Finding the next Boulangerie

Southward Bound down the Leeward’s: 11 Aug 08

Quaint Deshaies

Guadeloupe is shaped like a giant butterfly; sitting a little less than halfway on our journey down the island chain. We can’t decide whether to gunkhole down the lee side (west side) or slide down the central mosquito infected mangroves of the Riviere Salee. Finally we take the former - the channel has 2 ponts levant (lifting bridges) with a 5.30am opening (the crew’s not at their best at that time of day) and a challenging depth (well, lack of it really!). Did we mention the mozzies? So, we left Antigua early for a short day sail, almost directly south, to the west side of this attractive island. Even with the winds tending to the east, the swell made our journey “challenging”. However I am happy to report (thanks to the wonders of modern medicine) no bucket was necessary. The Cap’n thinks he is making a sailor of me yet! (ho ho!)

And lots of Caribbean Colour

We anchored in Deshaies (pronounced day hay), after skimming a minefield of fish traps and lobster pots set along coastal reefs, to clear customs. The village is just so quaint with a central church and clock tower which chimes the hour. Deshaies also has many a misguided rooster, they crow all day long – all so very rural France! All the houses, cute timbered & shuttered, are painted in bright Caribbean colours. The surrounding countryside is quite steep but it is beautifully green and lush. The Cap’n took a short hike up-river to take some exercise declaring the scenery spectacular but quite remote.

Guadeloupe's rugged west coast

Thanks to low season closures, our prepaid wifi didn’t work… So once again we sought out an internet café. Le Pelican, (after slowly deciphering French signage), thankfully had a couple of computers available, even if the keyboards weren’t the standard “qwerty” system. How quickly one learns - it’s the little things that count!!!

Our rudder it seems is still in the UK… The Cap’n went ballistic. Need I say more?

From: English Harbour, Antigua Lat/Long:17 00N 61 45W Date/Time:11/8/08: 0740

To:  Deshaies, Guadeloupe  Lat/Long: 16 18N  61 45W  Date/Time: 11/8/08: 1400
Time Taken: 42nm (6.5hrs) Distance (this year): 343nm (74.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 343nm (74.5hrs) Fastest Speed: 8.4kt by Hollywood**
Weather: Fresh Trade Winds ENE 10-15kts; 5-6 ft swell; 0.5kt W current
(**Our record so far)