Mixed Seafood on Iles de Saintes

Upsetting Wind Gods: 14 Aug 08

Ilet Pigeon Costeau Marine Reserve

After the peace and quiet of Deshaies, our next stop was to be Ilet Pigeon, a famed dive site and part of the Jacques Cousteau Marine Reserve. 

Unfortunately we nosed out of Deshaies into a fresh SW breeze.  What did we do to upset the wind gods, mmm? The anchorage opposite Ilet Pigeon was too exposed and four dive boats huddled in the only patch of calm water on the north side of the island. It would be like diving in Pitt Street, but full of Frenchies! 

Go Girl!

Keep moving down to the next anchorage, Anse de la Barque - nope…too exposed! So the crew rallied and prepared to make landfall in the Iles de Saintes, some 25 miles south of Guadeloupe. Our journey was only broken by the zing of our lure. 

The galley slave sought help from the Cap’n to haul in a 20lb barracuda. Having subdued him with a sip of Pernod (the Cap’n wasn’t wasting his good rum), our informative guide books listed barracuda as primary offender on the ciguatera list (damn!). Big Mistake 1 and NO fish dinner tonight again!! We kept him, thinking perhaps the locals might not be too concerned about toxic algae or at least need some lobster pot bait - Big Mistake 2. Isles des Saintes is a holiday destination for well-off Guadeloupians; a French Riviera in miniature. And of course, we expertly timed our arrival mid-Assumption Day long weekend. 

Pain du Sucre anchorage

Our anchorage, the least busy, off Pain de Sucre was filled with noisy party goers, mostly in powerful, big, pointy, hot water boats. All driven at high speed by alfa males through anchored craft and swimmers!! (Note to self: check French for “you crazy idiot” or perhaps something a little stronger?). 

Despite all this surrounding mayhem, we seemed to be destined to attract the crabs! Yes again, another visit from our efficient customs officers. 

Wakeboarding near Le Patè

The small settlement of Bourg de Saintes was jam-packed with visitors, arriving on huge ferries. With only a few shops and restaurants open, the crowds milled restlessly, up and down narrow streets in the heat. A temporary stadium had been set up with plenty of Heineken beer tents for the evening’s entertainment but at midday it was just too hot…. The boys walked over to the nearest beach, where boats had been recently banned due to pollution. It was now a temporary campsite, but with no toilets in sight, the boys beat a hasty retreat from this smelly paradise. “Besides it had no surf!” sighed a sadly deprived Boy Wonder.

Sunset over Iles de Saintes

As the weekend progressed, crowds continued to pour in. Fort Napoleon, built in 1867 was closed for the duration and by Saturday we couldn’t even buy a fresh baguette. Not that we could have anyway as we didn’t have any Euros and of course the only bank in town didn’t open until Tuesday. Also, Bourg de Saintes' one ATM wasn’t keen to give up its store of cash to us foreigners (with our greenbacks & English language)…. Frustrated, we upped anchor and actually backtracked north (5 hours!); to Pointe-a-Pitre, an airport, a UPS office, a working ATM and to wait for our rudder.

From: Deshaies, Guadeloupe  Lat/Long: 16 18N  61 45W  Date/Time: 14/8/08: 1020

To:  Bourge des Saintes           Lat/Long: 15 52N  61 35W  Date/Time: 14/8/08: 1700
Time Taken: 30nm (6.5hrs) Distance (this year): 373nm (81hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 373nm  (81hrs)   Fastest Speed: 5.8kt set by Hollywood
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds SW 12-15kts; 2-4ft swell; 0.5kt W current

Only Thinking of You....

Food for the Soul: 13 Aug 08

Caribbean Red (Quick, grab him!)

While we’re on a homey theme here, thought you might like this local (Creole?) recipe for chicken soup. (It appears on a Maggi soup mix packet). At least you can’t say we’re not thinking of you!

Chicken Foot Soup

Add 227g of chicken foot (yes, really!) to 2.5 litres of boiling water with a clove of garlic and few grains of pimento. Simmer 10 mins. Add 454g pumpkin and simmer for 15 mins more. Add 1 sliced carrot, 1 small cho cho (christophene) (still wondering?… for the Queenslanders amongst us it’s choko!), 3 small potatoes, chopped and 114g of yellow yam diced. Add 3 sprigs of thyme and 3 sprigs of escalion (chives). Season with spinners (I believe that’s small dumplings – no recipe for that!) and 1 scotch bonnet (a hot pepper). Continue cooking until vegetables are tender. Add 2 packets of Jamaica Cock Soup Mix with Pumpkin. Remove pepper before serving.

Roti Hut, a lunchtime snack bar, Antigua

Well, good luck. At least the vegies will be nice. Reminds me of that old story about cockatoo & stone soup? When the bird is cooked, throw it out and eat the stone.  

Oh yes, they really do have frozen packets of chicken foot here in the supermarkets if you need some! The Cap’n & I tasted this “local delicacy” of chicken’s feet in Hong Kong many years ago – I wasn’t going back for seconds then….

Days of Our Drearies...

Life on board: 13 Aug 08

On the hard, Tortola British Virgins

As we sit planning the next part of our voyage, it occurred to me that you might like to know something of our daily life on board – nothing personal – this isn’t really “days of our drearies”, you know! 

At 'A' Dock, Nanny Cay BVI

At dock: While this does have its good points – power sometimes (we run on 110v; some islands only offer 220v); real toilets; endless showers; no rocking about in swells, but being at dock can be a bit limiting.  Marinas are often tucked away in mangrove ringed backwaters so it’s often hot and still (especially when you can’t run the aircon/power); mozzies in their millions find you especially attractive and there’s all that land noise – cars, roosters, dogs, flies, boat repairs and so forth.

Refuelling near Pont Levant, St Martin

At sea: Currently because of our rudderless self-steering, shifts at the helm are about 1 to 1½ hours, largely dependent on wind and sea strengths. Both boys fiddle with the sails incessantly; there’s a speed record for each segment to be had! The Cap’n is in charge of the new GPS system which tracks our course, usually hourly, more frequently when we’re near land. We put out a lure, set up the ipods and avoid where possible going below…. The crew prefers to helm and the galley slave clutches a bucket (only if we’re bashing into it). 

Anchoring really can be this good.  Antigua

On arrival at a port, we put up the awning and winch both Bruce and motor off the boat back into the water. Everything that has been stowed away in lockers, can come out again (kettle, buckets, books, computers etc etc). This process takes us about an hour or so either side of departure/arrival.

Happily, BW found surf.  Apple Bay Tortola BVI

At anchor: This is our favourite because we can easily visit harbours, shop, fish, swim or sometimes snorkel - right off the back of the boat. Often, the water is so clear that even in 15 or more feet we can see the bottom.
 

Our day starts with a swim and freshwater shower off the back of the boat. The galley slave might (or might not) cook breakfast. It all depends on wash-up sizze/ hormones/ inspiration/ available foods! The generator runs twice a day for an hour to keep the fridge (food) cool and freezer (beer) cold. While the generator’s on we can power the microwave or toaster and maybe one aircon (but usually only in the evening to keep the cook happy). 

Mooring 'mongst the Cats at Saba Rock, BVI

As the fridge isn’t too efficient, we need to shop daily for our perishables. We try to buy local, fresh foods but as I’ve mentioned, most is flown in from US or for the French islands, from France. So most meats are frozen and I can’t remember the last time I saw a piece of real beef – pre-packaged hamburgers don’t count. Amazingly, Guadeloupe grows sugar (possibly to keep up rum supplies) & bananas commercially with only a few small market gardens here and there. We shop more frequently if there’s a nice patisserie close by. Mangoes are in season now, so we are sampling a few…. Of course, there’s always the Captain’s “Personal Favourite”, a stock of corned beef in the galley locker, if we’re stuck…augggghhhh!

Making new friends

Laundry is also a weekly chore if there’s a laverie automatique nearby. If not, it’s a hand wash in that ever-useful bucket. WJ3 looks like a Chinese laundry at times with sheets and towels flapping from every available line. We’ve only lost one t-shirt overboard so far (and our yellow Q flag – but that’s another story!).

Rainy Season, Guadeloupe

There’s always communications too. Well, mainly posting up this blog, taking photographs during shore visits and keeping the computers up to speed. My preference is passage planning – “I think we should go here next, dear” - so we have a few good cruising guides to read up. Internet access is a must for weather information that we would like to check at least twice daily – if any internet’s to be found.

Any free time (day or night) is otherwise spent closing/opening hatches! Unlike windows, hatches (having been designed by men) naturally attract rain…in volumes! Just don’t get me started.

Fishing Championships

Fishing while you wait: 12 Aug 08

Fishermen in Deshaies

Fishing is only sport for fish…have you noticed? We had now unsuccessfully trawled a lure over long distances. 

"Kamikazi" flying fish don’t really count either, although I understand they are a local delicacy in Barbados. English Harbour had proven less than successful, even with fish flopping about close to the boat. An amused Cap’n was literally hand feeding these little treasures whilst my bait didn’t even get a tooth mark on it.

That squid must be working!

Our Cap’n was inspired however, after seeing a fisherman angling off the tiny dingy dock in Deshaies - with his spark plug sinker and squid for appat (bait). So, the challenge was on! Clutching a 3lb box of frozen squid, our fearless leader was back on board with rods at the ready. 

Kid Wonder, keen to participate, also put out a line over WJ3’s stern. And yes, they did catch something…mere babies who didn’t know any better! 

GS snorkelled by, reporting in on the action from below!

Clearly not a local fisherman

Inspired, we drifted the next night in Bruce (3 men in a tub?) off the cliffs that mark the entrance to the bay, hoping to strike it lucky. Not a chance! Maybe it’s low season for the fish too? 

Kid Wonder’s going to go further out to the reef tonight… If nothing else, I guess we could eat any left-over squid – the fish don’t seem to like it!

Finding the next Boulangerie

Southward Bound down the Leeward’s: 11 Aug 08

Quaint Deshaies

Guadeloupe is shaped like a giant butterfly; sitting a little less than halfway on our journey down the island chain. We can’t decide whether to gunkhole down the lee side (west side) or slide down the central mosquito infected mangroves of the Riviere Salee. Finally we take the former - the channel has 2 ponts levant (lifting bridges) with a 5.30am opening (the crew’s not at their best at that time of day) and a challenging depth (well, lack of it really!). Did we mention the mozzies? So, we left Antigua early for a short day sail, almost directly south, to the west side of this attractive island. Even with the winds tending to the east, the swell made our journey “challenging”. However I am happy to report (thanks to the wonders of modern medicine) no bucket was necessary. The Cap’n thinks he is making a sailor of me yet! (ho ho!)

And lots of Caribbean Colour

We anchored in Deshaies (pronounced day hay), after skimming a minefield of fish traps and lobster pots set along coastal reefs, to clear customs. The village is just so quaint with a central church and clock tower which chimes the hour. Deshaies also has many a misguided rooster, they crow all day long – all so very rural France! All the houses, cute timbered & shuttered, are painted in bright Caribbean colours. The surrounding countryside is quite steep but it is beautifully green and lush. The Cap’n took a short hike up-river to take some exercise declaring the scenery spectacular but quite remote.

Guadeloupe's rugged west coast

Thanks to low season closures, our prepaid wifi didn’t work… So once again we sought out an internet café. Le Pelican, (after slowly deciphering French signage), thankfully had a couple of computers available, even if the keyboards weren’t the standard “qwerty” system. How quickly one learns - it’s the little things that count!!!

Our rudder it seems is still in the UK… The Cap’n went ballistic. Need I say more?

From: English Harbour, Antigua Lat/Long:17 00N 61 45W Date/Time:11/8/08: 0740

To:  Deshaies, Guadeloupe  Lat/Long: 16 18N  61 45W  Date/Time: 11/8/08: 1400
Time Taken: 42nm (6.5hrs) Distance (this year): 343nm (74.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 343nm (74.5hrs) Fastest Speed: 8.4kt by Hollywood**
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds ENE 10-15kts; 5-6 ft swell; 0.5kt W current
(**Our record so far)

Makin' Friends

Wat Up, Mon? 8-10 Aug 08

Wild Ones at Devil's Bridge

Again we decided to hire a car to do a little round-island exploring. Antigua is home to the Sir Vivian Richards Stadium; built for the 2007 World Cup (we’re taking cricket here, folks!). It now sits like an abandoned monolith; the pitch half dug up and not a soul to be seen. To the east we discovered wonderful beaches (Half Moon & Non Such Bays), fantastic views (Fort Shirley) and feral donkeys (Devil’s Bridge). We arrived too late to swim with the stingrays (yes, don’t even think Steve Urwin, Mum!) and managed to get caught up in a local funeral cortège as it wound its way from village to cemetery. 

Pirates of the Caribbean

Religion is big here. Every village has its share of churches and they seem well attended, if not oddly named (Joyful Wayside Tabernacle). We drove by sturdy St Paul’s Anglican Church in Falmouth, the island’s oldest building dating to 1676, St Barnabus Anglican Chapel with its beautifully coloured stained glass windows in Liberta, and bright pink Tyrells Catholic Church near Swetes.  We did wonder about the welfare of parishioners from the Melting Fire Tabernacle in St Johns however…

Falmouth Harbour, within easy walking distance of our anchorage, is home to the famous Antigua Yacht Club (& annual round of races from Dec to May). Let’s talk serious money here; classics, superyachts, model boats and plenty of French champagne. However at this time of the year it reverts back to a sleepy village – the locals must really love the peace & quiet. 



DON'T sit there on the cliff...

For our final fling, we decided to go to the Fort Shirley Sunday (sundown) Barbecue. The crew mutinied and insisted on taking a taxi up 1.6km of uphill, winding road to Signal Hill (148m). The view over Freeman Bay was spectacular from the 1791 Guardhouse (see previous post): you may be able to see WJ3 to the left - the boat covered in a big, blue plastic tarp…our awning & the best $12 we ever spent. 

We decided we were now well & truly over barbeque food though – chicken & ribs drowned in bbq sauce, but the music was great. A steel pan band played initially (4-7pm) and then later a reggae band. There was a good mix of expats, locals and visitors making quite a lively crowd.

Playin' those steel pans!

The excitement didn’t stop there! We decided to walk down the hill to Bruce, tied up securely at Nelson’s Dockyard. “Refreshing exercise; it’ll do you good,” said the Cap’n!  Constable Jackson of the Antiguan Police Force however, did not agree. He bundled us into his car and gave us a lift & lecture the rest of the way home. 

It seems it is easier to take care of those stray chickens than chastise da loose mongoose! Mon...

Groovin' to the Reggae

Taking one look at these groovy groovers, you'd certainly have to agree???

Nelson's Dockyard

Into Nelson’s Arms: 7 Aug 08

Tardis misplaced?

After clearing the decks of misguided flying fish, the Cap’n hoisted the Q (clearance) & Antigua flags as we entered English Harbour. You could be forgiven for thinking that you had just stepped into the 18^th century. Nelson’s Dockyard is a beautifully restored British naval base, once the home of the then, Captain Lord Nelson. It’s apparently a rare example of a working Georgian marina. The dockyard even has a red phone box….or was it really the Doctor’s tardis?

Needless to say, our first mission was to locate that @$#*#!! rudder, now missing in action. We caught a local mini bus into St John’s, an exciting scramble of local cottages, businesses, traffic and markets sitting in huge disparity with an enormous white cruise liner at the dock.

Last Canon 1805

Our rudder it seems was still sitting in the UK….well, why ever not? The Cap’n turned a pasty colour so we quickly caught an even more local bus back, meeting an interesting assortment of locals, including a Rasta. He was only too happy to tell us, and everyone else on the bus, what he thought about life, women, religion, and our presence on the bus. To much general amusement, he noted that no-one wanted to sit near either Boy Wonder or him; “Wat dey tink, we gonna eat dem?”

Copper Store Nelson's Dockyard

We decided to rest for a few days in our Freeman Bay anchorage below Fort Shirley to just enjoy the pleasure of swimming in pristine blue waters, watching turtles swim by and taking a sundowner or two at a quiet bar in the dockyards.   It is hard to imagine how busy this place must be in “season”.

Now we really can't check out until we've shown you what a stunning place Antigua is.  Look at this view from English Harbour back to Falmouth Harbour. 

Freeman Bay (that's WJ3 on far left)...Nice!

Hangin' Out for Nelson's

A Leap of Faith: 6-7 Aug 08

This is your Cap'n Speaking

Having finished our chores in St Martin, it was time to move on; move south. We were still missing one piece of our self-steering – only the rudder! Without it, we had the world’s most expensive boat handle. Cap’n had arranged to pick up our missing parcel in Guadeloupe. Mmmmm, I can see we’ll be chasing this rudder all over the Caribbean!

Sunset over Marigot Bay

Planning to get to Antigua, some 100 miles away, we hoisted anchor from Marigot Bay and set off by 4.15am. Hard as it might be to imagine, Hollywood was up, keen to move on. The new GPS was a bonus in the dark, especially as there were a few rather large AND unlit shipping buoys between us and our course. Safely around the end of St Martin’s and smack bang into ESE winds and rather a large swell. Oh goodie!

Reminiscent of our Anegada Passage trip, it didn’t take long before I was closeted in the head with bucket – not a glamorous look! We managed to get as far as St Barts, a tiny 26 n miles away before I called for respite!! Reluctantly, the Cap’n turned off course and anchored in the very swelly port of Gustavia. The sounds of my heaving must have attracted Customs….we were soon boarded by a boatload of French officials who thoroughly searched WJ3, in particular Hollywood’s cabin. (That’s what you get for not shaving!)

We found better refuge in Anse du Grand Colombier, a Reserve Naturelle, which the boys hoped was “nudist beach” – but only for turtles (nice big ones)! We spent a pleasant few hours there recouping (and taking Dramamine) before launching off into the night and on to Antigua. 


From:  Marigot Bay, St Martin Lat/Long: 18 04N  63 05W  Date/Time: 6/8/08: 0420

To:  English Harbour, Antigua  Lat/Long: 17 00N  61 45W  Date/Time: 7/8/08: 1030
Time Taken: 109nm (24hrs) Distance (this year): 301nm (68hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 301nm  (68hrs)   Fastest Speed: 7.2kt set by Cap’n**
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds ENE 15-20kts; 6-8 ft swell; 0.5kt W current
(**We average 5.5kts; 26nm (4.5hrs) St Barts; 83nm (16.5hrs) Antigua)

Cooks Tour: St Martin

Cooks Tour: 2 Aug 08

Friar's Bay: Full Moon Parties

Since there was little sign of any pigs, let alone hungry ones, we invested in a small inbuilt GPS, which connects to a computer & chart program. That should save the Cap’n having to get up (on the hour every hour) to take readings as we belt along between islands. It also means a better chance of staying on course…

Pont Levant

Meanwhile we hired a car to do a quick Cook’s tour of the island. Naturally we filled up with petrol and only used a quarter…..and that was driving around the island at least 4 or 5 times to use up as much “gas” as possible. We stopped when we felt giddy!  Using Lonely Planet “highlights” for our guide, some of the areas we explored were:

Grand Case: a quaint French village around a nice bay. We wished we had time to anchor but c’est la vie! Grand Case is renowned for its classic French restaurants and local barbeques. Cap’n Salt finally got his lobster and Hollywood chose a lobster pizza.

Orient Beach: a beautiful stretch of beach ringed by resorts, warm water, jet skis and colourful deck chairs – very European. Nearby, is the Islet Pinel (a picturesque, low key resort) and Anse Marcel, a high brow marina complex. 

Boys fishing off canal

Pic Paradis: the Island’s highest point. As there was walking involved, Hollywood baulked. Instead we drove down a pretty country drive (all 2km of it) to the village of Colombier, which gave us a glimpse of rural life, pre-tourist. I’m sure the locals thought we’d totally lost it!

Now, how do you milk gas tanks?

Nightlife. Hollywood was itching to see “Bliss”, the tres chic nightclub. As it didn’t open until 11pm, his dowdy parents made his life a misery…as usual.

Otherwise, we have become completely familiar with supermarkets, hardware stores and chandleries...plus the odd bakery or two!!