little cat they picked up in India. Inspirational stuff!

An Aussie in the West Indies

We are now well below the hurricane belt, WJ3 is safely tucked in bed at Powers Boat Yard and the Motleys are travelling home by jet. (As they say, nothing goes to windward like a 747!) Let’s see what next year’s adventures bring. 
    

 

From:  St Georges, Grenada  Lat/Long: 12 03N  61 45W  Date/Time: 26/9/08: 1600

To: Chaguaramas, Trinidad   Lat/Long: 10 41N  61 39W  Date/Time: 27/9/08: 1000
Time Taken: 87nm (18hrs)  Distance (this year): 849nm (178hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 849nm  (178hrs)   Fastest Speed: Excellent sail – best yet
Weather: Winds E turning NE closer to Trinidad; 10-15kts; 2-4ft swell; thunderstorms

Happy Birthday to BW; we’ll make a cake for next year!

A Well Stocked Galley

Deh Conch Ting: 23 Sep 08

 

The Galley Slave has improvised…1001 ways with chicken. My many market visits have inspired me to find out more about local or Creole foods. Our nearest supermarket for instance has a freezer stocked with pig’s tails, cow heels, liver, tripe, chicken feet, hogs toes, blood sausage, pickled pig’s snout and other such interesting/choice cuts. 

Beef of any variety is a rare sight indeed, although we have been able to find minced beef at times. But there’s always plenty of frozen chicken! A whole new meaning was added to “chicken” in Dominica, however. Mountain chicken’s little legs belong to an unfortunately named frog, the crapaud.  

Fisherman, Antigua

Creole cooking traces its beginnings back to the times of Plantocracy and “imported” African slaves. A hard life meant adapting traditional recipes with what was available. The Planters weren’t that generous, so little piggie destined for Sunday roast, meant offal and disposables for the slaves to make do with. And so they did, remarkably well. 

In fact, some dishes like Mannish Water (Goat Water) made from ram goat offal etc is declared a popular performance enhancer. Perhaps they could whip up a quick batch for some of our footie teams…. BW is devastated that the Broncos were defeated recently, especially by Melbourne! (Yes, yes...I know what they mean by performance!!)  

Coconut Palms Antigua

Coupled with these popular cuts are the wonderfully descriptive dish names. Roti (yes, East Indians became indentured workers as well) can be served plain or stuffed with curry as doubles – popular fast foods. It can also be called “bus-up-shut” when beaten to a flaky consistency or “fling up &clap”. Blaff is a spicy fish stock; coo coo fungi is a polenta-like cornmeal with okra; foo foo is cooked plantain; and jerk, a popular spicy dressing used mostly on chicken destined for the bbq. Grenada’s national dish is “oil down”. Dumplings are popular and are known as spinners, floaters, sinkers depending upon – well, who knows! Soups, stews and curries (the spicier the better!) are very popular. 

Easy catch

Seafood is a popular meal-time basic too; it’s abundant and fresh. However lobster & lambi (or conch) supplies have suffered due to their popularity - one of the downsides of a tourism driven economy. The aroma of dried saltfish permeates every supermarket aisle…..driving me well away. On the up side, Grenada is known as the spice island, so the market in particular is fragrant with the aroma of freshly grown nutmegs, cloves, mace and cinnamon.

Feeding Baby Stingrays

Ground provisions or earthy “blue food” are also piled high on market stalls. Readily available root crops include sweet potato, yam, tania, eddo and dasheen (taro). I think most gardens have a patch or two of these favourites. Dried lentils such as pigeon peas, kidney beans and chick peas (Americans call them garbanzos) are also plentiful and cooked imaginatively. Staples like limes and coconuts (brown, green and in-between) are in plentiful supply. We use lime in everything, from a chicken “wash” to slices in our beer but I still buy coconut milk in tins. The lovely market lady brandished her huge cutlass (machete) with such precision when prepping our coconut water drinks; it’s a real skill! I can’t be trusted with anything sharper than a butter knife…

Who kicked over my gin, again? (whilst cleaning a fish)

Other vegies available in plentiful supply are okra, christophene (choko), plantains (also called green figs or locally “bluggoes”), calaloo, similar to spinach but with a nasty prickle if eaten raw, and the biggest avocados (zaboca) I’ve ever seen. Of course, fruit & veg are mostly seasonal and not always grown commercially as we do, so quality is not always guaranteed. Supply also varies tremendously between islands. Breadfruit, though considered an island staple, was introduced by Captain Bligh in 1793 as a way of improving food supplies for slaves. He would have had plants delivered earlier had it not been for the famous mutiny which sidetracked him for a wee while.

Lunch-time snooze wired for sound

The best has been left to last… Mango season is nearly over, so we’re indulging. Some are a bit stringy and BW complains that they just aren’t to Queensland standard but the crew could not be called scurvy! 

Over the course of our journey we’ve sampled small sweet pines, sun-ripened paw paw, local green-skinned oranges, guava, soursop (custard apple), passionfruit and carambola or star fruit. We also tried a fruit that is lychee-like but I’ve yet to find out what it’s called (possibly the guinep). My attempts to ask the rasta vendor resulted in some interesting hand waving and a few laughs for us all. Well, we now know how to eat what-ever they are! 

A great place to start

Fishing for Jocks

In the Pan: 18 Sep 08 

The Carenage, St Georges, Grenada

And so it was, we moved on again. The Crew, eager to keep up his record, put out both lures. Despite a strike that had us all running about like keystone cops, it became one of our “catch & returns”, fortunately not taking our expensive tackle with it!

This time our destination was St Georges, the historic capital of Grenada. This amazing town dates back to the 1650's and a number of building still have wonderful red "fish scale" tiles brought over as ballast by sailing ships. 

WJ3 in the Pan under her new awning

After a tour of the Lagoon (better known as the Pan) we decided that outside the harbour was better for swimming, and so anchored off Ross Point. No sooner was the pick set, than a thunder storm blew over, gusting nearly 30kts with an exciting steep swell. We sat in the cockpit (& rain) watching a couple of boats drag at anchor and a huge cat swing way too close for comfort. Worse still, the coffee plunger nearly came to grief. The Motleys crossed fingers that Big Bertha would work her magic for us. As soon as the winds died, many of us “fair-weather” types motored into the safety of “the Pan”.

Lunch & e-mail

The Grenada Yacht Club is probably the same vintage as the Port Dickson Yacht Club (Malaysia). It certainly has the same tropical ambiance and its kitchen serves an interesting selection of local foods. We tried their breaded flying fish & of course the ubiquitous hamburger. We have though, at least been able to catch up on the essentials – washing, food and internet. 

Fort George 1705-1710

We’ve also taken time to explore St Georges, mostly on foot. It’s quite hilly but thanks to French ingenuity, a tunnel built in 1894 under Fort George, connects the Carenage with a colourful local fruit/veg/spice market (and equally colourful lady vendors) and from there it’s only a short walk to the fish market.

Sendel Tunnel 1894

Apparently fish is scarce at this time of year, so only a few tuna graced concrete slabs. Signs everywhere reminded folks that “bad language” would not be tolerated. Guess Gordon Ramsey wouldn’t be welcome here? On the wharf, a couple of fishing boats were selling their popular load of “jocks” (oh, that’s jacks with a Caribbean accent). I could smell the fresh meat market before I saw it. Having experienced enough open air butchers in my life, it was easily bypassed, especially in 33 degree heat.

Selling Jocks

One thing we can’t do in the Lagoon is swim. Happily, it’s only a short dingy ride round to Grand Anse, a wide sweep of white sand, swaying coconut palms, clear water and subdued resorts. (They’re sensibly not allowed to build higher than a coconut palm). This is where you will find us most days after about 3pm. Cooling down before taking sundowners somewhere….

From:  Clarke’s Court Bay, Grenada  Lat/Long: 12 01N  61 44W  Date/Time: 18/9/08: 0830
To: St Georges, Grenada  Lat/Long: 12 03N  61 45W  Date/Time: 18/9/08: 1100
Time Taken: 11nm (2hrs)  Distance (this year): 762nm (160hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 762nm  (160hrs)   Fastest Speed: Motored**
Weather: Winds ESE 5-10kts; 2-4ft swell; fine day with a few clouds
(** It was very calm)

Cargo of Spice & Rum

It’s only a rum bar away…: 16 Sep 08

Hog Island

Our next stop was Clark’s Court Bay; again through a narrow channel beside some hefty coral reefs. This time we found a much larger bay with any number of relatively secluded anchorages. Actually, the Motleys spent more time motoring about trying to decide which one was the “perfect” location than it took to actually get to it! Finally, we dropped the hook near Petit Calivigny in 28ft of green murky water and MUD….. It was here that the Cap’n cleaned our catch! Yes, BW had done it again. A nice big tuna, cut into steaks to put on the bbq. Yum oh! 

Catch of the Day

The next morning, the Cap’n & GS checked out facilities at a friendly marina and little town of Woburn. Again, it was very rural; very lush with small household gardens flourishing madly. Breadfruit trees were dripping with soccer ball sized fruits, paw paw and mango trees decorated almost every garden; seasonal okra were ready to pick and passionfruit vines ran over fences just laden with ripening, yellow fruit. 

We eventually found a small grocery store, bypassing several rum shops, including the famous Nimrods, on the way. Even though the cruising community was well represented in all anchorages, we were struck again by low season blues - little was open. So, no washing or eating unless we moved on…

Clark’s Court Bay was used in the old days by sailing ships to load cargoes of spices and rum. This history continues in a way, given Woburn’s many little rum bars. Sometimes, these bars are little more than a shady spot with a stool or two and a killer “top shelf” selection. The better ones might have a telly – tuned to the cricket of course!  Anyone wanting to know more about rum should follow up on the Ministry of Rum, an interesting site. All islands seem to have their own special brew, but here’s our favourite tipple or two. Cheers!

Grocery Store, Woburn

‘Ti Punch (petit or small). Try 1½ white rum (rhum agricole, mes amis), ¼ sugar cane juice and ¼ lime juice mixed into a shot glass. Drink quickly (the taste is awful). The follow-up (if you’re still breathing) is called a cinq pou cent (literally 5%)…meaning half of the first. We tried it first in Iles des Saintes. Brave.

Planteur Punch. A mix of rum & fruit juice over ice. To my dismay, our Cap’n took a liking to my hard-to-find ruby grapefruit juice and for reasons of incrimination, he refuses to share his mix ratio. Try filling a glass with ice and adding 4 fruit juice, 2 rum, & 1 of lime juice. Add a sprinkle of nutmeg &/or Angostura Bitters depending upon your choice of juice.

Painkiller. The GS became fond of this one, but the Crew refused to make it up until after dinner….otherwise dinner prep was not taken as seriously as it should! His recipe is to mix 3 pineapple juice, 1 orange juice, 2 rum (authentic BVI mix uses Pusser’s) & 1 coconut cream over ice. Garnish with nutmeg.

From:St David’s Harbour, Grenada Lat/Long: 12 01N  61 40W Date/Time: 16/9/08: 1500

To: Clarke’s Court Bay, Grenada  Lat/Long: 12 01N  61 44W  Date/Time: 16/9/08: 1600
Time Taken: 5nm (1hrs)  Distance (this year): 751nm (158hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 751nm  (158hrs)   Fastest Speed: Motored**
Weather: Winds ESE 5-10kts; 2-4ft swell; fine day with a few clouds
(** Who cares – we caught a tuna on the way!)

Sunset with Sundowners