Crabby Ole Boy



Warner's book is a must read if you want to
really know what makes the Chesapeake tick

Here we are on lower Chesapeake.  It’s not until you see it that you realise the extent of this waterway and begin to understand its diversity.  Chesapeake Bay is about 200 miles long, stretches an average of 20 miles wide and its muddy waters are about 20 feet deep.  These shallow and protected waters offer more than 4000 miles of coastline and feed from several major rivers.

The basin was created some 35 million years ago by a mega-meteorite (7^th June just after lunch), according to local sailing mag, “SpinSheet” .  See, sailors do still spin yarns!!.  In truth, deep natural channels are actually remains of an ancient Susquehanna River, fed in prehistoric times by glaciers to the north.  Unbelievably, it still flows deep below the Bay’s tepid waters – a drowned river. 

Step 1: Cut off face, gills and tail flap

All that water flowing in and out of the Bay makes for a heady mix - saltwater in the south (Norfolk), brackish mid-Bay and freshwater in the northern regions.  Just add a lot of silt, mud, marshland and eel grass and you have a perfect paradise for crabs.  It’s just as well!  Huge quantities are taken from the Bay each year and packed off to processing plants and restaurants across the country.  

Step 2: Dip in egg & milk, then bread crumb mix

Last October, if you recall, we had the good fortune to attend a crab cracking.  Dozens of steamed hard shells, liberally sprinkled with “Old Bay” seasoning were thickly spread across plastic covered tables.  We wasted no time in using mallets and meat pickers to get at that delicious, sweet flesh.  This year, we arrived in time to sample soft shells.  GS decided, on advice from the ladies at J&W Seafoods, to go it alone.  Soft shells have moulted and are mostly small to really small.  The whole crab is dusted with seasoning mix and deep fried.  We chomped and chewed our way through 3 crabs each, claws and all.  We both agreed that you have to try most things at least once. 

Step 3: Fry 2-3 mins per side

A lot of the hard shell crab catch seems to be “picked” so this saves us a nasty job of shelling.  Meat is graded, packaged and sent to market.  Some is used to make crab cakes, a local speciality.  We’ve sampled jumbo lump crab cakes (delicious) as part of a “top shelf” sampling of locally caught seafood. 

Step 4: Eat before they escape

Seafood on the whole is served battered and deep fried or covered in pungent sauces/spices.  Locals consume seafood at arster (oyster) roasts; clam bakes and in raw bars.  Another favourite, although I think it originates further south, is a low country boil – a messy mix of seafood, meats and vegetables steamed in beer and spices eaten right off the table. 

Meanwhile, I’ve been reading William Warner’s “Beautiful Swimmers”.  Written in 1976, it's a tribute to Chesapeake’s favourite blue crabs and provides an insight into the lives of hardworking watermen who catch them.  It seems we, the recreational crabbing set, are known as “chicken neckers” after our favourite crab bait, and are the scourge of watermen up and down the bay.  I don’t think they have a lot to worry about just yet – we’re still up on the hard!!

Head First

Down at the Docks

It’s been a little over 3 weeks since we arrived in Deltaville and all I’ve seen of the Captain is ahemmm!… his rear end!  He’s been head first in the bilges, in the engine bay, in the rear lockers, in the water tanks and especially in the head….

The Cap'n tests all his new equipment

Heads, as every landlubber knows are fickle devices - ones that cause embarrassing moments such as not working or blocking up. They’re a likely cause of sinking (stinking too!) the boat or even worse, guaranteed, at their mere mention, to incur the Captain’s wrath.  Here in the US, they are very head conscious and have potty patrols (in stinkboats, ha ha haaaa!!!).  I kid you not!!  You can be waved down, boarded and have your heads checked and tested – making sure that you’re not, sin of sins, pumping overboard. Then you're fined too!  In the interests of sound ecological practices aboard WJ3, we have turfed out our forward cabin head and replaced it with a new COMPOSTING loo.  Yes, that’s right folks, made by sailors for sailors, composting loo.  We have humped aboard a large bag of peat moss for said compost starting agent and….when it’s fully installed, cross our fingers and hope it really works.  And or course, at that time, it will be christened “the turdis”.

Survived another winter...

Enough potty humour for now… WJ3 is well on the way to becoming a spoilt princess as more and more repairs, maintenance or upgrades are completed. Two new sails (Rolly Tasker spinnaker & storm trysail); a series drogue; a wash-down pump (to wash muddy anchors & stop GS swearing – sound carries across water you know!); a cute little crane to lift Bruce’s engine (no more winch grinding now!); a new stereo and assorted electronics including the autopilot, to replace our Titusville frizzled ones and finally, a nice new radar to complete her ensemble. 

It's still a long way to the bath house

Bruce has not been spared beauty treatment either.  He sports new wheels (in a lovely grey to match his sun jacket) and will soon have a boarding ladder fitted.  The GS’s slithering seal impersonations (getting on/off Bruce from the water) inspired this addition.  Why can’t everyone be graceful like skindiving super-chick, Valerie Taylor?

Adds a whole new meaning to "outdoor dunny".
Photos of toilets?  OK, so we're excited to go composting.

From the First Mate’s perspective, nasty mould has been cleaned off woodwork; water tanks have been cleaned out and refilled (twice); a new freezer installed (at last, one that works!); another sewing machine (canvas work not quilting, darn!) has been added to the “fleet” – we have at least one each per boat now; nautical pictures have been hung jauntily on walls, and best of all, new, comfy mattresses installed.  Guests will appreciate the new luxe look in their aft cabin.    

Hooray!  New mattresses thanks to Dennis in Deltaville

This week’s major challenge is to drive (on the correct side of the road) to Richmond to renew our cruising permit… If not then it’s back to the boat to spend the rest of our sailing season growing veggies in our cockpit.  We’ll have lots of compost, you see.  Yes, the Captain actually convinced a local that’s what we were going to do with it….